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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:27 am
Posts: 43
Alternatively, run Linux and install VMware on it ;)


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Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:23 am 


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 1:33 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Avon, Ohio
I am about to swap out the my Ultegra crank on my Di2 group for a FC-9000 11speed crank. Any ideas on if i should stick with the 10speed chain or if I need to go to the 11speed chain?

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Gary Solomons
SL4 Roubaix Di2
Surly Cross Check
Surly Necromancer


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:00 pm
Posts: 20
Unfortunately my issues have not resolved themself, they have only become worse. At first I thought it might have been a button pushed down, and then I noticed that sometimes one of the sd50 wires would come loose on my right shifter. After checking and securing the wires, I charged the system, and it would usually be ok for 2-3 days. Yesterday, in the span of a 72km ride I went from full charge green, to loosing the front shift function. So I left the system charging over night and went out for a ride this morning. I got about 5 km in, ~10 shifts before it went completely flat. So the next 70kms were done in the 39x14. Lets just say the pace-line sections were hectic with cadence peaks of 139rpm. I'm going to apply the new updates for the battery tonight in hope that this will resolve the issue. If I find the culprit I will post here.

My latest thought is that it is winter here, rainy rides, and lots of post ride bike washing. Perhaps there is a small amount of water standing in the frame, pooling around the junction box, and this may be causing the discharge. Otherwise I am going to go insane removing BBright press fit cups to get to the bloody internal junciton box!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 1:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2010 9:25 am
Posts: 146
Location: Sydaaneeeee
notaero wrote:
My latest thought is that it is winter here, rainy rides, and lots of post ride bike washing. Perhaps there is a small amount of water standing in the frame, pooling around the junction box, and this may be causing the discharge. Otherwise I am going to go insane removing BBright press fit cups to get to the bloody internal junciton box!

Could you take out the seatpost and hang the bike upside down and then see if any water comes out? Maybe even leave it out with a hairdryer blowing in for a while if there is any signs of condensation?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:25 pm
Posts: 2
jaypee wrote:
Hi
Anyone had any luck getting e-tube to work with Parallels on the Mac?
Can get it to load and the drivers appear to install, but won't recognise the usb connection "Connect the SM-PCE1/SM-BCR2"
I hear VMware works OK but already have Parallel installed.

thanks in advance
JP


solved this so thought I'd share...

connect SM-BCR2 as normal
start E-tube
when E-tube asks to connect the BCR2, turn in on and off a couple of times in the Devices/USB part of the Parallels menu (the BCR2 should have a tick next to it on the menu)
it will then connect

JP


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Shop Owner

Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 1:33 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Avon, Ohio
garysol1 wrote:
I am about to swap out the my Ultegra crank on my Di2 group for a FC-9000 11speed crank. Any ideas on if i should stick with the 10speed chain or if I need to go to the 11speed chain?


For the record..... My 10speed chain has been working just perfect on the 9000 series crank.

_________________
Gary Solomons
SL4 Roubaix Di2
Surly Cross Check
Surly Necromancer


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 2:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 554
Location: Canada
Well, Shimano continues to put out firmware updates for 6770, 6870 and 9070. I've gone through two updates in the last 3 weeks. No change log, so who knows what's fixed or improved? As well, the E tube software is now up to version 2.3.0 and with this version, you can store your customized switch settings in a file, so you can reload to your drivetrain if you change out components.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:24 am
Posts: 955
Hmmm, thanks for the update about the updates. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:40 pm
Posts: 135
Quick question on etube. If you disable multi shift is it correct that you are no longer able to adjust shift speed, and what speed is default in this instance? Normal?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:08 am
Posts: 263
dha wrote:
Quick question on etube. If you disable multi shift is it correct that you are no longer able to adjust shift speed, and what speed is default in this instance? Normal?


depends on how fast you press the buttons


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 554
Location: Canada
virenque wrote:
dha wrote:
Quick question on etube. If you disable multi shift is it correct that you are no longer able to adjust shift speed, and what speed is default in this instance? Normal?


depends on how fast you press the buttons


Yes. To elaborate, the shift speed setting does not change how quickly a single shift occurs, that's a function of the motors in the FD and RD. What it changes is how long between multiple shifts. In my case, with it on super fast, I always got more than one shift, no matter how quickly I punched the button to get a single shift. So, I changed it to fast, and I could get single shifts.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:40 pm
Posts: 135
Ahh thanks goodboyr, I was finding very fast too quick and kept getting double shifts when I didn't want them.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:30 am
Posts: 277
Cheers for all the great information guys. Read through the whole thread and learned a lot. :beerchug:

I think I will be purchasing a CAAD10 Di2 and would like to do the internal SM-BTR2 battery option. I would just like to figure out what parts I would need to order to replace the stock Di2 parts that come on the CAAD10. I assume the CAAD10 will be coming with these parts besides the Di2 shifters, FD, RD...etc.

Battery= SM-BTR1
Battery charger= SM-BCR1
Junction A= SM-EW67A-E
Junction B= SM-JC41
Wires= EW-SD50?

So that is what I should expect would come with the bike. Now, based on what you guys have said on here, I assume I would need to purchase/have these items available to make the change:

Battery= SM-BTR2 (new part)
Battery charger= SM-BCR2 (new part)
Junction A= SM-EW90 (new part)
Junction B= SM-JC41 (will have from bike)
Wires= EW-SD50 (should have from bike?)

Is the above correct? Any parts that I am missing or need to include?


Last edited by Ahillock on Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:30 am
Posts: 277
One last question, the above route is a bit of a pricey upgrade path, but will be ok if I can hopefully sell a few of those parts off that I don't need to someone who will want to piece together a Di2 kit. What is the advantage of getting the new junction box, battery + charger over something like this homemade kit being sold on eBay?

Image

I assume part of it is that you don't get the warranty from Shimano and knowing that it should be plug and play if you go the Shimano route. But this looks like a decent option plus comes with a better battery than Shimano gives you.


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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:36 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Posts: 122
Location: Loveland, CO
Ahillock wrote:
One last question, the above route is a bit of a pricey upgrade path, but will be ok if I can hopefully sell a few of those parts off that I don't need to someone who will want to piece together a Di2 kit. What is the advantage of getting the new junction box, battery + charger over something like this homemade kit being sold on eBay?

I assume part of it is that you don't get the warranty from Shimano and knowing that it should be plug and play if you go the Shimano route. But this looks like a decent option plus comes with a better battery than Shimano gives you.


Junction A allows you to plug in the USB charger for charging the battery. It's more convenient than pulling the seatpost out. Lastly if you are going with the internal battery option you should also get this http://ritcheylogic.com/road/seatposts/ ... ounts.html


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