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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 12:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Loveland, CO
For those of you getting into Di2 I have an important advice. I have read about the wires coming out of the shifters if the wires have no slack and are too tight. Mine was professionally built and I didn't take the time to unwrap the bar tape to make sure that there's some slack in the wires. Well today I was on a ride going 25mph when I hit a big pothole. The bike/wheel was fine however I lost all shifting functions front and rear. My first thought was that the battery cable had come undone. I pulled the seatpost and checked the internal battery cable and it was fine. I also checked all cable connections including the ones going into the shifters (they looked OK visually however with the bar tape still on one cannot really tell for sure). I rode home on a fixed (50x16) gear. After I got home I performed a reset thinking that I might have tripped the crash protection system. The gears moved by themselves after the reset however I still don't have any shifting controls. I called up Shimano and they guy said the wires came undone at the shifters. I argued with the Shimano agent and I asked him what's the possibility of wires coming loose on both shifters. He said he was 99.9% sure that's the cause and he asked me to undo the bar tape and check the connections. Well guess what both wires came undone when I hit the pothole. Visually one cannot tell the wires are loose unless you unwrap the bar tape and swing out the triple connection on the shifter. I added a tiny bit of slack and taped the wires to the bar really good. Lesson learned.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 1:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 601
Location: Canada
"Professionally built"?
Maybe......but the Shimano manual specifically says you need to leave slack in those cables for that very reason. So I guess they don't read too well at your LBS.

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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 1:22 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:03 am 
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Location: On the bike
For the internal battery, are you guys doing the seat post install or the wrap in foam and drop into seat tube install?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 7:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Loveland, CO
53x12 wrote:
For the internal battery, are you guys doing the seat post install or the wrap in foam and drop into seat tube install?


I put mine in the seatpost using this nifty accessory from Ritchey Logic:

http://ritcheylogic.com/road/seatposts/ ... ounts.html

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:41 am
Posts: 10
So does anyone have a solid answer as to whats needed to turn my ult 6770 DI2 into 11 speed?

Pat


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:51 pm
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Location: Espoo, Finland
pataww2001 wrote:
So does anyone have a solid answer as to whats needed to turn my ult 6770 DI2 into 11 speed?

A Dura-Ace Di2 9070 rear derailleur and a firmware update.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:38 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
53x12 wrote:
For the internal battery, are you guys doing the seat post install or the wrap in foam and drop into seat tube install?


I just wrapped some electrical tape at each end of the battery to take up the gap and stuck it up in the post. Not very elegant but it was simple and a effective.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:53 pm 
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pdlpsher1 wrote:
I put mine in the seatpost using this nifty accessory from Ritchey Logic:

http://ritcheylogic.com/road/seatposts/ ... ounts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Thanks.


rmerka wrote:

I just wrapped some electrical tape at each end of the battery to take up the gap and stuck it up in the post. Not very elegant but it was simple and a effective.


Thanks guys. Seems that could be the better route than just dropping it into the seat tube.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:41 am
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VPR wrote:
pataww2001 wrote:
So does anyone have a solid answer as to whats needed to turn my ult 6770 DI2 into 11 speed?

A Dura-Ace Di2 9070 rear derailleur and a firmware update.


Only a 9070 rear ? what about a 6870 rear?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 3:35 pm 
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Location: On the bike
I think they were responding to if you wanted 11 speed Di2 right now and just wanted to do the cheapest upgrade path to your 6770 setup. Or you can wait for the 6870 RD as you mentioned. But I believe you will be waiting until end of 2013 or first part of 2014 if you want the 6870 RD. Want 11 speed now, 9070 is only option.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 4:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:30 am
Posts: 277
For those that might read this in the future, if you have a CAAD10 Black Inc and want to do internal battery upgrade, you only need two new wires (shifters) and not a third for seat post placement of battery. The stock battery wire is plenty long. I think it is around a 650mm wire length.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:41 am
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53x12 wrote:
I think they were responding to if you wanted 11 speed Di2 right now and just wanted to do the cheapest upgrade path to your 6770 setup. Or you can wait for the 6870 RD as you mentioned. But I believe you will be waiting until end of 2013 or first part of 2014 if you want the 6870 RD. Want 11 speed now, 9070 is only option.


Understood. so a 9070 rear D, obviously an 11 speed cassette and a firmware update. not too bad at all. how can I go about the getting the update?

Pat


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:33 am 
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Pat, which junction box A do you have?

If you have the newer SM-EW90 A all you need is the associated battery charger, SM-BCR2.

If you have the older SM-EW67A-E you will need the SM-PCE1 PC interface.

If I am wrong, someone can correct me on that.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 601
Location: Canada
That's exactly right.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:27 am
Posts: 43
53x12 wrote:
Pat, which junction box A do you have?

If you have the newer SM-EW90 A all you need is the associated battery charger, SM-BCR2.

If you have the older SM-EW67A-E you will need the SM-PCE1 PC interface.

If I am wrong, someone can correct me on that.


If you are okay with soldering your own adapter, it is possible to use SM-EW67A-E and SM-BCR2. Pls see my earlier posts in this thread -

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=107887&start=120#p988819


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Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:56 pm 


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