Thanks Miller. I found your thread before I saw your post with the link. Your problem is the same as mine and your pictures show it perfectly.
Here's a link to your pictures again: viewtopic.php?f=113&t=115505
For anyone interested: As you tighten the cassette lockring the bottom edge of it makes contact with a flanged spacer on the axle. The flange of this spacer covers up the bearings inside the freehub body. As you tighten the cassette lockring it has the effect of clamping against this flanged spacer and this has the effect of locking the cassette/freehub body to the axle. And hey presto, you turn the cassette with your hand and the axle turns with it. The axle no longer turns independently inside the freehub body and is instead locked to the freehub body/cassette.THESE HUBS ARE PLAIN DEFECTIVE. DO NOT BUY A SO-CALLED CAMPAGNOLO COMPATIBLE NOVATEC FREEHUB, BECAUSE THEY SURE AS HELL AIN'T CAMPAGNOLO COMPATIBLE.
Two solutions spring to mind:-
1/ Fit spacer/spacers onto the freehub body before I fit the cassette in an attempt to create some clearance between the bottom edge of the cassette lockring and the flanged spacer on the axle. But this is exactly what cassette spacers are not meant for.
2/ Use a shallower depth lockring, if you can. I say 'If you can' because in the case of Campag 10 speed a Token lockring is a bit shallower than a Campag one, but you might be screwed if this problem is with an 11 speed cassette where there are few, if any, alternative lockrings.
However, both of these fixes are plain bad because in the case of this Novatec hub there are already very few threads actually engaging between lockring and freehub body, and either of these two fixes will result in even fewerthreads engaging.
Any ideas anyone? Has my Novatec F582SB hub been built with the wrong parts? And what is my position if I cobble together some kind of fix that results in some kind of injury to myself?