Titanium Hill Climb Build
Moderator: robbosmans
JamieL wrote:Tufo S3 Lite <125g front and Conti Podium rear (second Tufo punctured on test ride yesterday)
Nice bike, but... Carry the Tufo as a spare... the Crr is abysmal. Get another Podium or one of the Conti track tires... or maybe some other track tire.
formerly rruff...
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Honestly, at 20kph i'm not that concerned with Crr. And given that the longest race i'll do on them is 700m i'll take the puncture risk 
I had the mack track hub to be spaced to 130mm and in fact it sits flush inside the frame - the hub doesn't go inside the dropout at all.
So i clamp the hub in place with a really solid quick release and because the QR is the only piece in the dropout i get about 0.5cm of adjustment. With a half link i pretty much get any gear i want. I've only had the wheel pull to the side once and that was using a lightweight skewer. Now i'm on DA and i've not had any problems.
BmanX wrote:How did you sort out your magic gear? I would love to do this with my Giant TCR.
I had the mack track hub to be spaced to 130mm and in fact it sits flush inside the frame - the hub doesn't go inside the dropout at all.
So i clamp the hub in place with a really solid quick release and because the QR is the only piece in the dropout i get about 0.5cm of adjustment. With a half link i pretty much get any gear i want. I've only had the wheel pull to the side once and that was using a lightweight skewer. Now i'm on DA and i've not had any problems.
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MattSoutherden
- Posts: 1376
- Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:22 pm
- Location: London
hzucker wrote:I have a friend who built a ~9kg bike to train hills with. He loves it. aluminum frame, thick box wheels, heavy 105's, and bricks for brakes ahaha. He likes it because it makes him train so much harder than his ~7kg bike. he equates it to baseball players swinging with a weight to speed up their batting.
just an insight:)
Yes, I do most of my training on a bike that weighs over 12kg (that's without the rack back)...
However, this thread is about building a bike for hill climb time trials. A 9kg beater isn't going to be a lot of use for that.
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MattSoutherden
- Posts: 1376
- Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:22 pm
- Location: London
True. I also have a PowerTap on the training bike.
That said, all that extra weight gives a decent extra chunk of time onto my hill intervals at the same power. About 10-12%, which is a useful bit of extra time in zone.
That said, all that extra weight gives a decent extra chunk of time onto my hill intervals at the same power. About 10-12%, which is a useful bit of extra time in zone.
There's a LFGSS build thread with a lot of pisstaking but also some nuggets of info:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread86203.html
That build used a Dolan Seta which aren't being made anymore.
Personally as others have suggested I would get a cheap carbon or light alu frame. With the use of a half link and possibly a tiny bit of careful and thoughtful filing you should be able to convert most road frames. The one thing to make sure is that you've got the wheel properly secured and if you do use a QR make sure it's a shimano cam type.
As for rear hubs, I'm not sure of the weight, but the surly fixxer will allow you to convert most road rear hubs so you might save some weight with a ww hub, but equally you might not. Planet X/On-one have some very cheap hubs, so your £/$s might be better spent on light rims.
If youre up for something different on the LFGSS thread there was talk of converting a Tune Cannonball with a custom axel and using a bolt on cog. That's obviously a fairly time consuming route thought but would be pretty sick.
Also a few people have mentioned cranks like the Miche and Sugino Messengers I wouldn't go for either. Miche generally don't have a great reputation for quality and the Messengers are just old road cranks that some how got flogged with OTP's and marketed as track cranks. I think converting a decent road crank with a 130bcd ring is a much better way to go. 130bcd rings are pretty common and you're more likely to get a lighter crank.
http://www.lfgss.com/thread86203.html
That build used a Dolan Seta which aren't being made anymore.
Personally as others have suggested I would get a cheap carbon or light alu frame. With the use of a half link and possibly a tiny bit of careful and thoughtful filing you should be able to convert most road frames. The one thing to make sure is that you've got the wheel properly secured and if you do use a QR make sure it's a shimano cam type.
As for rear hubs, I'm not sure of the weight, but the surly fixxer will allow you to convert most road rear hubs so you might save some weight with a ww hub, but equally you might not. Planet X/On-one have some very cheap hubs, so your £/$s might be better spent on light rims.
If youre up for something different on the LFGSS thread there was talk of converting a Tune Cannonball with a custom axel and using a bolt on cog. That's obviously a fairly time consuming route thought but would be pretty sick.
Also a few people have mentioned cranks like the Miche and Sugino Messengers I wouldn't go for either. Miche generally don't have a great reputation for quality and the Messengers are just old road cranks that some how got flogged with OTP's and marketed as track cranks. I think converting a decent road crank with a 130bcd ring is a much better way to go. 130bcd rings are pretty common and you're more likely to get a lighter crank.
So it'd be more of a pointlessly off topic comment than an insight?MattSoutherden wrote:However, this thread is about building a bike for hill climb time trials. A 9kg beater isn't going to be a lot of use for that.hzucker wrote:just an insight:)
