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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 5:02 pm 
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in the industry
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
petepeterson wrote:
Have any of you actually ever had a difficult time handling your bike with 50-60mm wheels in cross winds? People love talking about it but I have never had any issues with it. Maybe it's because I am big.


Do you race when there are 50+ mph gusts? I do...

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:09 pm 
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Zipp has the numbers published, the 303 FC has just a few grams more drag than the older 404 58mm Zipp. So, yes, it is significant, and they tested with 23c tires, which I don't know anybody that run thinner nowadays. Running higher width creates upwards of 25-50gms of drag, like 27c, will add 50gms drag over a 23c on the same FC design.


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Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:09 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:43 pm
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So what are the consensus on the HongFu/UAM AR40 tubular rims?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 9:17 pm 
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^ Don't know about the tubulars, but I run the HongFu clinchers 40mm. I like them. Of course, the hubs/spokes and build are what really make them good. Alchemy UL Orc Rear, ELF Front, CXRays. Just a few grams over 1400 for the set.

They have been solid/reliable wheels, probably have 600+ miles on them now training/racing, hills. Brake tracks are fine, still dead straight and no problems.

I would imagine the tubulars would be even better, lower weight and stronger.

Mine are pretty stiff though. Better than the 303 Firecrest tubulars I had, particularly the rear, and that crappy 188 hub and radial DS lacing, what a mess. Of course, Zipp finally figured that one out finally and resolved the rear hub/lacing issues.

I might pickup a rear Zipp FC 404 tubular, replace with Alchemy Orc UL hub/CXray, and swap it out for training/racing, to get a 40-58mm F/R setup...something deeper on the rear when less windy.

I wish the Light bicycle had their 45mm out, really think that is a great depth all around for everything...but wasn't the case when I built mine.

Total cost for rims/hubs/spokes/nips/build was about $1300.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:33 am 
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@zigmeister, what drillings and spoke patterns did you use? I'm thinking about the 40mm HongFu tubulars as well, and looking at 24/28 since 80-85kg.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Thanks for the note Zigmeister!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:53 pm
Posts: 90
Update on my Light Bicycle wheels.

After a bit of delay LB sent me 2 new rims with out the "thick clear coat" issues.

Braking is good. Dry only. I have not tried wet.

No buildup of brake material so far - 100km ride through Sydney with lots of braking for lights etc.

Very very happy with the new set.

I will update if this changes.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 4:38 am 
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20/24 drilling. I consider myself a sprinter, not a climber by any means. I weigh between 73-74kg.

They handle 1100w accelerations no problem so far.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:00 pm
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Sspring wrote

"Light-Bicycle made my wheels without holes in the tire bed so I can run tubeless without any rim tape. I do recommend doing this. After riding tubeless I am convinced that is the way of the future. Ride quality is improved a great deal and when used with super light tubeless tires (240g) its lighter too. It is more"

How do you build the wheels without holes in the tire bed? I know mavic and shimano have special islets that the nipples thread into so you don't need to put the spokes and nipples through the tire bead side but how would you do this in a LB rim?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:06 pm
Posts: 55
Magic Chinese wheelbuilding trick I guess. Have no idea how they do it but its pretty awesome.

Just an update. The LB45's are still performing beautifully. Other than the clear on the brake trac these are incredible wheels.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 5:03 pm 
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Location: 604
Magic magnets guys. That's how.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:46 pm 
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Spring, did LB build your wheels with no spoke holes in the tire bed? Are the nipples regular nipples? What do you do if you need to replace a spoke? I don't understand how this is possible with standard nipples unless they put an extra layer of carbon on after building them. Magnets? Aluminum is not ferromagnetic so I don't see how this would help. I am planning on building up some LB rims myself and would love to know how to do it without drilling through the tire bed.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:58 am 
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I had a set of Farsports wheels made with no spoke holes. They sent me some pictures of the build process. The trick is a 1 inch piece of spoke on a string and a magnet. It works like this:
- Thread string through spoke hole
- Use magnet to draw spoke bit to valve stem hole
- Thread nipple onto spoke bit
- Pull nipple into place using string


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:52 am 
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Location: Los Angeles / Glendale, California
dookiedoodle wrote:
Spring, did LB build your wheels with no spoke holes in the tire bed? Are the nipples regular nipples? What do you do if you need to replace a spoke? I don't understand how this is possible with standard nipples unless they put an extra layer of carbon on after building them. Magnets? Aluminum is not ferromagnetic so I don't see how this would help. I am planning on building up some LB rims myself and would love to know how to do it without drilling through the tire bed.


It's a pretty common practice. Regular nipples.
Here's a video to help you figure out how it's done:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... x3rs#t=210

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:38 am 
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Did you guy mean this without holes?
Image
Find this on yoeleo site,they call it "Special Assembly Technology"
Looks pretty cool. :lol:


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Posted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:38 am 


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