First off a picture of what I'm working with:




(Different brakes, rotors and rear tire in this picture)


Current weight:

9,2KG

Parts currently on the bike, sadly I only know the weight of some of the parts:

2012 Cannondale Scalpel HiMod frame.
2011 Lefty 100mm XLR, P321 bolt and cap.
Drivetrain is a complete XX1.
Nukeproof TI/Magnesium platformpedals and xpedo TI XMF08TT SPDs. What I use depends on where I'm going to ride.

San Marco Aspide (Carbon rails, 129g)
FSA seatpost
FSA Handlebar
Cannondale lockon grips

Arundel bottlegage w/TI screws (about 40g)

Magura MT8 with Storm SL rotors.
The wheels is a custom build, P321 hubs, 'regular' spokes, aluminum nipples, crest rims and nobby nic snakeskins. Running them tubeless.
Hope rear skewer (134 grams!)

Did I forget anything?

My goals:
Spending as little as possible, but still enough to shed some weight here and there.
I'm well over my big investments into this bike as I built it frame the frame from the ground up. I love it to bits and tinkering on it is quite enjoyable so if I can find some stuff to make it even more awesome that'd be great :thumbsup:

Will probably get a 650b wheelset some time in the future.

Parts Purchased:


Thanks,

Foam grips, loose the bar mounted remote.

I presume that rear QR isn't for a standrad 135mm/10mm, if so then XTR is about 63g and XT 68g (Yes I prefer and accept the weight of Shimano!)

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Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956

As mentioned before the grips could be changed, there are lighter seatpost and handlebar combos but I see that keep with the colour scheme... you could change the rotors to Quaxar Axim rotors, should save around 50g over the Storms plus they come in green... no comment on durability/performance though as I've never used them.

Otherwise I think 9.2kg is a really good weight for what you have there.

That's a great bike, at already a great weight. But if you want to try to make it lighter, here are things I'd consider:
* Steerer tube/stem: are you running a Project 321 steerer and standard stem? I think the Cannondale OPI system is likely a fair bit lighter. Alternatively, if you don't like the Cannondale OPI stem, an MCFK carbon steerer tube could save a lot of weight (~100g vs the P321) without losing functionality. There are lots of light weight stem options at around 110g or so (personally I wouldn't go for the ultra-ultra-light ones like Extralite, etc)
* Handlebar: Unless you're really attached the FSA bar (does it have the green and white like the post?), I'd consider an MCFK or a Mt Zoom (cheaper) riser bar... probably save around 60g
* QR: as you and others have mentioned. What type is it: actual QR? 135x10 thru? 142x12 thru?
* Cranks: a direct mount chainring on the XX1 cranks would save a bit. Or get some Hollowgram SiSL (or SiSL2) cranks and either a direct mount ring or a Leonardi Racing XX1 spider. On my Funk (see signature), the combination of SiSL2 / Leonardi saved 111g over the XX1 GXP cranks (459g vs 571g). Personally I don't love the look of the XX1 cranks (on this bike particularly), so I see this as an opportunity to improve the looks also.
* Lockout: Shorten the cable and run it on the left (routes better this way I think). Save a bit of weight, but not much.

On a bike like this, I wouldn't want to compromise functionality for weight savings or your enjoyment of riding the bike will suffer - the above changes are meant to bear this in mind.

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Enjoying my Funk

Lovely bike and already a cracking weight.
Replace grips for ESI Chunky or Racers Edge. Seatpost there are tons of light models on the market so it's purely a choice of price. Bars some MT Zooms are super light. Brake rotors KCNC Razor, Quaxar Iris. Seat tube clamp. Quick release skewers need looking into and I can't see what stem you have but have a look at KCNC SC Wing stems?
Other than that I'm sure there are lighter tyres but that's a choice of what riding you're doing.

Here's a link to a fantastic online store, he also has items on ebay too. Amazing service and will answer any questions you have personally and immediately.
http://www.xcracer.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Keep us informed on the changes.

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)

The "old" IS Marta caliper is 100% compatible to your MT8 levers. And all in all it is 30g lighter and looks very clean

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You only own a bike when you've violated every single term of guarantee.

