road disc frame sets
Moderator: robbosmans
Three pages of comment on Road disc...
Raise your hand if you've got a few hundred miles on it.
The tech works.
The tech works better in both dry and wet than any other braking.
The rotating weight isnt nearly as notable (at the hub) as the performance gains, and that goes TRIPLE for carbon tubulars... The feel of Hydraulic is a LOT better than any cabled system.
There are other factors, but there's virtually no debating the performance...
Raise your hand if you've got a few hundred miles on it.
The tech works.
The tech works better in both dry and wet than any other braking.
The rotating weight isnt nearly as notable (at the hub) as the performance gains, and that goes TRIPLE for carbon tubulars... The feel of Hydraulic is a LOT better than any cabled system.
There are other factors, but there's virtually no debating the performance...
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My hand is up. Road discs since 2008. technology and weight have significantly improved since then.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40430&hilit=morati
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40430&hilit=morati
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Well that Sarto and C59 frameset won't be cheap. I need something a little more friendly to my budget. This thread was never meant to be a debate about which is better rim brake or disc brake just a thread for frame idea. It seems a custom steel frame is the way I will go.
i know you mentioned something about the hongfu disc frame not being up to spec for you on page two - but did you check the 2014 model? the 58cm has a 581tt, with a 73deg st and 73.5deg ht. obviously its not 100% perfect but it certainly would be quite cost effective vs a custom steel frame (at least double the cost) toss a 130mm stem on there and tweak your setback to get your contact points and you'd be good to go id imagine.
just my $0.02.
best of luck with your search
just my $0.02.
best of luck with your search
Below my disc bike which has been on the road since October. I think it must have cost about 20% of the gorgeous bikes pictured above, being based as it is on a Chinese AC024 CX frame and some components carried forward from a previous bike. Bit of a budget weenie project. It was intended as an all-weather bike and as I've just come back from 43km in 5C and light rain I can say it's fulfilling that purpose admirably.
The brakes are excellent. As someone else pointed out, modulation is a strong point. So, surprisingly, is silence. Rim brakes in winter round here grate horribly against the rim because of road grit. That hasn't been an issue with discs. They are not immune to water, it slows the response but they get there. In the dry they have a lot of power. They're 160mm front and rear. I think there is certainly an argument for dropping to 140mm, at least for the rear.
I'm now pretty sure discs will take over for road within the next 5 years. The delay won't be the brake technology, it'll be the industry tooling up for mass production of disc groupsets, frames, hubs, rims and so on. It's a huge opportunity for the industry, no question, but the bikes will be good.
As for the pro ranks, Wiggins might have appreciated discs on those wet Giro descents last year. I don't buy that they'll slow anyone down in bunch racing.
The brakes are excellent. As someone else pointed out, modulation is a strong point. So, surprisingly, is silence. Rim brakes in winter round here grate horribly against the rim because of road grit. That hasn't been an issue with discs. They are not immune to water, it slows the response but they get there. In the dry they have a lot of power. They're 160mm front and rear. I think there is certainly an argument for dropping to 140mm, at least for the rear.
I'm now pretty sure discs will take over for road within the next 5 years. The delay won't be the brake technology, it'll be the industry tooling up for mass production of disc groupsets, frames, hubs, rims and so on. It's a huge opportunity for the industry, no question, but the bikes will be good.
As for the pro ranks, Wiggins might have appreciated discs on those wet Giro descents last year. I don't buy that they'll slow anyone down in bunch racing.
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
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Only just finished building it, so will test ride it this week. No funny curly bars, which may offend the sensibilities of some readers...
007 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
001 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
004 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
mattr wrote:Oh, and FWIW, I'm neither pro, or anti disc brakes. I'd just like to see someone admit that the only reason they are coming (at racing/UCI/NGB level) is so that manufacturers can make more money.
Which so far, is the only argument that seems to stack up to any serious poking.
This
Maddog2, definitely looking forward to your review on the Hongfu.
The bike looks sweet, very clean.
Too bad all the cables aren't internal.
I'm thinking of doing my name on my downtube since my old 1998 bike's stickers are flaking off.
Is your lettering painted or stickers? Below clearcoat?
Back on topic.
I am now thinking newcomers will buy disc road bikes just because they look less cluttered.
Fashion is a big part of cycling, the manufacturers will sell this new tech no problem when they hide the majority of cabling.
The bike looks sweet, very clean.
Too bad all the cables aren't internal.
I'm thinking of doing my name on my downtube since my old 1998 bike's stickers are flaking off.
Is your lettering painted or stickers? Below clearcoat?
