Dura Ace 9000 FD compatibility

[DMF]

Although, I wonder, what the hell is the purpose of the (really, really, really loose fitting!) black, soft plastic, piece of crap on the inner cage of both FD-6800 and FD-9000, ...it seems really sketchy, doesn't fit very well, just snapped on there with some hook-type clips and barely hangs on.

What was Shimano thinking?!

Sure there might be something along the lines of less noisy shifting, but the 'workmanship' isn't even Sora/Tiagra level...

On another note, you need to pull about 6-6,5mm of cable to make a 6800/9000 shift on a Shimano 10s crankset (4500 in this trial)

[liketoride]

but i was wondering if anyone has gone out on their own and tried the 9000fd on the sram products yet?

So last week I figured it was once again time to be the lab rat and purchased two FD-9000 Braze-On derailleurs and over the weekend I installed them on the wife's road and cross bikes. Both bikes have DA 7900 shifters and derailleurs with the road bike, a 2010 TCR Advanced SL ISP has an FSA K-Force Light compact SRM and 50/34 chainrings and setup was straight forward although I found I had to be spot on with tuning to avoid chain rub. The cross bike has a Hollowgram SRM running 44/34 chainrings and was a little more work to setup due to the top routed cable run for the front mech and with the cable looping down to a pulley then back up, it took a bit more finesse but it also works well.

So now i would like to know if the pull is the same for the 12-13 reds as it is for the 7900? I think i might just go for it and i will see for my self. By the way how is the shifting? does it work well is it okay? i would be using it on 53-39 extralite rings. thanks.

[liketoride]

on a side note how do you think the 9000 would work with powercordz as that is what i am really having problems with on my FD? The cable keeps slipping, and then i tighten the screw and after a couple of times it cuts the cordz and i cannot use them anymore. thanks

[DMF]

This loops the cable over a pin below and slightly to the left of the pinch bolt, then routes it beneath the bolt and finally pinches the cable in a fairly short groove to the right of the pinch bolt. So when you tighten the pinch bolt clockwise, it will try to push the cable out of the groove (instead of pulling it further into the groove as it would if it would've been on the pinch bolts left side).

It's difficult not to fray cables when you're pushing them together lengthwise rather than pulling them lengthwise. Previous Shimano RD's mounted the cable to the left side of the bolt, much smarter IMHO.

[ms6073]

By the way how is the shifting? does it work well is it okay?

The answer to that question is somewhat subjective there is not a lot of terrain in our area so once in the big chainring, we tend to stay in the big ring until finished.

[liketoride]

go it, well when you get a chance to test them i would really love to know what you think. thanks.

[Berg]

Better late than never, here is the long-term update I promised, regarding using FD-9000 together with my Campagnolo Record 11s group.

I realize some brand purist frown upon such as mixed marriage, but for me it makes sense to pick the best from each brand and combine if possible. And IMHO the weak link in Campa group is the FD, which is why I decided to try the Shimano FD9000.

In any case, after about 2200 km, here is my conclusion:
It works absolutely perfectly! Best front shifting I have ever had. Period.

Every shift has been smooth both up and down, and have not had a single missed shift or any other issues.
This is with Stronglight 11 chainrings, in 34-50 and 36-50 combo. The 36-50 is of course a little smoother, because of the smaller jump, but 34-50 also worked perfectly for a week in the Mallorca mountains.

As I wrote in the original post:
It takes 3 clicks to shift up, and the first click I can use for trim while on small ring.
On big chainring, there is only a bit of rub on derailleur when chain is all crossed up - a gear I would never use anyway.

One thing though: I removed the small black plastic piece inside the derailleur cage (as "DMF" has pointed out, it is low quality and fits very poorly!) as it didn't do any good at all!

Hurray for good FD shifting

[ms6073]

go it, well when you get a chance to test them i would really love to know what you think. thanks.

