Seatpost suggestions and fitting feedback

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CBJ
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by CBJ

After my first real fitting I have to buy a new seatpost with set back. Thinking about the 3T Dorico LTD as its on sale now. Any other suggestion that can compete with the weight and quality around 125 USD I should look at?

Its been kind of frustrating week as I now have to say goodbye to my beloved EC90 seatpost all blacked out post and my 3T 100mm Team Stealth stem. The fitter want me to run a 80mm with at least 12 degree upward or even more but its going to look crazy and I think a little warmer weather and more stretching will make that unnecessary. I know it sounds crazy get a fitting and ignore it.

For reference I ride a 2013 Tarmac S-works Keyline. Here is where what it looks like with the 80mm stem quickly installed from my mtb trail bike and where he want to seat (I have not ridden the bike yet post fitting):

Image

Saddle Height (Center of BB to Center top of Saddle) vertical: 790mm
Saddle tip to BB center (horizontal): 10cm behind BB
Saddle tip to Handlebar Center (horizontal): 545mm
Saddle to top of handlebar drop: 2cm
X/Y Handlebar Position: 45/72.4cm.

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DMF
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by DMF

Seat setback is somewhat linked to handlebar position. Keeping your current handlebar position but changing your setback will tighten your hip angle. If you were to listen to your fitter, it might be wise to revisit him/her later on when you can handle the lower drop and longer reach, and then reevaluate the seat setback.

richysticky
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by richysticky

^^ This :) and two words re colour of bits ..... vynil wrap :)

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CBJ
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by CBJ

DMF wrote:Seat setback is somewhat linked to handlebar position. Keeping your current handlebar position but changing your setback will tighten your hip angle. If you were to listen to your fitter, it might be wise to revisit him/her later on when you can handle the lower drop and longer reach, and then reevaluate the seat setback.


Follow up visit is already build into the fitting. The fitter does not want me to run more set back but to run more upward angle on the stem so I would loosen the hip angle. I my temporarily buy an adjustable stem so it will give me opportunity to test out different setups.

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fa63
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by fa63

Looks like you have long legs/femurs and/or short torso/arms. I have a similar build, and have come to terms with the fact that the only way race oriented frames such as the Tarmac will fit are with a big stack of spacers and a stem pointing up to the heavens :)

I wouldn't ignore the fitter's suggestions. I realized I produced a lot more power with more setback, but as previously mentioned the bars had to come up a bit as well to keep the hip angle open. Don't let aesthetics dictate your fit.

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CBJ
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by CBJ

Fa63 you are spot on and the way I am build. I actually might try to sell the bike and get a better fitting bike maybe a Roubaix or similar plus working on my flexibility which is a good thing no matter what I do.

Valbrona
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by Valbrona

The frame looks a good size for you, without of course the luxury of seeing you on it. At least you didn't go for anything bigger. Then it would have been a mighty long reach to the bars. Anything smaller and the seatpost would be over its limits. So be pleased that you have got what looks to be the best size for you.

In the context of 'general road riding' I have come across very few people with short enough femurs to need an inline seatpost, so I think you should have confidence in your fitter regarding saddle position.

Dunna worry about the suggestion of such a short stem. Fitters tend to err on the side of caution so as to reduce the possibility of their customers developing neck strains and so on. The position of the bars is less critical and is more open to interpretation. You might find that you can over time reduce the height of the bars and/or even a centimetre or two to the length of the stem as you build up core strength and become more accustomed to the bike.

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maggierose
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by maggierose

I'm not questioning the fitting because I've never seen you on the bike.

But... why does your fitter want to open hip angle with a short/high stem and then reduce it w/setback? No net change? Was there a goal in mind?

Are you racing? What was the purpose of the fit? Did the subject of shorter crank arms ever come up? Just curious...

Svetty
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by Svetty

Am somewhat bemused as the photo shows the saddle to be markedly nose down with a saddle to bar drop of at least 8cm (rather than the 2cm you quote) and a lot of seat post showing. I'd venture to suggest that your frame is a poor fit. You need a geometry with a shorter top tube and taller head tube. You could then fit a longer stem if needed to tweak your position. Just my ha'pennyworth.......

