Felt 2014 AR1
Moderator: robbosmans
I've had the hangar replaced once and checked and straightened right before my last race!
(which was a heartbreaker of a race by the way as we had a three-man break that stuck and then I flatted half-way through - eventually one of the others flatted so it was a solo win by several minutes - boo hoo!)
(which was a heartbreaker of a race by the way as we had a three-man break that stuck and then I flatted half-way through - eventually one of the others flatted so it was a solo win by several minutes - boo hoo!)
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Mize wrote:I'm getting some strange rear D behavior that I cannot reproduce in my stand. Lucky me it only happens (so far) in races, but it doesn't seem to cause real problems.
Basically it's a sound similar to sticky link and a jumpy shift (not quite complete). If I shift a bit or hammer the sound stops. My new LBS (not the original builder who messed up ever so much) is thinking there is excess friction on the cable and the rear D spring isn't as snappy as it should be. I've verified that the last section of cable tubing is NOT to SRAM spec (required to exit the barrel straight but the original LBS cut it too short so it exits the barrel at an angle). Any other ideas? Could anything about the internal routing (racer's cross) cause a symptom like this? FWIW this is SRAM Red 22. Any help appreciated.
The inner wire runs internally but there is no drag as a result. There is a cable stop on the downtube, a large radius guide under the BB that the cable must pass over (DO NOT run the wire over the BB shell in the frame, it must use the BB guide. Take care not to wind the cables around each other when running them in the frame.
If you used a frame like our F-series with external cable routing there would NOT be less housing, fewer ferrules or housing bends, or any difference in the amount of contact-causing friction on the cables themselves.
-Dave
Mize wrote:I've had the hangar replaced once and checked and straightened right before my last race!
(which was a heartbreaker of a race by the way as we had a three-man break that stuck and then I flatted half-way through - eventually one of the others flatted so it was a solo win by several minutes - boo hoo!)
Felt said that the hanger shouldn't be a problem but I noticed that it kept getting bent and didn't know what it was causing it.
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SuperDave wrote:Mize wrote:The inner wire runs internally but there is no drag as a result. There is a cable stop on the downtube, a large radius guide under the BB that the cable must pass over (DO NOT run the wire over the BB shell in the frame, it must use the BB guide. Take care not to wind the cables around each other when running them in the frame.
If you used a frame like our F-series with external cable routing there would NOT be less housing, fewer ferrules or housing bends, or any difference in the amount of contact-causing friction on the cables themselves.
-Dave
Right. I'm just wondering if maybe the first shop overlapped the cables internally (not wrapped but the high one went low and vice versa)?
Or perhaps just that improper barrel exit at the rear D is the issue. I'm in no way blaming the frame.
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Mize wrote:SuperDave wrote:Mize wrote:The inner wire runs internally but there is no drag as a result. There is a cable stop on the downtube, a large radius guide under the BB that the cable must pass over (DO NOT run the wire over the BB shell in the frame, it must use the BB guide. Take care not to wind the cables around each other when running them in the frame.
If you used a frame like our F-series with external cable routing there would NOT be less housing, fewer ferrules or housing bends, or any difference in the amount of contact-causing friction on the cables themselves.
-Dave
Right. I'm just wondering if maybe the first shop overlapped the cables internally (not wrapped but the high one went low and vice versa)?
Or perhaps just that improper barrel exit at the rear D is the issue. I'm in no way blaming the frame.
Perhaps this could be helpful. I realize the majority of this document is obvious but it makes for simple reference when servicing the bike.
http://www.feltbicycles.com/Resources/M ... _small.pdf
-Dave
So does the AR1 frame have the same 1k weave as the AR5? I understand a different process and blend of material is used in production but I'm curious of the aesthetic. I haven't found an up close photo of the AR1 yet. (which would be lovely if an owner wanted to contribute)
I'm thinking I've read the answer before but didn't like it so I'm trying to convince myself there's another answer.
Edit: d'oh, that's what I get for phone browsing
I'm thinking I've read the answer before but didn't like it so I'm trying to convince myself there's another answer.
Edit: d'oh, that's what I get for phone browsing
Last edited by Imaking20 on Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Krackor wrote:http://i.imgur.com/o7yuIv8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LHaHE6V.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ar0GCmf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MMGciM6.jpg
edit: Temporarily removed the images because they were enormous. How do I post small versions?
The roads are better, but still have some post-winter mess on them, so the bike's not as clean as it could be.
I used Jagwire Elite Links for brake and shifter cables. Instead of putting on the included rubber donuts, I slipped some black shrink wrap over the parts that might contact the frame.
It turns out I am actually getting some rear brake rub when out of the saddle. It's just a more subtle sound than I am used to so it took me a while to notice it. There's still space to open up the rear brake more, so maybe it's avoidable.
Elite Leggero bottle cage is on its way. It weighed in at 6580g without cages and pedals, so add 225g for Keo Blades and 15g for the cage and total weight should be just about 6820g.
I took the bike out today with a 15-25 mph wind. In crosswinds the bike was a bit of a handful, but not bad enough to require both hands always on the bars.
A quick look back at the previous page reveals these pictures which show the AR1 has the same 1k weave but in matt finish.
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Imaking20 wrote:So does the AR1 frame have the same 1k weave as the AR5? I understand a different process and blend of material is used in production but I'm curious of the aesthetic. I haven't found an up close photo of the AR1 yet. (which would be lovely if an owner wanted to contribute)
I'm thinking I've read the answer before but didn't like it so I'm trying to convince myself there's another answer.
AR1, 2, and 3 use 1kp
AR4 and AR5 use 3kp
AR FRD is something completely different altogether using Oxeon's magic TeXtreme stuff.
-SD
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Yeah I spotted that too. Hopefully the AR1's won't be far away either.
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