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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:04 am 
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On topic and off topic. The Avid Ultimate Shorty's are now on my bike. They work awesome. So far squeal free and a good pull had my rear tire locking up and skidding on dry pavement.

Does anyone know what size allen key is needed to change brake pads? A quick check and its smaller than anything I have.

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Posted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:04 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 8:13 am
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Question about Shorty, what is for users, the best setting to get a good brake ?
I mean what is the best configuration of stirrups
Should they be removed at the maximum or on the contrary as tightly as possible.
because i find my shorty have really not too much power ;-(


Some pitcures about your please ?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:16 pm 
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I've found that about 3 fingers of clearance between the tire and the bottom of the 'tri-dangle' works well for the Shorty Ultimates I run.

IIRC specs in the destructions say appx 30mm. (which works out to appx 3 fingers for me)

I run a combo of stock SRAM, Kool Stop Salmons, and Kool Stop carbon pads depending on what rims I'm running. Favorites are probably the Kool Stop Salmons for 'all round AL rim use.'

HTH

M


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:29 am 
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I put some CX 8.4s on my cross bike a few weeks back. I'd had FSA-K cantilevers with Kool Stop salmon pads. Even with stock pads the 8.4s are amazing. Wish I'd done it sooner. I brake later and less often. They are mated to a Red right and a Force left, used with Ksyrium ES wheels. I love the brakes. Not a ton of wheel clearance, but with some careful adjustment and true wheels, you can get the pull to be responsive and the brakes to not rub.

I really like the 8.4s, except now I can't stand cantis even on my commuter bike.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Anyone else find the 8.4's with SRAM levers to be very squishy?
I threw them on very quickly before the last race of the year and from the time the pad touched the rim to full lockup was a huge amount of travel on the lever
Any tips to cut this down? I'm using stock pads now


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:49 pm 
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I use mine with 2011 Red Shifters and new 8.4s, with stock pads, and new cables, housing.

I don't find them squishy, but I do find the movement so light and effortless that is seems like nothing is happening. There is no resistance. Don't know if this is what you'd term "squishy" or not. It took a bit of getting used to, but I don't mind it.

For comparison, I have some 105 9-sp on my other cross bike, mated to Tektro cantis and those are much harder to pull.

I have my own question though - I was recentering the pads on the front wheel/brake using this little hex head centering bolts. I was trying to turn one of them in, when it just started spinning. I took it out...and the bolt was chewing metal off the inside part and refused to go in. These are just a few months old, I wasn't using excessive force and have never had this problem.

Anyone else have this happen? I guess the bolt is harder metal than the piece? (I bet it has a name, but it's the first piece that goes on the break stud on the fork, looks to be separate from the arms). I'm hoping TRP can send me just this part, seems a bit silly to toss the entire front brake.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 5:01 pm 
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Location: Seattle, WA
@chrispino- Same setup as you, and mine engage pretty quickly. I don't find any issues with either skinny alu rims + stock pads & 21mm carbon rims + cork. I'm no expert, but maybe your pads are too far apart?

@nayr497- I had the same issue with the same part. It's the black 'plate' that holds the spring, right? I gave Tektro a call and they happily sent me a replacement part. If I recall correctly, the new part is more robust. No problems since, and I just try to be a bit more careful with the other 3 older parts.

JC

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:40 pm 
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I didn't like the amount of travel on Sram levers, even with the 8.4. But, the 8.4 feel awesome and work great on the newer Shimano levers (more cable pull).


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:22 pm 
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Sorry for little offtop, but...i have cx9 on my cross bike with shimano 105 (5700). Don't quite understand if its "new" shimano or "old". Anyway, brakes are great after cantis, but i feel like it is spongy, lever pull is too long for my likes. So i have to put pads really close to rim so rim needs to be perfect true. Some of you guys have both 8.4 and 9. So, the question, how much extra rim clearness wil i get with 8.4 with same pull ( in milimeters), or with same pad clearness how much will the lever pull reduce? Just want to know exactly, because i'm deciding to buy 8.4 or not. Is it worth it. Sorry for language.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:52 pm 
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You have the "new" shimano lever with 5700. So, you already have more cable pull. You'd gain a couple mm of clearance and the lever feel would be much more firm with the 8.4.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:27 pm 
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Briscoelab wrote:
You have the "new" shimano lever with 5700. So, you already have more cable pull. You'd gain a couple mm of clearance and the lever feel would be much more firm with the 8.4.

Ok, will buy them.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:09 am 
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Location: San Francisco Peninsula
SRAM Rival with CX8.4 checking in. Worlds better in power and modulation than the entry level Avid Shorty brakes they replaced.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:35 pm 
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So with shimano 105 5600 sti's (the ones with hidden gear cable routing) do I want the cx9 or 8.4?

They are £70 cheapest I can find in UK, can I do better for this price?

I'm fed up with really powerless cantis that I can't adjust any improvement into.

Bike (focus mares) use is just cx racing on generally grassy field courses of as England.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:42 pm 
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Location: Haines, AK - Temporarily
Milese wrote:
So with shimano 105 5600 sti's (the ones with hidden gear cable routing)


FWIW: 5700, not 5600, has the shift cable routing under the bar tape.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:58 pm 
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I thought that too, but peeled back the hood and it definately says 5600 on it. Maybe the bodies are the same part and I had some old stock at change over?

Not sure where that leaves me with picking brakes though, id quite like more clearance if possible!


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Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:58 pm 


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