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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 54
About to install my first set of PF 30 cranks.

The cups and bearings were installed in the frame (Cdale Super Six) when I got it, so I'm going to use them.

I bought a Specialized S-Works crank which has the Hirth joint.

Read the instructions, did some net research, but I have a question.

It appears the arms are supposed to slide into the bearings (same way an external BB Shimano crank axle slides through).

How tight a fit should I expect here? How do I get them to slide through- I don't see using a rubber hammer to whack the carbon arms. Will the bolt catch and pull them through?

More importantly, how to I remove them?
I will need to remove and install them fairly frequently as i have 2 spiders for them (one for road, one for a single ring for hillclimbs)


Bonus question: Using Campy 11sp levers with Shimano XTR rear derailleur. Neither the frame nor the rear derailleur have provision for adjustment. What are my options here?

Any experiences replies appreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:49 am 
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Location: Toronto
Quote:
Bonus question: Using Campy 11sp levers with Shimano XTR rear derailleur. Neither the frame nor the rear derailleur have provision for adjustment. What are my options here?


Is this a joke of some kind?

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

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Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:49 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 2:00 am 
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bikerjulio wrote:
Quote:
Bonus question: Using Campy 11sp levers with Shimano XTR rear derailleur. Neither the frame nor the rear derailleur have provision for adjustment. What are my options here?


Is this a joke of some kind?


No, why would it be?

Campy 11 speed lever + non dynasis shimano rear derailleur= works perfectly with Shimano 9 speed wheel/cassette. I'm using the XTR because I need a 34 tooth large cog because it is a hillclimb bike


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 2:13 am 
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Location: South Carolina
Put the crank arms in a freezer for a bit that way you wont have to hammer on them as much (the spindle should shrink a little).

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 6:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
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Location: NoVA/DC
specialized cranks usually will slide or wiggle in without much fuss, but if it's tight, put it in the freezer. in the end, a plastic faced mallet is no problem either. the bolt will pull it together too.
to take it off, loosen the bolt and wiggle one arm out, then the other.
for the shifter/derailleur, personally i'd use a non-shadow type rear derailleur, as it tracks the cogs closer, shifting is better in a road application. if you stick with the derailleur you have, inline barrel adjusters are everywhere. Jagwire makes a bunch, their most recent one holds 4mm housing without end caps and is especially small and functional. Shimano makes one similar, which is even better as it is unlikely to accidentally wind down. there is also a plug-in type by Jagwire that goes into a housing stop, as long as there is clearance for the barrel itself.
Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:34 pm 
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thisisatest wrote:
specialized cranks usually will slide or wiggle in without much fuss, but if it's tight, put it in the freezer. in the end, a plastic faced mallet is no problem either. the bolt will pull it together too.
to take it off, loosen the bolt and wiggle one arm out, then the other.
for the shifter/derailleur, personally i'd use a non-shadow type rear derailleur, as it tracks the cogs closer, shifting is better in a road application. if you stick with the derailleur you have, inline barrel adjusters are everywhere. Jagwire makes a bunch, their most recent one holds 4mm housing without end caps and is especially small and functional. Shimano makes one similar, which is even better as it is unlikely to accidentally wind down. there is also a plug-in type by Jagwire that goes into a housing stop, as long as there is clearance for the barrel itself.
Image
Image
Image


Thank you


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
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Location: Toronto
bobqzzi wrote:
bikerjulio wrote:
Quote:
Bonus question: Using Campy 11sp levers with Shimano XTR rear derailleur. Neither the frame nor the rear derailleur have provision for adjustment. What are my options here?


Is this a joke of some kind?


No, why would it be?

Campy 11 speed lever + non dynasis shimano rear derailleur= works perfectly with Shimano 9 speed wheel/cassette. I'm using the XTR because I need a 34 tooth large cog because it is a hillclimb bike


My apologies. I had not thought this would work. Not sure what the question was here
Quote:
Neither the frame nor the rear derailleur have provision for adjustment. What are my options here?
. What kind of adjustment?

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 3:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
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Location: Houston, Texas
alorast wrote:
Put the crank arms in a freezer for a bit that way you wont have to hammer on them as much (the spindle should shrink a little).
The spindles for our Hollowgram SRM's were way to tight such that even after and hour in the freezer, tapping them in still displaced the bearing from the other side. My solution was a trial and error process in which I used a cordless drill to spin the spindle like a lathe and using fine grade Emory cloth, I sprayed water and wet polished the spindle to reduce the diameter a few microns until the spindle could be inserted sans rubber mallet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Location: Palm Coast, Fl.
ms6073 wrote:
alorast wrote:
Put the crank arms in a freezer for a bit that way you wont have to hammer on them as much (the spindle should shrink a little).
The spindles for our Hollowgram SRM's were way to tight such that even after and hour in the freezer, tapping them in still displaced the bearing from the other side. My solution was a trial and error process in which I used a cordless drill to spin the spindle like a lathe and using fine grade Emory cloth, I sprayed water and wet polished the spindle to reduce the diameter a few microns until the spindle could be inserted sans rubber mallet.


Can of compressed air upside down so that it gets cold fast will freeze the spindle in seconds. This way you can forgo the cloth and it will go on with the mallet just fine. :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 6:06 pm 
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Location: Houston, Texas
shoemakerpom2010 wrote:
Can of compressed air upside down so that it gets cold fast will freeze the spindle in seconds. This way you can forgo the cloth and it will go on with the mallet just fine. :thumbup:
I left the spindle in the freezer overnight and it still pushed the bearing out of the other side during install but after I 'polished' our spindles, a light coat of grease and they go in by hand.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 489
Location: Canada
If you use the freezing method you still face the same problem if you ever have to remove the crank. A light sanding with 600 wet solves everything forever.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 4 Beta


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Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:08 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:51 am 
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Got it together and apart a few times. Does require a hammer,but it sets up pretty easy


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