First of all, thank you all for the replies. They really help me out

My first purchase has been a MT Zoom TI rear skewer, if listed weights are something to trust I'll save a whopping 90 grams just off of that. If it fails I suppose I'll try out the XT skewer.



That I didn't know, will definitely try that out if a cheap set of Martas pop up




I actually like the lockons, but I have some ritchey wcs foamies for whenever my current set wears out.

Looked into ditching the remote, I'd have to get PBR kit to replace that of my XLR and it didn't sound like an easy thing to do. Shortening the hose was apparently a huge pita aswell.

See above for the skewer.



Yeah, the bar and post both match. I got them both new for $100 when I was building the bike which was a really good deal. I have a Monkeylite bar and a thomson masterpiece left over from my old bike which are both lighter, but they're currently unused.

The rotors are probably there to stay, I was using aligator rotors for a while and they proved to be too thin for the Maguras to grab a hold of. So far only the Storm SLs have been thick enough to provide adequate stopping power.



Thanks, I do realise that I'm already quite the weenie with what I have; but going a little bit further can't hurt
I will look into all the parts mentioned and see what fits my budget for the biggest weight savings.

The stem is a Hope, pretty sure it isn't the lightest thing out there as it has some milled features and lines. If I were to swap that out I should probably go all out and go with a lefty steerer that accepts a standard size stem.

I did run a NN front and RR rear for a while which was a somewhat lighter setup, but I found that the RR rear was sliding or spinning out too often so I went with NN front and rear. Apart from my fatbike this is my do-it-all bike so I can't 100% spec it for XC. It has to deal with all of it




Thanks, the bar is a matching FSA.
The QR is a 135x9 actually, as mentioned above I'm going to try out the TI MT Zoom skewer.
I'll definitely look into the parts you mentioned and see what I can make happen!

Replacing the cranks is probably not going to happen as that would mean a pretty big investment for no other reason than weight. I will at the very least have to wear out my current ones or crash them a few times before doing that.

I looked into shortening the hose, but was advised against it as it was a 'mechanical nightmare'. As for wether or not that's an assured nightmare or not I do not know. It didn't exactly fill me with confidence

Forgot to mention that I weenied my mt8 lever since I posted this thread..

LOL---that's the way a cave man would weight weenie----break little pieces off until satisfied.

Hope that was all the damage

Indeed
I think I'm just going to find a small saw and cut off some material near where it broke and put some kind of resin over it. $100 for a new lever doesn't really tickle my fancy when it still works fine as is.

As you can see in the picture the brake and shifter have moved on the bar so there's some scratching, but other than that I can't locate anything that's damaged other than the snapped lever.

I got the MTZ skewer in a few days ago, will measure and put it on later today

Be careful, there are two diffrent versions of the IS Marta caliper. A short one for 140mm rear rotors will fit in front for 160mm ! And the larger 160mm rear is for 180mm front discs only.
It works fine one my bike for almost two years now.
Stay tuned and have fun !

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You only own a bike when you've violated every single term of guarantee.

Don't know who told you that shortening the remote cable was a nightmare: it took about 5 minutes to do. You just need a sharp razer blade. Process is the same as shown here for the Reverb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8bazebwEU4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If worst comes to worst and you do need to bleed the remote after (this happened to me), you should be able to take the bike to any decent shop and have them do it for like 10 pounds or so. (in my case, my friend happens to have the bleed kit for these Rock Shox remotes, so he did it for me... it super quick and easy, much quicker than bleeding a brake for instance). Here's a photo of the resulting setup on my Funk from Velovert's coverage of NAHBS:

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Enjoying my Funk

Wow, your Mt8 looks very nice. How do you cleaned it ?

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You only own a bike when you've violated every single term of guarantee.

Thanks! A small wire brush on a dremel to remove the red paint from the hinge and clamp area, then acetone to remove the writing from elsewhere on the lever.

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Enjoying my Funk

Here's an update for anyone interested, if I can trust my weight that's approximately 160g saved.

Nukeproof Ti/Magnesium platform pedals


Xpedo XMF08TT


Mount Zoom Ti skewer:


Hope (steel) skewer:



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