I also found a patent for the Over-Torque™ crankset, which has a publication date of July 17, 2013: EP2615021 A1 where Figure 3 explains the clamping construction a bit.
2014 Campagnolo groups?
Moderator: robbosmans
Given that these are cranks, thus right up my ally, I thought I'd do some research. Glory Cycles posted some photos on their Flickr account of the tools for the Over-Torque™ cranks.
I also found a patent for the Over-Torque™ crankset, which has a publication date of July 17, 2013: EP2615021 A1 where Figure 3 explains the clamping construction a bit.
I also found a patent for the Over-Torque™ crankset, which has a publication date of July 17, 2013: EP2615021 A1 where Figure 3 explains the clamping construction a bit.
“I always find it amazing that a material can actually sell a product when it’s really the engineering that creates and dictates how well that material will behave or perform.” — Chuck Teixeira
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Pharmstrong
- Posts: 328
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:17 pm
More tools, great. I'm struggling to see what benefit this design offers over a pinch bolt?
uraqt wrote:Is this 1907?
C
Next up: A square tapered axle!
OK, so that second tool looks like a spanner/extractor combo, but I can't figure out what that first thing does. [Edit - it looks like it pushes the crankarm on? Ultra Torque seems so much more elegant]
11-27 cassette looks intriguing. I'm mulling over how much time I spend in 39-16 or 53-16 (16 replaced with 11 in this cassette), versus times I wish I had 53-11. I'm on 12-27 currently, do a fair bit of climbing, some descents would be faster on 11, but I haven't had the guts to go 11-25.
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natiedean24
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WTF is '8D' in the diagram above? a setscrew - honestly.
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jaibautista
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2012 1:17 pm
Just a thought: why was the UT design not used to create the oversized spindles? Why the shift towards a PT-inspired crankset?
Was it because of weight concerns? Durability concerns? Cost concerns?
I couldn't understand why Campagnolo had to move away from a tried-and-tested crankset design.
Was it because of weight concerns? Durability concerns? Cost concerns?
I couldn't understand why Campagnolo had to move away from a tried-and-tested crankset design.
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Causidicus
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:20 am
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Last edited by Causidicus on Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
^ No where does it say or show that it does.
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ferrarista
- Posts: 1202
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Martin.F wrote:Does anybody know if the Bora 35 comes in darklabel? The red don't match my Celeste!
For sure it will be available. All their top end wheels have that option.
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I run SR EPS. The internal battery appeals but I am not about to drill another hole in my frame for a charging port that might become obsolete and isn't common with DI2.
It also appears that fixing the battery internally is going to require quite a bit of dexterity, and the removal of the bb which isn't practical every charge.
I hoped to be able to fit it into the seat post through an interference fit. Is this going to be an option? Not too much of a hindrance to remove the seat post to charge, and I might even consider drilling a hole for the charging port in a seat post, but not a frame.
It also appears that fixing the battery internally is going to require quite a bit of dexterity, and the removal of the bb which isn't practical every charge.
I hoped to be able to fit it into the seat post through an interference fit. Is this going to be an option? Not too much of a hindrance to remove the seat post to charge, and I might even consider drilling a hole for the charging port in a seat post, but not a frame.
If your frame is built for EPS already - there should already be a hole where the wires used to exit the frame to go to the battery.
It's probably either around the top of the BB or by the lower bottle cage.
Mount your battery to whichever bottle cage the hole is located to next too and put the charging port in that. No need to ever remove the battery then.
It's probably either around the top of the BB or by the lower bottle cage.
Mount your battery to whichever bottle cage the hole is located to next too and put the charging port in that. No need to ever remove the battery then.
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On many frames that I have seen, that makes sense. Unfortunately my battery is mounted underneath the downtube near the bb.
The wires enter the frame underneath the bb shell, which is too far away from either bottle mount to run what seems to be a really short cable from the battery on the pictures. It also seems to need quiet a bit of clearance inside the frame, which I don't have around the bb.
The wires enter the frame underneath the bb shell, which is too far away from either bottle mount to run what seems to be a really short cable from the battery on the pictures. It also seems to need quiet a bit of clearance inside the frame, which I don't have around the bb.
