Campagnolo Over Torque and BB30/PF30

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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beeatnik
Posts: 321
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:26 pm

by beeatnik

A little confused by Over Torque. Campagnolo says you need their Over Torque cups to run these cranks. As I understand it, the difference between UT and OT is the spindle width, length and placement of bearings. It appears that OT is not "true" BB30/PF30. That being the case, I wouldn't be able to run them on my CAAD10 without the OT cups (BB), yes? Would love it if I could just install the OT cranks and keep my SRAM ceramic bearings and not have to mess w/ my current Q factor.


http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/gro...a_catid_12.jsp

So, is OT Campag's version of Rotor's 3D+?

by Weenie



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bikerjulio
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Location: Welland, Ontario

by bikerjulio

keep my SRAM ceramic bearings and not have to mess w/ my current Q factor.


There is a lot of misunderstanding around about Q factor. It is the distance between the planes where the pedal spindle contacts the crank arm.

It is unrelated to BB design or bearing location.

For a great many years manufacturers have kept this within a couple of mm, for the simple reason that the basic frame geometry limitations which require clearance of the crank arm to the chainstay, and clearance for the shoe heel at the back of the pedal stroke, have not changed.

Campagnolo for instance has kept a constant Q factor from at least the days of C Record/square taper right up to today. Likewise with Shimano.

Because some BB designs are wider than others, the shape and angle of the crank arm varies to make up the difference, but the Q factor remains constant.

For instance SRAM's BB30 and GXP cranks have identical Q factors.

There IS some difference in ankle clearance to the crank centre at the forward pedal position, though not as much as you might think
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

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madcow
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by madcow

Beatnik,

We put it onto a true bb30 frame yesterday and used the stock bb30 kit that was already in the frame to do it. Basically the crank slid in, a couple spacers went on and then the preload adjsuter and it was done. No reason you can't keep you stock bottom bracket in the frame, you just need to get the Campag spacers.

Basically think of the Campag crank as a steel spindle version of the Thm M3. 30mm spindle for 90mm system width, so basically a universal fit crank. It seems to work fine with Thm, Lightning, Extralite, Zipp bb's and cups so it should be able to fit just about any frame standard on the market. So far we've come up with fits for BB86, BB90, BBRight, BBRight Direct fit, OSBB and Italian threaded.

deek
Posts: 406
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:32 pm

by deek

beeatnik wrote:So, is OT Campag's version of Rotor's 3D+?


Essentially, yes.

Pros of this system: Generally lighter on BSA frames than a 24mm spindle, fits nearly all frames (Trek's BB90 requires incredibly small bearings which I'd imagine don't last very long), easier for manufacturers to design
Cons of this system: reduced ankle clearance, increased weight on BB30/PF30 frames due to longer spindle and more spacers, decreased sealing on the inside of the BB

beeatnik
Posts: 321
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:26 pm

by beeatnik

bikerjulio wrote:
keep my SRAM ceramic bearings and not have to mess w/ my current Q factor.




Because some BB designs are wider than others, the shape and angle of the crank arm varies to make up the difference, but the Q factor remains constant.

For instance SRAM's BB30 and GXP cranks have identical Q factors.

There IS some difference in ankle clearance to the crank centre at the forward pedal position, though not as much as you might think


Yep, forgot about that. Appreciate the clarification. Ankle clearance is what I was thinking.

And thanks for the great info, Madcow.

by Weenie


uraqt
Posts: 811
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am

by uraqt

Madcow,

I am worried about the installation, you said it was easy? From reading the directions it looks like it 100's of steps : )

and

Do you think the NDS interface will hold up after many bike swaps?

Thanks

C

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