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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:46 am 
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Use the reference spot that my Retül fitter adviced me to if I change saddles. Meassure the spot where the saddle is 100mm wide. From that spot go 40mm forward. This is the reference spot. This is were you sit on the saddle which is why this is the spot you should compare with.

An example from my self. I have actually just set a new testbike (Storck) up with an Arione whereas my race bike, fittet with Retül, has an SLR.

My setback shall be 82mm. The distance from nose to reference spot on my SLR is 135mm. The distance on the Arione is 133mm, which means that the setback on the Stock should be 82-135+133=84mm. The setback should be increased with the difference between the nose-to-reference spot on the saddles.

Same goes for saddle height. Don't meassure along with the seattube, but do the comparison with the place where you actually sit on the saddle, which is the reference spot. Meassure from bottom bracket to this spot and transfer that meassurement the new saddle.

When you want to level the saddle don't messure from the front to the rear, but level the saddle from the front to the 100mm mark. This actually means that the saddle will look like it points a little down on most saddles because most saddle has a tendency to be a little lower on the middle (not Arione as it is one of the most leveled saddle - just straight) .

Try it! It works! I have just set 4 bicycles up based on this, and they feel 100% identical even though they all had different saddles.

But keep in mind that some saddles deflect more than others. I had to lower the Arione about 2mm after the set up, because it doesn't deflect as much as my SLR. You can't meassure this. You have to try.


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 Post subject:
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:46 am 


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:32 pm 
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coloclimber wrote:
beatnik wrote:
this saddle has completely transformed my riding experience.

Care to explain how?? thx


I don´t need to pedal out of the saddle because i don´t need to rest. My power output is better, and i can ride 100 miles without pain. Uphills i can climb for more than 1 hour without pressure at my perineum (the key issue for a saddle). But the most important thing. After a long ride i don´t have problems with my prostatic area, and yes i can...well you know what i´m talking about :lol: .

I own this saddle for 2 years, but my first experience was bad (too hard and pretty heavy for the comfort), but i had my last saddle crisis and i gave it a try again, same feel till one day that my rear tire was flat. I rode 10 km with half the pressure and wow! i was amazed...the saddle have dissapeared. The reason, my saddle was not at perfect dead level until the tire made "the miracle".

Last weekend i rode 200 miles in 3 consecutive days, and at the end of the third day i couldn´t believe how good i felt. No pain, no numbness... it´s the best saddle i´ve ever tried. 1000$ dollars and more than 10 models after it´s time to enjoy again.

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Biomechanical spreadsheet. Sizing&Fitting.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 8e319d185b


Last edited by beatnik on Wed May 06, 2009 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:34 pm 
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Giant DK wrote:
Use the reference spot that my Retül fitter adviced me to if I change saddles. Meassure the spot where the saddle is 100mm wide. From that spot go 40mm forward. This is the reference spot. This is were you sit on the saddle which is why this is the spot you should compare with.

An example from my self. I have actually just set a new testbike (Storck) up with an Arione whereas my race bike, fittet with Retül, has an SLR.

My setback shall be 82mm. The distance from nose to reference spot on my SLR is 135mm. The distance on the Arione is 133mm, which means that the setback on the Stock should be 82-135+133=84mm. The setback should be increased with the difference between the nose-to-reference spot on the saddles.

Same goes for saddle height. Don't meassure along with the seattube, but do the comparison with the place where you actually sit on the saddle, which is the reference spot. Meassure from bottom bracket to this spot and transfer that meassurement the new saddle.

When you want to level the saddle don't messure from the front to the rear, but level the saddle from the front to the 100mm mark. This actually means that the saddle will look like it points a little down on most saddles because most saddle has a tendency to be a little lower on the middle (not Arione as it is one of the most leveled saddle - just straight) .

Try it! It works! I have just set 4 bicycles up based on this, and they feel 100% identical even though they all had different saddles.

But keep in mind that some saddles deflect more than others. I had to lower the Arione about 2mm after the set up, because it doesn't deflect as much as my SLR. You can't meassure this. You have to try.


I love your trick ;)

_________________
Biomechanical spreadsheet. Sizing&Fitting.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 8e319d185b


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 1:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:28 am
Posts: 119
I am trying to find out more information on the sizing charts but no luck yet. I am riding a Fizik Aliante right now and wondering what size to try. Thanks.

beatnik wrote:
Is not in the s.s. but i want to tell you something. Buy a SMP saddle, the only one that gives a 100% of blood at your perineum.

For S sized riders= Evolution
For M riders= Glider
For L-XL riders= Pro
For XL-XXL riders= Plus

www.sellesmp.com

After 25 years of cycling these are best saddles your money can buy. I´m not a commercial but this saddle has completely transformed my riding experience.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:03 am 
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Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 8:45 pm
Posts: 1452
Giant, your method is sound.
At the Mapei center they do the same: they open a caliper at 10cm and slide it "around" the saddle to find its "center".


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:06 am 
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Posts: 1452
Beatnik,
I'm impressed by your spreadsheet. I once used it but measured by arm in a hurry and got sketchy results.
Now I took the time to measure it correctly and your spreadsheet gives me *exactly* my current setup (almost to the millimeter), which is what a fitter recommended but with some changes (longer reach) based on my sensations.

