Need help about switching to flat bar

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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dkoor
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 28, 2017 2:10 am

by dkoor

First things first... since it's my first post here on these boards, hello everyone :) .

Now... to shorten things as much as possible... due to health issues I need to make a switch to flatbar on my Kona Rove 2013.
Specs on 2013 Rove is here: https://www.adventurecycling.org/defaul ... 'Grady.pdf and official page http://2013.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=rove

What I basically need to do is find trigger shifters and brake levers that are compatible with my rear derailleur SRAM Rival.
Apart from new Ritchey VentureMax bar, Kona is pretty much stock/unchanged.

I've looked into several threads before posting here, one of the most interesting one is:
viewtopic.php?t=101991#p868350

According to this, it seems that I could use basically ANY mountain shifter X5, X7, X9 with SRAM Rival... more specifically, I was looking into X7 https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/prod ... 15qex6sr4t ...

That being said, since bike industry makes quite big leaps practically every year in field of various upgrades, I wonder is my SRAM Rival from 2013 perhaps outdated even if it uses this EXACT ACTUATION technology?

Thanks for any tips guys.

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silvalis
Posts: 319
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Location: Brisbane

by silvalis

Thats correct. Any 10 speed Sram MTB shifter will work correctly.

As for your 10 speed rival group being outdated, sure. Rival comes in 11speed now. Which conveniently, if you throw a 10s cassette on the back and a 10s road or 10s sram shifter on it will also happen to shift correctly.

Sram 10 & 11 road and 10s mtb use the same shift ratio (exact actuation). This means you can swap between shifters/RDs between the groups, provided your cassette matches the shift lever.

Sram 11s and 12s mtb uses a different ratio (x-actuation or something).
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by Weenie


dkoor
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 28, 2017 2:10 am

by dkoor

Thanks silvalis. One another thing... I suppose I'm good with any mechanical MTB brake lever?
Or is there some thing I need to take care of when choosing among brake levers? Any concrete suggestions about these? Would Avid Speed Dial 7, Shimano BL-T610 and Tektro XL750 work?

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... ;orderby=2

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... ;orderby=2

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... ;orderby=2

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silvalis
Posts: 319
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Location: Brisbane

by silvalis

Soooo if I'm reading it correctly your kona has hayes cx disc calipers designed for short pull road brifters. The levers you listed are linear pull vbrake or mtb disc type - longer pull. This *might* mean that your brakes will come on hard and fast, however in practice you might not notice the difference.

Ideally you'd want short pull flatbar levers meant for rim calipers - off the top of my head, shimano R550 tiagra levers.
eg, https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... ;orderby=2

But again - It probably won't make any difference.
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dkoor
Posts: 14
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by dkoor

Yeah, Rove is fitted with Hayes CX-5...

Anyhow - thanks, you really helped me out here... 8)
Hope to get the flatbar conversion done asap. :thumbup:

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silvalis
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Location: Brisbane

by silvalis

I've been thinking of doing this myself :)
Personally I'd probably buy some cheap hydro brakes over a cable pull caliper, but it does mean you're tripling or quadrupling your braking costs right there...
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dkoor
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by dkoor

Few months ago I was thinking about TRP Spyres as they have quite good reviews, as I prefer to have mechanical brakes, but for the time being CX-5 will have to do the job.
I 'm not trying to be a smartarse here but I had awful experience on some lower end hydraulics (Avid Elixir 1s), so I tend either to avoid them or at least buy mid ranged ones.

So when funds allow, I will likely go for Spyres.

mattr
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Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

silvalis wrote:But again - It probably won't make any difference.
It will, using the wrong brake pull either leads to horrible wooden feeling brakes with no modulation, or it means you suddenly end up with no brakes after some very slight pad wear.

I've not experimented with this for ~15 years, so i can't remember which way round it is. And can't be bothered to check/work it out.

Use the right pull for the calipers.

dkoor wrote:I 'm not trying to be a smartarse here but I had awful experience on some lower end hydraulics (Avid Elixir 1s), so I tend either to avoid them or at least buy mid ranged ones.
Low/mid range avids are all that is bad about hydraulics. Every. Single. Set that i've ever had have failed. Replaced with either XT, SLX or Hope.

Just get yourself a complete set of SLX/XT brakes and get rid of the cable discs.

dkoor
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 28, 2017 2:10 am

by dkoor

Thanks for your input mattr, I honestly had no idea this conversion would be this complicated. Surely, for someone who's versed into what's compatible with what - this is probably a piece of cake but for me it surely is not. On top of that, manufacturers getting new ideas/product standards every year do not help either.

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silvalis
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Location: Brisbane

by silvalis

I think mattr is being a bit overly dramatic, but point taken.

Anyway, looked at that speed dial 7 lever (first link in your post) again - looks like it has a leverage adjustment knob. Buy that. Adjust the leverage.
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mattr
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by mattr

FWIW, the failing brakes i've seen. BB5 MTB calipers combined with road STis.
Long descent with badly/not bedded in pads saw the brakes failing near the bottom. Needed a good two or three turns on the cable adjuster to get anything like a braking action. So it has happened.

That also clears up my earlier point, about what failure you get with which combo!

by Weenie


dkoor
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun May 28, 2017 2:10 am

by dkoor

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rl5fswymio4wg ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l5qgl12r44tkh ... 2.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6edk1tkhlxq9s ... 3.jpg?dl=0

I finally posted here... did conversion some time ago, it worked really well and I'm satisfied with results 8) .

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