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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
Posts: 698
Any good hub today has preload setting which when set properly has a touch of play before tightening the skewer, and still just a touch after tightening the skewer also is you want a micron of play.

Get another frame or set of wheels, the only solution IMO.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am
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I ride s-works sl3 with 2013 FC 404 tubs. No problems at all. These wheels kick ass. Before I rode them I removed and fine tuned the preload to exactly where I wanted it - no play, no drag. You can do this by feel.

Is there a big clearance diff between SL2 and SL3? Are your Zipps 2013 models? I think I did read somewhere theat they improved the hub a tad on the 2013 FC with the 11sp freehub. Before those the lateral play was an issue, but I think it's fixed in the latest wheels.

From Zipp website -

In October 2012 a new rear hub version was released to accommodate Shimano11 and Campagnola 11 speed drive chains. The 188 V7 (2012 gray and black) rear hub was modified as follows:
- Overall drop to drop length (OLD) is increased by 0.8mm
- Axle internal diameter is reduced by 1.0mm (walls are thickened to increase axle strength)
- Non-drive side rear end cap is reduced by 1mm, ‘O’ ring removed and colored black
- New 11 speed free hub with laser etching, serial number and shim for 10 speed
- The V8 88/188 hubs are only available in black, they build a rear wheel which is more durable and marginally stiffer at the same spoke tension. The axle, end cap and free hub are not compatible with the older hub versions (2009-2012). A conversion service is available for only for 2012 188 hubs (gray or black) from Zipp certified wheel builders. The conversion kit is not sold after-market.


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Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:37 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 12:00 am
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tinozee wrote:
I ride s-works sl3 with 2013 FC 404 tubs. No problems at all. These wheels kick ass. Before I rode them I removed and fine tuned the preload to exactly where I wanted it - no play, no drag. You can do this by feel.

Thanks for reply.
Mine are 2012 model.
I don't feel like investing $200 for conversion kit that might not work.

Have you seen my video?
You can see the distance I have between the frame and rear rim... I don't know if SL3 has more space, but u could tell me.

Do you get similar side to side play?

** Either the frame is different or the hub has less play.

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I am Zipp 188 hub specialist :D


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:40 am 
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Briscoelab wrote:
The 404 and even the 303 will work on the SL3 and SL4 bikes. (although the 303 is still a bit close on a 303, it will work). Even the pre-firecrest 303 was a bit tight on an SL2.

I missed this.

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I am Zipp 188 hub specialist :D


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 517
Location: Canada
That looks like too much play. Have you tried adjusting the preload yourself? With the wheel installed and the skewers properly tightened, loosen the lock screw and tighten the collar till the wheel won't spin freely. Then back it off bit by bit till the wheel does spin nice. That's how I got rid of the side play on mine. The zipp instructions result in too much play in my opinion.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:52 am 
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Yup this method setting the preload with the wheel on seems to work well. I have never had to adjust and don't get side to side play or any rattle whatsoever, they feel very solid. I do have other wheels with average hubs and some with nice hubs liie kings and DT 240s. To mee the zip hub stays nice and solid like a 240, whereas a light but mediocre hub like an AC micro 58 will sort of stretch in the bearing seat and rattle, even if you swap out the bearings.

I will try to heasure my clearance or take a pic next time I bring the bike inside in a few days.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:02 am 
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goodboyr wrote:
That looks like too much play. Have you tried adjusting the preload yourself? With the wheel installed and the skewers properly tightened, loosen the lock screw and tighten the collar till the wheel won't spin freely. Then back it off bit by bit till the wheel does spin nice. That's how I got rid of the side play on mine. The zipp instructions result in too much play in my opinion.

Yes, preload is maximum, tightening it even more only caused bad wheel spin... bearings and axle were replaced... wheels checked in Specialized Concept Store.
Imo there's nothing else to fix.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:08 pm 
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Location: Canada
OK. I have less play in my Zipps. I have three sets of 2012 zipps.....101's, 303 cc's and 404 tubbies. All have less play than yours.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:56 pm 
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thisisatest wrote:
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=103140#p879381
there is extra space between the axle and bearings...
the fix, which is temporary and will likely have to be done once or twice a year, is grease. a heavy, sticky grease coating the axle before installation will take up the space between the bearing and axle...

I have regreased the axle with Finish Line Teflon Grease, didn't notice a difference in side play.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 1:36 pm 
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A big problem is the 2012 188 rear hub, even with preload set tighter, causing more drag to the wheel, still would have play often. This was a problem with the hub. They resolved this issue with the 2013 11spd 188 I'm told. But that introduced other things with the dish etc of the 2013 rear.

So your 2012s might have this issue no matter what you try. It is the knock against Zipp, I personally think the 188 is junk, and the radial DS lacing is foolish. I sold my 303 tubulars for this reason basically.

Why not look into another aero wide wheel with a slightly diff profile that is out there and switch to those since you are married to that frame?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
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Location: Canada
Zigmeister wrote:
A big problem is the 2012 188 rear hub, even with preload set tighter, causing more drag to the wheel, still would have play often. This was a problem with the hub. They resolved this issue with the 2013 11spd 188 I'm told. But that introduced other things with the dish etc of the 2013 rear.

So your 2012s might have this issue no matter what you try. It is the knock against Zipp, I personally think the 188 is junk, and the radial DS lacing is foolish. I sold my 303 tubulars for this reason basically.

Why not look into another aero wide wheel with a slightly diff profile that is out there and switch to those since you are married to that frame?


Maybe for you, but all of mine are fine. Of course this is the good old internet, where one persons experiences become universal facts for all.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 4:05 pm 
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[removed]

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Life's too short to smile for reason.
I am Zipp 188 hub specialist :D


Last edited by mzz on Fri Aug 23, 2013 1:54 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 4:12 pm 
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[removed]

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Life's too short to smile for reason.
I am Zipp 188 hub specialist :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 9:36 am
Posts: 175
Location: Eastern Coast of the Baltic Sea
goodboyr wrote:
Maybe for you, but all of mine are fine. Of course this is the good old internet, where one persons experiences become universal facts for all.


Not really. I have 2 sets of Zipps - 404FC's and 808FC's, both have this problem with the rear (that said, the fronts are running beautifully).


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Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:57 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 292
Can you increase the tension of the spokes to reduce the play or is the flex in the rims themselves


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