Pressfit BB removal... bearings out but cups stuck in frame!
Moderator: robbosmans
Hey folks! I need some WW advice!
My pressfit bottom bracket has been squeaking like hell lately so finally got round to replacing them.
I used a parktool BBT-90.3 when removing the BB cups. After 30mins of hammering none of the cups seem to budge. Eventually the bearings popped out but the actual cup (casing?) is still in the frame! I proceeded with the other side and same thing.
So now how on earth can I get the casings out!? I cant seem to find anyone on google with a similar experience! The parktool seems worthless now for the purpose.
HELP! And please dont tell me a drill is the only option out
My pressfit bottom bracket has been squeaking like hell lately so finally got round to replacing them.
I used a parktool BBT-90.3 when removing the BB cups. After 30mins of hammering none of the cups seem to budge. Eventually the bearings popped out but the actual cup (casing?) is still in the frame! I proceeded with the other side and same thing.
So now how on earth can I get the casings out!? I cant seem to find anyone on google with a similar experience! The parktool seems worthless now for the purpose.
HELP! And please dont tell me a drill is the only option out
Factor O2 Rim / Winspace 1500 Disk / Yoeleo R6 Rim / Cervelo S2 Rim
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- Posts: 1629
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:25 am
- Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
One of these: http://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1
^ Already have one of those. Point was that the bearings came out which is where the tool applies its pressure but the rest (cups) stayed in.
Finally managed to release them though. How so?
1) Added some additional pressure on the parktool lips by spreading them out as much as possible.
2) Wedged them between the grooves of the cups. This aint easy as the cups have that inner cilinder thats pretty flushed with the cups.
3) Bang Bang and out they came
Its a pretty violent process. Hammering your bike to death does not come natural! Ok all good! Thanks!
Finally managed to release them though. How so?
1) Added some additional pressure on the parktool lips by spreading them out as much as possible.
2) Wedged them between the grooves of the cups. This aint easy as the cups have that inner cilinder thats pretty flushed with the cups.
3) Bang Bang and out they came
Its a pretty violent process. Hammering your bike to death does not come natural! Ok all good! Thanks!
Factor O2 Rim / Winspace 1500 Disk / Yoeleo R6 Rim / Cervelo S2 Rim
Had the same issue removing Cannondale's alloy PF30 bearing cups that were installed with Loctite retaining fluid and pretty much did the same thing to the Park tool which really mangles the back side of the cups. Until Park, Pedro's or other tool company makes a better tool, seems like PF30 bearing cups are not likely to be reused.aerozy wrote:Finally managed to release them though. How so?
1) Added some additional pressure on the parktool lips by spreading them out as much as possible.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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- Posts: 1629
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:25 am
- Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
aerozy wrote:^ Already have one of those. Point was that the bearings came out which is where the tool applies its pressure but the rest (cups) stayed in.
You said you had Park 90.3 - that removes the bearings. A Park RT1 or similar 1 1/8" head cup remover is for removal of the cups - the inside diameter of a PF30 bottom bracket is the same/similar to a head tube that takes an 1 1/8" steerer.
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What sort of PF BB was it? PF30 or shimano press fit? Did you have Al or plastic cups?
Plastic cups make less noise. When you have bearings straight onto the crank axle like BB30, or straight into an Al cup you have far more chance of creaking.
Seems to be a big problem on BB30/PF30 where the bearing sits right on the axle. Is caused by a small tolerance mismatch between the inner race and the axle OD allowing a small amount of movement, and then that noise is amplified in the frame.
Fix it with some mild loctite
Plastic cups make less noise. When you have bearings straight onto the crank axle like BB30, or straight into an Al cup you have far more chance of creaking.
Seems to be a big problem on BB30/PF30 where the bearing sits right on the axle. Is caused by a small tolerance mismatch between the inner race and the axle OD allowing a small amount of movement, and then that noise is amplified in the frame.
Fix it with some mild loctite
Technical Director at www.TUFFcycle.com