Can one run 46/36 with a SRAM Force or Red crankset? If so,

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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5shot
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by 5shot

I currently run a FSA compact Energy crankset with 46/36 tooth chainrings. I would like to run a SRAM crankset on my latest cross build but they seem to only be sold with the standard 50/34 compact cranksets. The SRAM website does list a 50/36 but not a 46/36. Do those running SRAM Force and Red cranksets simply purchase chainrings from another manufacturer (like FSA) to obtain the chainring combination they want or do SRAM 46 and 36 chainrings exist for the Force and Red cranksets?



Thanks.

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the_marsbar
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by the_marsbar

5shot wrote:Do those running SRAM Force and Red cranksets simply purchase chainrings from another manufacturer (like FSA) to obtain the chainring combination they want?


Why not? I can't really see the problem. Currently I am using a 46T Stronglight zicral ring. It even looks better than the grey SRAM 53T which came with the crankset.

by Weenie


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lancejohnson
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by lancejohnson

Yep, you can run that combo on a compact. None of their crank options come stock with it so you will need to get aftermarket rings. Sell the stock rings if you aren't goin to use them and get something like a TA, Stronglite, or Rotor (my personal choice for cx).
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5shot
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by 5shot

So, it turns out that simply replacing the SRAM Red chainrings with FSA rings doesn't work. I have a compact SRAM Red BB30 crankset with 50/34 rings. I also purchased FSA Super Road 46t and 36t rings. When I tried to install the FSA 46t ring, the pin that aligns with the crank arm was too long and contacts the inner side of the crank arm and prevents the ring from fitting properly against the spider. I noticed that the 50t SRAM chainring does not have such a pin.

So, do I grind down the pin until it no longer contacts the crank arm? Do I rotate the chainring one position so the pin is no longer aligned wth the crank arm? Do I look for other chainrings?

Thanks.

blazin-saddles
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by blazin-saddles

Just grind down the pin to clear. TA and Stronglight rings have a threaded pin so you can unscrew it instead.

I started off with a 39/46 Sram Force setup using a Stronglight CT2 outer ring but have since dropped to a 44t Gerbhardt outer ring as I found myself hardly ever using the inner ring anyway. I may just single ring next season.

slim83
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by slim83

You can cut or grind the pin down it will not hurt anything. It is there to catch the chain so it does not get wedged between the crank and ring if the chain goes over. You should not move it to another position though because it is also a timing mark for the ramps and pins so that everything lines up between the 2 rings and gives you maximum shift efficiency.

buzz
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by buzz

i am building a merida carbon team cross bike full sram red , a fsa 46 ring fits straight on n works fine

5shot
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by 5shot

buzz wrote:i am building a merida carbon team cross bike full sram red , a fsa 46 ring fits straight on n works fine


Buzz, I suspect that your Merida does not require a BB30 crank and bottom bracket. My friend rides a non-BB30 'cross bike and has Red components, including the crankset, and has no trouble fitting 46t/36t chainrings. I believe the issue is related to shape of the crankarms on the BB30 crankset.

In any event, the consesus solution, including advice from my new frame's manufacturer, is to simply file or grind down the pin so and that's what I am going to do.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Tamu8104
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by Tamu8104

I used a SRAM 46t chainring with my Force BB30 crankset and had to cut down the pin. It works great now.
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Powerful Pete
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by Powerful Pete

Some people are making specific chainrings.

You might want to reach out to Zanconato re: his new chainrings for SRAM.

http://bikesbyzank.blogspot.com/
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5shot
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by 5shot

Pete,

Thanks for the information. I will indeed reach out to Zanconato.

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zank
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by zank

Hi guys,
Pete, thank you for the link up. I'm still a month or two away from having real production chainrings though, but we are making progress. We are currently experimenting with a Teflon coating in addition to the hard anodizing. We are also trying to really dial in the machine programming to reduce cost as much as we can. We chose high end materials and coatings, so we are looking for any savings we can get from efficiency in machining so that we can keep the cost from getting way too high.
Thanks!
Mike

7speedbandit
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by 7speedbandit

Just make sure you get the standard crankset.

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maddog 2
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by maddog 2

the raceface cadence rings are available in 36 and 46t and are well made and shift well. Better than FSA IME.

by Weenie


nayr497
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by nayr497

And old thread, but I am having one of those broken bike stuff months and I'm about to lose my mind.

The FSA-made Cannondale Si carbon cranks on my cross bike went on me. The pedal thread inserts became unbonded. Out of warranty, sorry said FSA.

In talking to people a few suggested a SRAM Force crankset. I was running 42/38 (bought used, how it was set up, seemed to work okay.). Bought a new 2012 Force crankset with 53/39. Removed those rings, went to install the 42. It wouldn't clear the back of the spider arm, too curvy. Turns out the 42 ring was a Vision TT ring. Maybe another 42 ring would work, but in looking around I don't know if you can find one that is meant to use as an outer.

I called SRAM, they said a 46 wouldn't even be a great idea on a standard crank.

Getting tired of bike work and not enough riding, I just picked up a Force compact 46/36. Have compact on one road bike, never quite feels right, or so say my legs.

I guess off-road riding is different though. I'm a bit worried about compact and about the 46/36 jump causing chain drop.

Are others running SRAM cranks with 46 or 42 outer rings? I don't know if they've redesigned the spider or what and I know I had a TT/aero ring, but tech support told even a non-aero 42 wouldn't clear. (I didn't want to monkey around with cassettes, was hoping to keep my same gearing.)
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