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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 2:41 pm 
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Location: Sierra Foothills, California USA
Just noticed a few more things. The seatpost !! Where did you source your carbon, if you don't mind.

and,

xpedo lists their force at 230g and yours are right there. Do you see any potential for reduction on these pedals ?

Did you really notice any difference in action or use when you made the switch from Shimano spd ?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 4:55 pm 
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prendrefeu wrote:
Such an incredible, creative build! This has been an addicting thread so far, thank you.


Thanks!


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Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 4:55 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 5:14 pm 
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totoboa wrote:
Just noticed a few more things. The seatpost !! Where did you source your carbon, if you don't mind.

and,

xpedo lists their force at 230g and yours are right there. Do you see any potential for reduction on these pedals ?

Did you really notice any difference in action or use when you made the switch from Shimano spd ?


PEDALS:
At least for me pedal choice is crucial. Its not only aesthetic or weight related but also affects safety and ride quality. Not sure if you noticed but I'm an amputee on my right leg (Below the knee), so for me its a little more complicated to deal with engagement, I don't have ankle rotation and for me is better to just spread my knees out and I should be free on a panic situation. My shima's were doing this trick. After some research and from listening from other members I gave it a shot with the Xpedo's....It worked like a charm! Very easy to Uncleat...on top of that is also aesthetically better and lighter!
I haven't looked closer to brainstorm how to make it lighter...shapes are much more complicated then Speedplay's to shave weight.

Carbon tube:
I can give you tips on how to find them. These companies usually sell these tubes in English Inches, so for example:
34.9mm (mine) = 1.374
31.6mm = 1.244
27.2mm = 1.070

conversion chart: http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm

Its ok to go 0.001 wider if you can't find your exact diameter, I got a 1.375 and worked really well!

:thumbup:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:55 pm 
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Side project starting. Flash factory racing with S-work crank...

Final weight is going to be veeeery light! something under 17lbs to start with what I have....possible after a while 15.56lbs!
Image
carbon spacer to look good and light
Image
full carbon caliper adapter
Image

:thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:48 am 
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Location: USA
I suggest you get a narrow-wide XX1 style chainring on your new crank (if you aren't doing so already). That'll allow you to ditch your chain keeper which will save 45g if I'm remembering right...

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:50 am 
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dwaharvey wrote:
I suggest you get a narrow-wide XX1 style chainring on your new crank (if you aren't doing so already). That'll allow you to ditch your chain keeper which will save 45g if I'm remembering right...


I'm with you. On my new Flash project I will give it a try with this chainring....is the mail: http://goo.gl/S6Mi1I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

At least as far as I now it doesn't exist a S-work Spiderless XX1 type Chainring around....It would save around 80g from my 104spider(106g) /chainring above (54g)+bolts (4g) setup ...let me know if you see anything!

Interesting is! on my Spark I upgrade my rear der from XX to XTR shadow plus, ditched my chain guide....and I haven't had a chain drop ever since (Using MRP 36T), about 2 months already....riding mostly weekends on rocky downhills...


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 12:04 am 
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I'm confused why a spacer is needed to install the Spec crank on the Flash frame. Isn't OSBB the same as BB30? I've never seen the NDS crank spaced out like that before (10mm?) on a Specialized frame... is there a spacer on the drive side also?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 1:29 am 
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dwaharvey wrote:
I'm confused why a spacer is needed to install the Spec crank on the Flash frame. Isn't OSBB the same as BB30? I've never seen the NDS crank spaced out like that before (10mm?) on a Specialized frame... is there a spacer on the drive side also?


Don't know much about spindle/Cranks. This was my second attempt actually, first a tried a sram XX 156Qfactor Crank, after installation both crankarms touched the Chainstay's! :evil: ....had to resell it and dig the internet to learn more about it. Found out that these S-works cranks were the best cost/effective per weight around and wide enough for my frame. Yes I'm using a 10mm spacer on non-drive side (ditched Alloy Bearing Cover/Wave washer/bearing spacer = 10mm) and 5mm carbon spacer on drive side (also ditched metal spacers. Couldn't make it perfect....still about 2mm clearance on the left crankarm/chainstay and about 3mm on the right side, not centered yet....but is good enough.....I'm not using the 'Carbon/Alloy Bearing Sleeve'....number 8 in the installation guide:
Installation guide is here: http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf ... ank_r1.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

To answer your question: Flash BB shell is not wider than Epic BB shell, 9 mm minus.

here is were I got the info: http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/s-wor ... 33152.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 6:02 pm 
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Updates:
Polished Alloy finish on XX levers and calipers. Old paint was awful , I liked to result!
Tires: Michelin Wild Race'r Ultimate 26x2.10 - 410g/403g

After weight:19.51lbs as pictured with cateye and bottle cage
Image
Image

Ready to fly next weekend...XTERRA!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 2:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
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Location: Canada
what method did you use to debadge the crank arms?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 6:03 pm 
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devinci wrote:
what method did you use to debadge the crank arms?

Sand paper paying attention to STOP when reaching the carbon, I started with a 120 grade and finished with 400. Krylon Matte (mine) or Glossy finish as you wish for protection.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:18 pm 
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Location: Canada
thanks

I have some experience in carbon sanding with my vertex frame from 2 years ago. I used different techniques, from razor blade to carbolift to sand paper.

I want to debadge my sram cranks, they're like yours.

I have some carbolift left around, I will tried that, then sand paper, I think your sram crank arm look very good.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:35 am 
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Chinese saddle 103g (from Fizik 158g). Current weight 19.20lbs without Cateye.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 1:40 am 
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devinci wrote:
thanks

I have some experience in carbon sanding with my vertex frame from 2 years ago. I used different techniques, from razor blade to carbolift to sand paper.

I want to debadge my sram cranks, they're like yours.

I have some carbolift left around, I will tried that, then sand paper, I think your sram crank arm look very good.


I have been curious about the carbonlift stuff. How does it work? too much rubbing or is easy? is it bad for you hands?


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Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 1:40 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:21 pm 
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HUmm, the product does'nt seem too bad for the skin or does'nt have that much of hard fumes BUT on my white frame it was working very poorly only lifting a thin layer of paint. I actually had to sand the whole frame because the carbolift was so bad.

I think it is common on white paint.

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