bike fit critique

[jaredverbeke]

I am been trying to dial in my fit on my bike for some time now, and I would love some feedback from some of you all on the weight weenies. Another set of eyes would really be helpful here.

Some notes:

Im probably, at best, in the middle of the flexiblity range. Im not a stiff board but im not flexible either. I do a little yoga and stretching, but my hamstrings tend to be fairly tight.

I typically have a little neck soreness after 2-3 hrs in the saddle. Not sure how to correct that.

I think my hip angle needs to be 45 degrees and my arm to torso needs to be 45 degrees. Any idea on how to get there?

Thanks, Jared!

[Joso]

To properly get your fit angles the camera should be set further, lower and slightly to the left.

Why do you think you should have a 45º angle betwen arms and torso? I prefer a 90º angle betwen the complete arm (to hand) and torso with a slight elbow bend.

How often do you train? Your position on the bike is quite easy and you should not have neck soreness after just 3 hours.

My bets are:
- that your saddle set back is too large for you
- that you should train more
- that you should work on your core muscles
- that some day you should get that stem in the proper position

[CerveloBert]

That stack, and that stem... I'm no fit expert but it looks to me that you have a lot of room to drop and get lower but that will not help your neck. I also agree with what Joso said about your photography in this situation.

Some questions regarding your neck pain:
- Is your helmet heavy? That's what caused it for me before.
- Do you ride with your shoulders hunched? You might now know unless someone got an action shot of you.

[WMW]

Very tall position. It won't work if you want to go fast on the flat.

You need to have a semi-comfortable position that results in a horizontal torso. Flip stem and remove spacers. Relax your lower back and core and just bend over. Practice pedaling in that position while keeping your lower back and core relaxed. It will feel weird at first but you can adapt. Get a different stem if necessary.

For your neck, do neck stretches and exercises, and also practice releasing any unnecessary tension in that area.

[Marin]

Actually, setting your saddle further back will allow your legs to support your torso better, resulting in less pressure on hands and arms, and less desire to raise the bars - try it.

Visit Steve Hogg's site and follow his instructions, except for the really esoteric stuff.

[weenie]

kinda looks like the saddle is at maximum back position and frame might be a little short.

[mdusink]

I agree with marin. Put your seat back more and quite a bit lower. Make sure you can really pull up on the pedals. The lower position also helps with the saddle/handlebar drop.

[mdusink]

Also, how tall are you and what's your inseam?

[jaredverbeke]

Guys! Thank you for all the comments, I knew that y'all would come through. I've been cycling for about 4 years, last year was my biggest cycling year and I did 4,000 miles. This year I've ridden 1,500 miles and I've lost 5 lbs.

I'm about 6'2" tall, weight 175lbs and the bike pictured is a Trek Madone 60cm. My inseam is around 86cm.

I will look at moving the seat back a little and maybe slightly down and I'll take a new video with better camera position. Thanks!!

[droid1973]

Have you thought about visiting a fitter?

[grover]

I'd be careful moving the saddle back to far. It will make it more difficult to get over the top of the pedal stroke.

Rather I'd be interested in seeing what angle your saddle is on. Make sure you are on level ground (the axles are level). Look at the area of the saddle where your sit bones rest, 2/3 - 3/4 of the way back from the nose. Make sure this area is level to the ground which usually results in the nose being ever so slightly pointing up.

The thought is to try and stabilise your pelvis from tilting forward and maximise your ability to engage your core to support your upper body. Subsequently this allows you to relax your arms and shoulder girdle and will likely ease your neck fatigue.

You basically have to play with saddle angle to find a balance between too much nose up which will place excessive pressure on soft tissue at the front, and too much nose down which will tilt your pelvis forwards, disengaging core, resulting in you slipping forwards on the saddle and overusing back/neck extensors and arms to support you.

You may find by tilting your saddle it holds you further back on the saddle and effectively increases your setback (and seat height).

Once you find a good angle then set saddle setback with tibial tuberosity (google it) over pedal axle with cranks in the 3 o'clock position. It's an old rule of thumb, definitely not the be all end all but a great place to start. If your knees don't like that try 5-10mm behind pedal axle.

Your position also looks relatively short which can cause you to overuse your shoulder girdle and requires excessive neck extension to look down the road. Once you've stabilised your pelvis you should be able to lengthen your cockpit (and perhaps lower) and relax your upper body. I'd start by just flipping the stem to a negative position. Don't worry about removing spacers from underneath initially. You're looking for cockpit length, not reduced height.