Fork Shuttering while braking

[BmanX]

Here is the pictures of the bike and forks. Not bad and a work in progress.

[jeremyb]

yeah that fork looks realy good on that bike congrats.

Have you cut down your seatpost? Looks like you might have a lot of it in there?

take care
jeremy

[BmanX]

The post is only 230mm (152g) long so there is not that much in there. I have to still play with the bike a bit more. I probably should have gone with a 52cm frame and not the 54cm frame but the top tube length is perfect but the seat tube height is a bit taller than I like. I am right in between the sizes. I could have gone with a different frame but I got this one for $250.00 Canadian with the aluminum forks off of ebay. I ride a 54 for everything else. My future plans are to upgrade the brakes, cranks and derailleurs. Other than that, the Easton EC90 bars, post and Syntace stem are great. The Ultegra shifters, CB candies, wheels and tires are pretty good.

I have 7 bikes right now so I try to put the best parts on the road frame first, then the triathlon bike, then the cross bike and lastly the single speed road bike. Use the same process for the mountain bikes. The full suspension first then the single speed and the left overs go onto the wife's bike. She still ends up with a pretty good bike even thou she is happy with her other bike (Norco) that cost me $250.00

[1234tuba]

I'm also having a fork vibration problem. Just got my 06 Poprad with cantilevers and alloy fork. Running a King HS (installed by me and checked by another shop mech.), and the stock Avid shorty 4's. Every time I put any force on the front brake, the fork legs chatter horribly. I replaced the pads with coolstop techtronics and properly adjusted them (again, checked over by a mech at the shop. I cleaned the rims, and sanded down the brake pads, but the chatter still occurs. What can I do?!?!?

[Samu Ilonen]

My friends new bike that I put together. He just WANTED disks...

[LloydP]

wahey, another UncleJohn!

to be honest, I'd use discs on mine if there were hydraulic ergo levers readily available. just don't see the point of cable discs as I tried them on my mtb a while ago and really didn't like them, especially compared to V's. even had them on a hire bike more recently and really hated them. hydraulic is just so much better.

why the triple chainset?

[Samu Ilonen]

Ups, this was wrong topic to post this pix. That's 30-40-50 triple. Good stock ring sizes for road training and touring. Cassette is 12-27 10s.Ultegra.

[IanB]

To get I've just fitted a 4ZA Python to my titanium Omega. I seem to get a lot of fork stutter under hard braking. I've double checked everything suggested above (headset, pad toe-in) and can't seem to cure it. The only bit of play I can feel is the bushings on the front canti's (Cane Creek SSX's), but this is very minor. Riding slowly with the brake on hard can cause the stuttering so you can see whats going on, and there appears to be an alarming amount of flex for and aft in the fork legs. For a short while I ran a pair of steel Project 2's while I awaited delivery of the Python, and they didn't do it. I'm wondering are the Python's just a bit too flexy? Anyone else (Ridley riders perhaps) with a Python having this problem?

Thanks,

Ian

[BmanX]

The Redline frame in my picture is for sale. Check out the classifieds. I have two forks to go with it for $250.00

[ndbike]

The Redline frame in my picture is for sale. Check out the classifieds. I have two forks to go with it for $250.00

Does the Redline carbon fork have a carbon steerer or an alloy steerer? Any idea on how much the fork weighs?

[BmanX]

The redline fork came in at 660 with an uncut steerer and after cutting it down to size, it came in at 598g.

[tedgrant]

I have a spicer cycles 700c cross Ti fork (probably a morati copy). I had a tremendous shuddering problem at first, Gene , the owner of spicer (good guy) directed me to examine the brakes. I have plain old brand new nashbar cantis (5 bucks a pair and they can nearly flip you over the bars, lightweight as well). there was a bit of play inherent pushing the brake from front to rear on the bike (that so the brake will spring back out when you let off the brake). what I did was crank down the spring return tension bolt damn near til there was no more thread to grip. this put much more tension on the brake forcing it away from the wheel which in turn nearly eliminated the front to back play and stopped the shuddering. Im surprised people are having this problem with aluminum or carbon forks because they are so much more stiff. The Ti fork is amazing, you can see it flex up to about a half inch soaking up the bumps. it was unnerving at first but the welds are excellent on this taiwan fork so I have confidence now, I run a 50c front knobby because a 32c tire wont cut it on steep california fire roads. I will try the ceramic pads as well, thanks for the tip, yo.

[IanB]

I've been running ceramic pads for a couple of weeks, and now they've bedded in I have to say I find them awful
Braking distances have nearly doubled, and while the fork doesn't actually shutter as it did before, I don't think this is quite the solution I was looking for

With regards play in the front canti's, there is a small amount in my cane creek ssx's, but I still go back to the fact where I didn't have a shuttering problem with a pair of steel Project II's.

I'm going to go back to the old koolstops, but try and modify them to reduce the pad/rim contact area to see if that makes any difference.

[Oswald]

To get I've just fitted a 4ZA Python to my titanium Omega. I seem to get a lot of fork stutter under hard braking. I've double checked everything suggested above (headset, pad toe-in) and can't seem to cure it. The only bit of play I can feel is the bushings on the front canti's (Cane Creek SSX's), but this is very minor. Riding slowly with the brake on hard can cause the stuttering so you can see whats going on, and there appears to be an alarming amount of flex for and aft in the fork legs. For a short while I ran a pair of steel Project 2's while I awaited delivery of the Python, and they didn't do it. I'm wondering are the Python's just a bit too flexy? Anyone else (Ridley riders perhaps) with a Python having this problem?

Thanks,

Ian

I have the same with my Python fork. I think it's because the fork is to flexy. If you setup your front brake so that you have more modulation and less power, it helps.

[cdb]

I don't get any shuddering out of either of my bikes. The design of the Specialized fork is quite nice. In fact, the Zertz bands are pretty affective in reducing chatter, and the beefy carbon legs and aluminum crown ride very nicely. Excellent mud clearance. The fork is a tad bit heavy, but I didn't notice a disadvantage relative to the advantages it provides. I was able to bunny hop barriers with confidence last year whereas in previous years, didn't feel comfortable trying it. They also now make an all-carbon model.

In comparison, I have used Alan Carbon w/ alum steerer, Alpha-Q all carbon, and various other aluminum forks. I have always used Avid shorty brakes as well.