KWalker
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by KWalker

Run what he said and if it sucks, go back and have him modify accordingly.

Without some explanation as to why things were moved this thread is useless. He could have moved you back for lots of reasons including weight distribution (much more important than most fitters give it credit), some numbers that Retul or BG Fit spit out about where your knee is over the spindle (which is a bogus measurement point), or your pelvic rotation.

I'm always skeptical about people's flexibility claims when I see them unable to actually use their drops for an entire crit or more than a few minutes and also flexibility isn't the only sole determinant of bar drop. Moreover, functional flexibility is far different than some static stretches/tests. I know for one that with those tests I have far above average flexibility, but my drop, measured to the hoods, is only 123mm which at my height is fairly tame. Any lower and my hips start to rock and I gain some upper back flexion that actually puts my head and back higher even though my hands are lower.

IF you must, go read Steve Hogg's post about saddle height (oh so often is this the real culprit of fit problems), setback, and bar position.
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CBJ
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by CBJ

maggierose wrote:I'm not questioning the fitting because I've never seen you on the bike.

But... why does your fitter want to open hip angle with a short/high stem and then reduce it w/setback? No net change? Was there a goal in mind?

Are you racing? What was the purpose of the fit? Did the subject of shorter crank arms ever come up? Just curious...


The reason for me to get the fit was something was wrong as was getting bad cramping on top of my left foot where the foot flow into the leg this was turned into pain after the ride. I was pretty sure it was due to incorrect position on the bike. I think this was fixed with higher seat and seat further back. This is my pretty self on bike

Image

I am not racing. The purpose of the fit was to be comfortable and hopefully also faster and injury free. Never talked about shorter cranks.

Svetty I not sure if its pointing down but I totally agree a higher HT and shorter TT frame would be ideal. The bigger drop than suggested is because I do not have the stem on there he wants me to.

KWalker yes totally running with his recommendation and take it from there but really trying to get my head around the fit I better understand what is going on and how I am supposed to feel on the bike. I come from a mtb background and have mainly ridden down hill before turning to road too not too long ago where fit is so much more important so there is a learning curve.

KWalker
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by KWalker

You need a dynamic video at or above threshold to really assess. Sitting there on the bike and/or pictures show just 1 frame of a static motion and don't reveal any insights into muscle contractions or stability.

I'd read Hogg's articles I mentioned. They're a good starting point for establishing fit parameters that function with how you operate. As I said I have incredible lower body flexibility, but can't run the drop associated with that from years of shoulder issues from weightlifting. Also, at higher outputs, which fitters do not usually watch you at, my hip stability greatly diminishes with the seat height that BG fit and Retul recommend. Both put my seat 5mm-10mm higher than I can comfortably ride it, 1cm further forward, and my bars lower. It never worked and my handling sucked.

I will say that like others, I agree that its not super common that 0 offset posts are truly needed. This doesn't mean a fit with one is bad- I know quite a few people that use them especially on bikes with slack STAs or on larger bikes. I ride the same seat height as you, but about 15mm less setback and I use a setback post albeit the rails are not slammed to the back super pro bro style.
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CBJ
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by CBJ

That was the best I could do in the kitchen yesterday :-)

Not sure why we are talking about zero off set post. I had this post on the bike as the reached seem right before the seat was raised and moved back. I don't think there is any doubt I need the seat further back.

I am very close to buy a Roubaix today and sell the Tarmac. Taller HT 190mm vs 160mm. I still have the same TT length but I can just go with a 80mm stem and it may actually make it handle better than a longer stem.

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Rick
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by Rick

Back to the original question: "Thinking about the 3T Dorico LTD as its on sale now. Any other suggestion that can compete with the weight and quality around 125 USD I should look at?"

Thomson Masterpiece Setback. It has a much better saddle clamp system. I had the Dorico Team, and it is a little finicky.

My Thomson is 168 grams, cut to about 280mm length and with Ti bolts. (31.6mm diam.)

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CBJ
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by CBJ

That is super light. Not sure if I am crazy about how the bend look on the post though.

Call me crazy but I just bought this:

Image

Almost brand new. Should be able to sell the Tarmac for the same I got the the Roubaix for.

by Weenie


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