Over the weekend, I swapped the FD-7900 for an FD-9000 as well got a set of the new Dura Ace 9000 brake and shift cables for my TCR Advanced SL. The bike has a BB86 bottom bracket and is setup with an SRM K-Force with 53/39 FSA 'DA' 10-speed rings, the new style FSA Ceramic press-fit adapters, DA RD-7900 derailleur with Tiso ceramic jockey pulleys, and a Dura Ace CS-7900 12-23 cassette. After swapping out the derailleur and installing the new cables, I initially had issues getting the new derailleur adjusted as the tension spring on the inside of the derailleur was resting on the seat tube preventing proper inner throw adjustment, consequently derailleur rub in the big ring and 2 largest rear cogs. I needed to alter the chain line of the chainrings to get better adjustment range of the derailleur, but moving them out ~2-3mm by adding a spacer on the drive side would impose to much preload of the wave spring and omitting the wave spring would eliminate preload and allow lateral movement of the spindle. Since the K-Force uses a wave spring washer similar to the Hollowgram, I decided to move the wave spring from the non-drive to the drive side, added an AmClass .5mm cassette spacer to the free hub and viola, spacing issues resolved, better derailleur adjustment, and only a very slight rub on the big-big combo and no rub for the remainder of the range. Next up I think I will try swapping out our RD-7900 rear derailleurs for the RD-9000 thus bringing the bikes another step closer to full DA 9000 groups.

[KB]

I have a bike with full DA 9000 apart from the chainset. Fitted the 12/28 cassette; great shifting.

I'm currently building up another steel bike (Enigma) with a mixture of SRAM Force, Red, Rival. This is a 10-speed configuration with a Dale BB30 SISL chainset.

So, it got me thinking about whether I could run a 10-speed cassette on the 9000 so I didn't have to mess with changing cassettes until I eventually change everything to 11-speed.

In my LBS they dropped a DA 12/27 10-speed cassette on to my Mavic wheels and see how if it would work. We were amazed how nicely it worked.

Seems like another instance where the manufacturer states it can't be done when in fact it does!!!

[mitchgixer6]

Although, I wonder, what the hell is the purpose of the (really, really, really loose fitting!) black, soft plastic, piece of crap on the inner cage of both FD-6800 and FD-9000, ...it seems really sketchy, doesn't fit very well, just snapped on there with some hook-type clips and barely hangs on.

What was Shimano thinking?!

Sure there might be something along the lines of less noisy shifting, but the 'workmanship' isn't even Sora/Tiagra level...

On another note, you need to pull about 6-6,5mm of cable to make a 6800/9000 shift on a Shimano 10s crankset (4500 in this trial)

+1 on this. What exactly is the point of that plastic strip? I've just had a look at my 6800 FD (not fitted yet) and it's a really bad fit, I can press it in about 1mm with my finger then it springs back as the clips aren't anywhere near the correct position. I can see it causing more problems than it's meant to solve.

I take it there's not harm in just taking it off?

Also noticed in the box there are 2 small square adhesive pads, aluminium in colour. What are they for?

[goodboyr]

Theres a dealers manual on the shimano site that describes what the purpose of those aluminum stick in plates. Having said that, and observing that you haven't used them in your install, means your FD is not installed correctly (probably).

[FourRings]

The aluminum "pad" is meant to be fixed to your frame under the FD mount. There are 2 versions with slightly different shapes. Pick the one that best fits your frame. The pad's purpose is to provide a solid surface for the cant adjustment screw. Generally, FD cant is ususally "eyeballed", with the starting point being the outer cage aligned parallel with the big ring. The cant adjustment screw on the 9000 allows this adjustment, and subsequent changes, to be done (perhaps) a bit more precisely. IMO, the pad isn't necessary to correctly set-up the 9000, but it may help.
There are several good videos on the web showing how to adjust the 9000 FD.

[mitchgixer6]

Theres a dealers manual on the shimano site that describes what the purpose of those aluminum stick in plates. Having said that, and observing that you haven't used them in your install, means your FD is not installed correctly (probably).

I've not fitted my groupset yet so all's good!

I don't know if it's because it's a new groupset or not, but there was very little literature included with the parts. Normally Shimano give you loads of info on how to fit the bits but not this time. If anyone can link to the dealer manuals I'd be much obliged. I've got a braze on FD so does the pad go behind the screw?

I've also got a bag of cable ends (ferrules) that have long thin things coming out the ends. I presume they're to help seal the cables from the elements, but again no instructions as to how or where they've to be used. 2 have notches on them so can only presume they've got a specific use.

[mitchgixer6]

Sorry just re read the reply above. So I take the braze on mount off the bike, put the sticker on the frame at the point where this adjustment screw will hit the frame. This will stop the screw damaging my frame. Correct?

[goodboyr]

Correct. But I urge you to read the dealers manual and setup the 9000 FD accordingly. There are some differences compared to the usual FD setup. If you do this right it will shift perfectly!