Colnago C59 - Mapei - Build pics now added
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I said it before... the whole seatcluster/seatpost area looks like it's just been dipped in white paint. It screams for a black seatpost at the very least. And while you're at it, throw on a black Campy seatcollar clamp. Much nicer than the stock colnago clamps. What is it you don't like about the bars? The fact there is virtually no room to adjust the angle of the flat spot, etc., because it's all integrated, or the shape of the bars in the drops, with the "ergo" bends. From the pic, unless you've moved the levers down a bit, there seems to be way too much upward reach you have to do from the drops to get to the levers. Have you tried some classic shaped bars... Campy levers work really well on them and you'd notice much less reach to the drop. However, where the hoods end up would be significantly lower than what you have. Can't go wrong with the look however. Go black post, black stem, and black bars with black tape. Try to stay with one brand for the cockpit for a cohesive look. Offerings from either 3T or Deda should fit nicely. If 3T, I'd opt for something other than their bulky carbon stem, go for the ARX Team or something. Check out their bar shapes... the Rotundo's are the classic shape. If you go for the Deda option... they have some nice seatposts now that would work along with a Zero 100 Serviso Corsa stem and some Newton Shallow bars (classic). For whatever reason, I do not find the Deda RHM shape very nice and actually gave away the Presas I had for sometime before I switched back to a classic bar with a nice flat spot with enough room to from my entire hand on it. The only thing about the Shallow Deda Newton is it's pretty shallow, say compared to even the 3T Rotundo.
So, having said all that, bars are a pretty personal thing, but you asked for suggestions. Glad that even though you probably spent some coin for the custom paint on the bars, not to mention the bars themselves, that you are willing to admit when they just don't work and not sacrifice function for aesthetics. Personally, I'd like the look more with a standard stem and bar than that one anyway. For me at least, nothing beats the classic shape for feel and having the right position for wherever you might be, on the tops of the bars or on the hoods or in the drops.
So, having said all that, bars are a pretty personal thing, but you asked for suggestions. Glad that even though you probably spent some coin for the custom paint on the bars, not to mention the bars themselves, that you are willing to admit when they just don't work and not sacrifice function for aesthetics. Personally, I'd like the look more with a standard stem and bar than that one anyway. For me at least, nothing beats the classic shape for feel and having the right position for wherever you might be, on the tops of the bars or on the hoods or in the drops.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
The problem is not the bend or lever position (which has been modified) but rather the flat section of the top of the bars. I don't like the width or the angle which is not adjustable, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
I'm thinking deda, I do like the 3t arx II in stealth but rotunda are a little deep for me and the others I'm not keen on the shape of.
I'm thinking deda, I do like the 3t arx II in stealth but rotunda are a little deep for me and the others I'm not keen on the shape of.
Yup, I was thinking exactly like thp just pictured above, except for the bars. The ones pictured above are the anatomic version, and are deeper than the 3T rotundos I believe. I'd still go with the deda shallow newtons, especially now that you've said the rotundos may be a little deep for you. The newton shallows are significantly less deep with less reach as well. Done, done, and done.
I totally get what you say about the flat spot on top. With my Presas I had to have them exactly right and even then the edge of the flat spot tended to bug me in my lower palms. Another reason I like a round cross section on top, as it allows a little adjustment either way and it will always feel the same. One bar with a flatter top I've really liked the shape of however is the FSA compact handlebar. Even though they don't really have a "flat" spot in the drops, the curve is slight and I've liked the shape. I also was fine with the flattish part on top. And the drop is only 125mm plus they have a bit of a flare out from the hoods to the drops. Very nice feel to them, if you don't mind putting FSA on your Colnago. I don't have them on any of my bikes but have put them on others and to a man, or woman, they have all really liked them so far. I would certainly choose this shape over the Deda RHM shape, but again, personal preference here.
I totally get what you say about the flat spot on top. With my Presas I had to have them exactly right and even then the edge of the flat spot tended to bug me in my lower palms. Another reason I like a round cross section on top, as it allows a little adjustment either way and it will always feel the same. One bar with a flatter top I've really liked the shape of however is the FSA compact handlebar. Even though they don't really have a "flat" spot in the drops, the curve is slight and I've liked the shape. I also was fine with the flattish part on top. And the drop is only 125mm plus they have a bit of a flare out from the hoods to the drops. Very nice feel to them, if you don't mind putting FSA on your Colnago. I don't have them on any of my bikes but have put them on others and to a man, or woman, they have all really liked them so far. I would certainly choose this shape over the Deda RHM shape, but again, personal preference here.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Go with 3T ARX Stealth, Ergonsum LTD and the same post as you have but black. My cents.
http://www.3tcycling.com/roadbars/ergosum
http://www.3tcycling.com/stems/arx
The Colnago original post is made to be comfortable. Not the lightest but it looks good. (191 gr cut)
http://www.3tcycling.com/roadbars/ergosum
http://www.3tcycling.com/stems/arx
The Colnago original post is made to be comfortable. Not the lightest but it looks good. (191 gr cut)
Have gone with a colnago Nero post, 3T arx II team stealth stem and team stealth rotundo bars (not as deep as I had thought)
Hoping I can source a black seat clamp locally.
Also ordered some dark label shamals so I don't need to ride the boras when the weather looks dodgy.
Hoping I can source a black seat clamp locally.
Also ordered some dark label shamals so I don't need to ride the boras when the weather looks dodgy.
Good choices, however... not sure about the reasoning behind the Shamals. It's a pain to change out your brake pads whenit looks like it might rain and you want to ride the Shamals to "save" your Boras. What are you saving them for... a rainy day? . Ride 'em. And a change in pads and rims usually means a bit of adjustment to fit the rim perfectly, although since they're both Campy rims you may be fine. I do find I have to toe in the pads for the carbon rims more than I do for the alloy rims, and I hate riding anything that's not perfectly adjusted. So, in theory it all sounds good to swap pads and rims between carbon and alloy, depending on the weather. But in reality it's a pain. And let's not even talk about switching between wheels of different rim widths, which at least you wouldn't have to worry about that with the Boras and the Shamals. May not be a big deal to some, but nice stuff should always be adjusted right, otherwise what's the point.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
More a case of weekday wheels and weekend wheels. The shamals and boras need little adjustment if any between them, in my experience, and changing the pads and toe once a week I can handle. Heading out in the dark or coming home in the dark during the week I'd rather be on something I'm not bummed about if I hit a pot hole. The boras I have been riding exclusively for nearly 3 months now, I just don't really want to ride them in the wet, silly maybe, but I like to keep my stuff mint, even if rain doesn't really do anything.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Understandable. But I'd still hate to get home after going out for a few drinks on a Friday after work knowing I had to change out the pads before a Saturday ride.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