TRP CX 8.4 or Avid Shorty Ultimate?
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I've found that about 3 fingers of clearance between the tire and the bottom of the 'tri-dangle' works well for the Shorty Ultimates I run.
IIRC specs in the destructions say appx 30mm. (which works out to appx 3 fingers for me)
I run a combo of stock SRAM, Kool Stop Salmons, and Kool Stop carbon pads depending on what rims I'm running. Favorites are probably the Kool Stop Salmons for 'all round AL rim use.'
HTH
M
IIRC specs in the destructions say appx 30mm. (which works out to appx 3 fingers for me)
I run a combo of stock SRAM, Kool Stop Salmons, and Kool Stop carbon pads depending on what rims I'm running. Favorites are probably the Kool Stop Salmons for 'all round AL rim use.'
HTH
M
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I put some CX 8.4s on my cross bike a few weeks back. I'd had FSA-K cantilevers with Kool Stop salmon pads. Even with stock pads the 8.4s are amazing. Wish I'd done it sooner. I brake later and less often. They are mated to a Red right and a Force left, used with Ksyrium ES wheels. I love the brakes. Not a ton of wheel clearance, but with some careful adjustment and true wheels, you can get the pull to be responsive and the brakes to not rub.
I really like the 8.4s, except now I can't stand cantis even on my commuter bike.
I really like the 8.4s, except now I can't stand cantis even on my commuter bike.
A good day becomes a better day with a bicycle ride.
Anyone else find the 8.4's with SRAM levers to be very squishy?
I threw them on very quickly before the last race of the year and from the time the pad touched the rim to full lockup was a huge amount of travel on the lever
Any tips to cut this down? I'm using stock pads now
I threw them on very quickly before the last race of the year and from the time the pad touched the rim to full lockup was a huge amount of travel on the lever
Any tips to cut this down? I'm using stock pads now
I use mine with 2011 Red Shifters and new 8.4s, with stock pads, and new cables, housing.
I don't find them squishy, but I do find the movement so light and effortless that is seems like nothing is happening. There is no resistance. Don't know if this is what you'd term "squishy" or not. It took a bit of getting used to, but I don't mind it.
For comparison, I have some 105 9-sp on my other cross bike, mated to Tektro cantis and those are much harder to pull.
I have my own question though - I was recentering the pads on the front wheel/brake using this little hex head centering bolts. I was trying to turn one of them in, when it just started spinning. I took it out...and the bolt was chewing metal off the inside part and refused to go in. These are just a few months old, I wasn't using excessive force and have never had this problem.
Anyone else have this happen? I guess the bolt is harder metal than the piece? (I bet it has a name, but it's the first piece that goes on the break stud on the fork, looks to be separate from the arms). I'm hoping TRP can send me just this part, seems a bit silly to toss the entire front brake.
I don't find them squishy, but I do find the movement so light and effortless that is seems like nothing is happening. There is no resistance. Don't know if this is what you'd term "squishy" or not. It took a bit of getting used to, but I don't mind it.
For comparison, I have some 105 9-sp on my other cross bike, mated to Tektro cantis and those are much harder to pull.
I have my own question though - I was recentering the pads on the front wheel/brake using this little hex head centering bolts. I was trying to turn one of them in, when it just started spinning. I took it out...and the bolt was chewing metal off the inside part and refused to go in. These are just a few months old, I wasn't using excessive force and have never had this problem.
Anyone else have this happen? I guess the bolt is harder metal than the piece? (I bet it has a name, but it's the first piece that goes on the break stud on the fork, looks to be separate from the arms). I'm hoping TRP can send me just this part, seems a bit silly to toss the entire front brake.
A good day becomes a better day with a bicycle ride.
@chrispino- Same setup as you, and mine engage pretty quickly. I don't find any issues with either skinny alu rims + stock pads & 21mm carbon rims + cork. I'm no expert, but maybe your pads are too far apart?
@nayr497- I had the same issue with the same part. It's the black 'plate' that holds the spring, right? I gave Tektro a call and they happily sent me a replacement part. If I recall correctly, the new part is more robust. No problems since, and I just try to be a bit more careful with the other 3 older parts.
JC
@nayr497- I had the same issue with the same part. It's the black 'plate' that holds the spring, right? I gave Tektro a call and they happily sent me a replacement part. If I recall correctly, the new part is more robust. No problems since, and I just try to be a bit more careful with the other 3 older parts.
JC
"If it ain't broken, it could be lighter"
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I didn't like the amount of travel on Sram levers, even with the 8.4. But, the 8.4 feel awesome and work great on the newer Shimano levers (more cable pull).
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Sorry for little offtop, but...i have cx9 on my cross bike with shimano 105 (5700). Don't quite understand if its "new" shimano or "old". Anyway, brakes are great after cantis, but i feel like it is spongy, lever pull is too long for my likes. So i have to put pads really close to rim so rim needs to be perfect true. Some of you guys have both 8.4 and 9. So, the question, how much extra rim clearness wil i get with 8.4 with same pull ( in milimeters), or with same pad clearness how much will the lever pull reduce? Just want to know exactly, because i'm deciding to buy 8.4 or not. Is it worth it. Sorry for language.
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You have the "new" shimano lever with 5700. So, you already have more cable pull. You'd gain a couple mm of clearance and the lever feel would be much more firm with the 8.4.
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Briscoelab wrote:You have the "new" shimano lever with 5700. So, you already have more cable pull. You'd gain a couple mm of clearance and the lever feel would be much more firm with the 8.4.
Ok, will buy them.
SRAM Rival with CX8.4 checking in. Worlds better in power and modulation than the entry level Avid Shorty brakes they replaced.
So with shimano 105 5600 sti's (the ones with hidden gear cable routing) do I want the cx9 or 8.4?
They are £70 cheapest I can find in UK, can I do better for this price?
I'm fed up with really powerless cantis that I can't adjust any improvement into.
Bike (focus mares) use is just cx racing on generally grassy field courses of as England.
They are £70 cheapest I can find in UK, can I do better for this price?
I'm fed up with really powerless cantis that I can't adjust any improvement into.
Bike (focus mares) use is just cx racing on generally grassy field courses of as England.
I thought that too, but peeled back the hood and it definately says 5600 on it. Maybe the bodies are the same part and I had some old stock at change over?
Not sure where that leaves me with picking brakes though, id quite like more clearance if possible!
Not sure where that leaves me with picking brakes though, id quite like more clearance if possible!
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