Back on topic.
I am now thinking newcomers will buy disc road bikes just because they look less cluttered.
Fashion is a big part of cycling, the manufacturers will sell this new tech no problem when they hide the majority of cabling.
they are just stickers on the painted frame. There's no lacquer over the top as I stuck them on myself, nut they look fine.
I could modify the frame to enable internal routing of the rear brake hose, and it's something I'll chew over in the future. It would need two new holes drilling/dremelling; one on the downtube and one one the rear left chainstay but it should be possible without too much trouble.
another pic:
009 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
010 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
I could modify the frame to enable internal routing of the rear brake hose, and it's something I'll chew over in the future. It would need two new holes drilling/dremelling; one on the downtube and one one the rear left chainstay but it should be possible without too much trouble.
another pic:
009 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
010 by reggiegasket, on Flickr
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I'm considering the HongFu FM079 as my next rig but have a few questions for owners.
What is the fork steerer and rake?
Any idea if the ENVE Road disc fork will work?
Can someone confirm the BB spec?
Ultegra 11 Cranks work?
Go with 160F and 140mm rear rotors or dual 160's (will they clear the rear?)
Headset spec?
I've narrowed it down to a 58cm based on the geo. Would like to do an all ENVE cockpit, post and the new 3.4 disc smart system wheels with a full Ultegra Di2 11 speed.
Any foreseeable issues?
Thanks!
What is the fork steerer and rake?
Any idea if the ENVE Road disc fork will work?
Can someone confirm the BB spec?
Ultegra 11 Cranks work?
Go with 160F and 140mm rear rotors or dual 160's (will they clear the rear?)
Headset spec?
I've narrowed it down to a 58cm based on the geo. Would like to do an all ENVE cockpit, post and the new 3.4 disc smart system wheels with a full Ultegra Di2 11 speed.
Any foreseeable issues?
Thanks!
carbonLORD.com
I can only comment on the 166disc but I'd be fairly confident these are the answers:
What is the fork steerer and rake? Carbon 1 1/8 -1 1/2 tapered, and don't know the rake but can measure if you want
Any idea if the ENVE Road disc fork will work? Should do.
Can someone confirm the BB spec? I run BSA threaded but you may be able to go BB30, though not sure why ;o)
Ultegra 11 Cranks work? On BSA yes
Go with 160F and 140mm rear rotors or dual 160's (will they clear the rear?) The 166 is based on 140 at BOTH ends. I've spaced out the front fork to allow 160. Not sure if you could fit 160 at the rear but I can check.
Headset spec? They (HongFu) supply a 1 1/8-1 1/2 tapered headset ('Neco H373') which I think is 45x45 off the top of my head see http://www.necoparts.com/Products.aspx? ... =8&pid=457
What is the fork steerer and rake? Carbon 1 1/8 -1 1/2 tapered, and don't know the rake but can measure if you want
Any idea if the ENVE Road disc fork will work? Should do.
Can someone confirm the BB spec? I run BSA threaded but you may be able to go BB30, though not sure why ;o)
Ultegra 11 Cranks work? On BSA yes
Go with 160F and 140mm rear rotors or dual 160's (will they clear the rear?) The 166 is based on 140 at BOTH ends. I've spaced out the front fork to allow 160. Not sure if you could fit 160 at the rear but I can check.
Headset spec? They (HongFu) supply a 1 1/8-1 1/2 tapered headset ('Neco H373') which I think is 45x45 off the top of my head see http://www.necoparts.com/Products.aspx? ... =8&pid=457
- carbonLORD
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maddog 2 wrote:I can only comment on the 166disc but I'd be fairly confident these are the answers:
What is the fork steerer and rake? Carbon 1 1/8 -1 1/2 tapered, and don't know the rake but can measure if you want
Any idea if the ENVE Road disc fork will work? Should do.
Can someone confirm the BB spec? I run BSA threaded but you may be able to go BB30, though not sure why ;o)
Ultegra 11 Cranks work? On BSA yes
Go with 160F and 140mm rear rotors or dual 160's (will they clear the rear?) The 166 is based on 140 at BOTH ends. I've spaced out the front fork to allow 160. Not sure if you could fit 160 at the rear but I can check.
Headset spec? They (HongFu) supply a 1 1/8-1 1/2 tapered headset ('Neco H373') which I think is 45x45 off the top of my head see http://www.necoparts.com/Products.aspx? ... =8&pid=457
Thanks MD.
I should be able to manage the rake and sounds like BSA is the way to go on this one since I'd like an all Ultegra group on it.
Cheers!
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