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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 1222
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
No seized nipples here yet and I use 3n1 oil to lubricate spoke threads but then again a wheel should not need truing either. I do not use Rock n Roll nipple cream as I have not yet found the need. Once the need appears then I may change how I lube spoke threads but if no issues are caused why spend the extra time and money on something that is not a problem. Some times I think we worry over every last detail and some of those thing are nothing to worry about in the first place. I have built plenty of wheels this way with 10000+ miles on them and no issues so it not an issue.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 4:33 pm 
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True enough.

I know wheels shouldn't need truing, but sometimes sh1t happens.

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Posted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 4:33 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I have yet to have a rear wheel that didn't eventually need truing/tensioning. Factory build, hand built by reputable builders or by the LBS, and my own.

The range has been from only a few rides, to 3-4k miles before attention is required. The handbuilts from reputable builders and LBS have been all across the range. Factory wheels in the middle to longer end of the range. Mine cluster in the middle. I don't think I am better than reputable builders but I can spend more time.

I'm light and don't slam into obstacles. I climb a lot, stand on climbs often, and rock the bike when I stand. I think that's what makes me hard on wheels.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:47 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Well eric I have many that never need truing. In fact none of my road wheels ever have.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:40 pm 
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I wasn't questioning you or anyone else, just saying what my experience has been and a possible reason for it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:55 pm 
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I have a strange issue with a wheel I've just built for a friend, wondering if anyone can shed light on it. Build is a Novatec hub, Archetype rim, Laser spokes with brass nipples. It all went together well, tensions are even etc and I stress relieved by vigorous spoke grabbing. However when I tap the wheel with my knuckle the rim makes a curious high frequency buzzing sound. I've made a video to try and demonstrate this:

http://youtu.be/sITHizbh0yA

(its not great quality, but you can hear it.)

There's no noise when I put a tyre and tube on as the vibration is dampened, but this bothers me as I've not experienced it before. Does it matter? Any comments?

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Last edited by MajorMantra on Tue Jul 23, 2013 11:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 11:37 pm 
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i don't know if i'm the only one, but i can't see you video....

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 11:49 pm 
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Try the link now - something weird going on with it. Oh, and turn your volume up, the effect is subtle. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 12:15 pm 
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Location: Estonia
Need advice...
Going to build some pave wheels soon.
Ambrosio Crono rims
DA 7800 hubs, 32H
Laser spokes front and rear NDS
Race spokes DS
brass nipples.
Rear wheel will be 3x both sides, but what about front lacing? 2x or 3x? My weight is 70kg (154lbs) with gear.
Is 3x wheel more rigid laterally and 2x gives more comfort?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:11 pm 
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This is probably going to be the biggest newbie question in this thread but...

I am planning to get some wheels built and I have an idea of what I want the set up to be.

- Pacenti SL23 Rims
- Campagnolo Record Hubs
- Sapim CX Ray Spokes
- DT Swiss Brass Nipples

My problem is I have a SRAM groupset and I've been researching on ways to be able to use the Campy hubs with a SRAM/Shimano cassette. I have been researching a lot on free hub bodies that are Campy compatible with SRAM/Shimano splines and I have found this:

http://www.glorycycles.com/fucafrbofors.html

And before I get hated on for the SRAMpagnolo or whatever it is, I picked the Campy Record hubs for a lot of reasons.

- Cheaper than DT240s/R45s
- Perform just as well, maybe better (From research.)
- Easy to service and maintain (From research.)
- Only slightly heavier than the DT240s/R45s
- I want a 32h/32h set up

If it performs just as well as those 2 highly acclaimed hubs, but cheaper, then why not? I am a broke college student who is trying to find the perfect set up for a good price.

As far as I can tell, this will work but I am not exactly sure. Can anyone confirm if this free hub body will work with the wheel build I have planned?

Thank you in advance for the patience. Sorry for being a noob.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:29 am
Posts: 335
rainerhq wrote:
Need advice...
Rear wheel will be 3x both sides, but what about front lacing? 2x or 3x? My weight is 70kg (154lbs) with gear.
Is 3x wheel more rigid laterally and 2x gives more comfort?

Hi rainerhq, actually 2x is more laterally stiffer and 3x gives more comfort and torque drive.
I would suggest, for your weight, 1x or 2x and radial would also be fine (if the hub can be laced radially).

thanks KL :)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:45 am 
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Location: Estonia
Thanks!
Can I get away with 2x on the rear also? Just want to be sure there will be no brake rub with Crono rim.
Started to calculate spokes and with 3x I need 302 and 300mm. Many shops do not offer over 296mm.
With 2x rear: 294/293. Shorter spokes=less flex?

EDIT: another idea. What about 2x NDS and 3x DS on rear wheel?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:57 am 
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Posts: 71
A question regarding aluminum nipples...

Which brand's alu nipples are most recommended?

The only alu nipples I've used are CN's, some of which have more resistance during turning(I used liberal amount of anti-seize or grease), the quality of their threads seems to be sub par.

Is it best to use spokes and nipples from the same maker?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:32 pm
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MajorMantra wrote:
However when I tap the wheel with my knuckle the rim makes a curious high frequency buzzing sound. I've made a video to try and demonstrate this:

http://youtu.be/sITHizbh0yA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(its not great quality, but you can hear it.)

There's no noise when I put a tyre and tube on as the vibration is dampened, but this bothers me as I've not experienced it before. Does it matter? Any comments?


I've noticed similar sounds in wheels can sometimes simply be a bit of left over debris from drilling. Might be able to shake it out, but would do no harm to leave it in as well. "To do nothing is also a good solution."

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:49 pm 
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The odd thing is there are no loose debris. My theory is there might be a slight void in the join which opens and closes as the rim resonates. It goes away with a tyre on and my friend is happy, so I've chosen not to worry about it.

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Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:49 pm 


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