Considering that my proportions are not so common (long legs, short upper body) and I'm riding a custom geometry frame, I'm even more impressed. :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 4:18 pm 
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I love your city frenk, what a beauty! i´ve been there a couple of times. And thx for your support, i´m glad for you.

(Arm length picture is not very good, best is to put your elbow on a table and measure it vertically)

For teddysaur:

It´s easy to do. Sit down in a warm chair for a while and touch it after, you will find your sitbones marks, measure them outside to outside and that´s your best saddle width.

I have a better trick but it´s more work. Fill a bag with sand or weaht or flour or meal and sit on it, your sitbones will leave a more accurate mark.

_________________
Biomechanical spreadsheet. Sizing&Fitting.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 8e319d185b


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:32 pm
Posts: 226
Location: Uk
Just put my details in and it comes out with the sames dimension I have now........ Spooky :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:54 pm
Posts: 33
Location: the Netherlands
I've got a question for you fitting experts :wink: . My left heel tends to turn out. Cleat position is set up the same on the left and right shoe. I don't know when it started, why it started or how it started.

I was recently checked for difference in leg length and stuff like that and it was all oke.

Fixed cleats fix the problem, but that doesn't mean the problem is solved. What could be the problem here? Q-factor? Saddle height? Saddle setback?

I'm slowly working towards the 'spreadsheat position.' Right now my saddle is a just bit lower and a bit more forward. It feels good so far. What pedal system was used for the spreadsheat? I'm running SPD-SL.

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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 2:23 am 
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beatnik wrote:
For teddysaur:

It´s easy to do. Sit down in a warm chair for a while and touch it after, you will find your sitbones marks, measure them outside to outside and that´s your best saddle width.

I have a better trick but it´s more work. Fill a bag with sand or weaht or flour or meal and sit on it, your sitbones will leave a more accurate mark.


Hi Beatnik,
Thanks. It is quite similar to the specialized saddles fitting.

Do I choose the saddle width closest to my sitbones mark?


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:46 pm 
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teddysaur wrote:
beatnik wrote:
For teddysaur:

It´s easy to do. Sit down in a warm chair for a while and touch it after, you will find your sitbones marks, measure them outside to outside and that´s your best saddle width.

I have a better trick but it´s more work. Fill a bag with sand or weaht or flour or meal and sit on it, your sitbones will leave a more accurate mark.


Hi Beatnik,
Thanks. It is quite similar to the specialized saddles fitting.

Do I choose the saddle width closest to my sitbones mark?


Always choose the wider ;). If your mark is 140 mm (outside-outside) you must choose a wider saddle than this.

_________________
Biomechanical spreadsheet. Sizing&Fitting.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 8e319d185b


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 11:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:14 pm
Posts: 161
Location: Portugal
Giant DK wrote:
Use the reference spot that my Retül fitter adviced me to if I change saddles. Meassure the spot where the saddle is 100mm wide. From that spot go 40mm forward. This is the reference spot. This is were you sit on the saddle which is why this is the spot you should compare with.

An example from my self. I have actually just set a new testbike (Storck) up with an Arione whereas my race bike, fittet with Retül, has an SLR.

My setback shall be 82mm. The distance from nose to reference spot on my SLR is 135mm. The distance on the Arione is 133mm, which means that the setback on the Stock should be 82-135+133=84mm. The setback should be increased with the difference between the nose-to-reference spot on the saddles.

Same goes for saddle height. Don't meassure along with the seattube, but do the comparison with the place where you actually sit on the saddle, which is the reference spot. Meassure from bottom bracket to this spot and transfer that meassurement the new saddle.

When you want to level the saddle don't messure from the front to the rear, but level the saddle from the front to the 100mm mark. This actually means that the saddle will look like it points a little down on most saddles because most saddle has a tendency to be a little lower on the middle (not Arione as it is one of the most leveled saddle - just straight) .

Try it! It works! I have just set 4 bicycles up based on this, and they feel 100% identical even though they all had different saddles.

But keep in mind that some saddles deflect more than others. I had to lower the Arione about 2mm after the set up, because it doesn't deflect as much as my SLR. You can't meassure this. You have to try.


That mothod is only to use when you change saddles and want to keep the same setback right?

My doubt is when you want to set the correct setback with a saddle with a long nose like the Arione. My setback should be 83mm but if I put the nose of the Arione 83mm behind BB, the whole saddle is too far back. The method you explain to get the reference spot is useful to set the correct setback?


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:54 pm
Posts: 33
Location: the Netherlands
Yes. This method will put the sweet spot in the correct place. With this method is doesn't matter how long the nose is.


Does anyone have an opinion on my 'problem' ? (few posts back)

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 8:20 pm 
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Posts: 10
My inseam in 87.5cm, my elbow-middle-finger distance is 49cm and my flexibility is 10.

Would you choose the L/56 or the XL/58?

Image

Thank you.


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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 8:20 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 10:51 pm 
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Posts: 340
That completely depends on the type of cyclist you are. Are you a racer? Or the complete opposite, just riding 2 hours on a sunny sunday? In the first case pick the L for sure, in the second case the XL.

What's your total length? Because that matters also.


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