Have any pictures? What are you using exactly? Thanks
I don't have a pic handy of my shoes right now, but they essentially look like the ones on this blog post (http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2 ... cleat.html
), which depicts a shoe modified to accept a 2-bolt SPD type cleat in the arch area. I had first heard about midfoot positioning from Steve Hogg, and that link that someone else posted above to his blog has a good photo of a shoe modified to accept a 4 bolt speedplay direct mount.
I was originally using a 2-bolt SPD cleat, which worked well for a few years, although they lack a bit of side to side rocking stability unless you use the cleats with the "PD-7410 Cleat Pontoons", and get a precise fit with the shoe sole and pedal body. Last summer I switched over to to a Bebop pedal as they use the same 2-bolt bolt pattern, but offer a lower stack height and a bit more of that side to side support that is trickier to achieve with the SPDs.
Things to watch out for are that:
-the candidate shoes have a relatively straight last that allows you to get proper lateral cleat positioning (some shoes narrow the sole a lot in the arch area).
-the candidate shoes have a nice flat mounting surface (On nylon soles shoes I have shaved and sanded down projections, and I think the Steve Hogg post mentions using bondo or other fibreglass filler to fill in depressions.
-2bolt or speedplay 4 bolt seem to be the easiest to fit, since they both simply need a flat surface. 3 bolt style pedals will probably need heavier use of that filler technique to build the curved radius required to support the cleat.
-Lots of old mountain bike shoes are well suited to this, once you strip the rubber off the sole. Also, Shimano Road shoes have a very nice flat area in the arch, with the cleats resting on either rib that runs lengthwise to stiffen the shoe.
A couple more interesting links: http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/03/mi ... mance.htmlhttp://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2 ... ition.html
Generally this will kill your sprint or "snap", due to reduced ankling, but can enhance sustained power output for exactly the same reason, and as someone else mentioned above, be sure to lower you saddle, and eventually bars to match. I had to go down about 1.5" although there is no hard and fast rule.