Cannondale SuperX 2017 Photos Release

The spirit of Grav-lo-cross. No but seriously, cyclocross and gravel go here!

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rasmussloth
Posts: 314
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 3:19 pm
Location: Denmark

by rasmussloth

The SuperX fork is longer than the Supersix fork. Thats why the head tube is shorter.

Go with reach/stack as guideline.

by Weenie


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maxima
Posts: 460
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:37 am

by maxima

Thank You Rasmussloth and lwrncc - your explanation with cyclocross geometry enlightens me.

rasmussloth wrote:The SuperX fork is longer than the Supersix fork. Thats why the head tube is shorter.

Go with reach/stack as guideline.

sorenanker
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:40 pm

by sorenanker

Has anyone tried 650b wheels and 2.1 tires? Since the wheel is centered in the frame, in theory it should be doable?
And has anyone managed to squeeze anything bigger than 40c in?
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stormur
Posts: 1173
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:50 pm
Location: FIN

by stormur

Good Cannondale finally quit rivetted brake braze, and QR ; perhaps after decade they finally figured out how to make non chattering fork :mrgreen: I wonder only how others figured it out... years ago (?) :roll:

If Cannondale figured out also how to paint bike that it won't rip off of the frame just from looking at it, I'll call it "innovation"... at least for Cannondale.

BB is "normal" ; use Cannondale cranks, not others ! Same 25.4mm seatpost. Heavier and harsher than any cheap 27.2 ( and if you read that 25.4 is for "bend" look at profile of 25.4mm post ;) - hint: it's not gonna happened ) . BTW even HM comes with alu post, so add 200€ to the expenses.

BB lower than plenty of road bikes, fork rake/ head tube angle I won't even comment. Is it CX or already touring ???
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wheelzqc
Posts: 266
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:51 pm

by wheelzqc

That's harsh ! My paint jobs so far have been good. Seatpost on the EVO HM seems ok, but maybe you're right there ?! As for the geo, you might be right for that. It's trending towards different geos. I like my older version CAADX geo, seems like a good compromise for road, gravel and CX duties.

Vladski21
Posts: 24
Joined: Thu May 25, 2017 12:25 pm

by Vladski21

Nice looking bikes

sorenanker
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:40 pm

by sorenanker

No one regarding 650b wheels? Dang - guess I'll have to be the guineapig. Does anyone know of a wheel set in 650b w. 14x12 axle or do I have to custom build something?
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Breadwinner Lolo Disc

grover
Posts: 1302
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 1:06 pm

by grover

any 27.5 mtb wheel with 142x12 rear hub. heaps around. just redish for Ai rear end. most have 12mm front option eg. those based around dt or sram or mavic hubs

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hmai18
Posts: 628
Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 12:19 am
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada.

by hmai18

FYI: Looks like this season's colour schemes/trim levels have been updated on the website.

http://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Produc ... 2a26710e87

grover
Posts: 1302
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 1:06 pm

by grover

sign me up for the orange SE model.

comes stock with wide and reliable rims, tyres, cassette/derailleur for everyday adventures. drop 33mm tubs with tighter cassette into it for race day. they've nailed that spec for off the shelf. very sensible. even put the top end SAVE post in it. nice touch.

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hatsunagi
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat May 13, 2017 4:29 am

by hatsunagi

Nice, cannondal-ism design and decals!

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andrewbn42
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 6:32 pm

by andrewbn42

How will this bike handle if you size up? I race a 56 road frame, but ride an xl mtb, and could run a 110mm stem on the 58, but it would be -17 slammed. I'm mostly worried that a 58 would get too long for me at 6 feet tall with 35 in inseam and +4.5 in on ape index. I like the xl mtb, which is very similar to an xl scalpel si. My road bike is a 56 with a really long stem for stability(140mm).

Thedaniel
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:34 am

by Thedaniel

grover wrote:
Thu Oct 20, 2016 9:48 pm
BB30-83 is 46mm diamter for PF30 style bottom bracket. It is 83mm wide but offset 5mm to the non-drive side. Think of it as a 73mm wide shell with 10mm added to the non-drive side.

The Ai part relates to the chainline required to line up with the Ai (offset/dishless) rear wheel. The chainline needs to be 6mm wider to be perfect.

I fitted a SRAM Force1 BB30 crankset with a Quarq spider. The non-drive side crank bolt says 'do not disassemble'. I disassembled and removed the spindle. I measured it as 118mm.

Luckily I had a 124mm spindle laying around (Cannondale and SRAM use the same interface so different length spindles are easy to come by in Cannondale spares). By installing that spindle I effectively push the chainline 3mm wider. So I added 3mm chainring spacers between the ring and the spider. To actually install the crankset into the bottom bracket I didn't utilise the preload ring that comes on SRAM cranks. Just spacers and a wavy washer like on Cannondale Hollowgram cranks.

Of course this pushes the q-factor wider by 6mm to 151mm (6mm longer spindle) but that's still narrower than the stock q-factor of 155mm.

I'm using a 1x drivetrain so it's a little less sensitive to chainline. If you were using a 2x drivetrain you'd want to get it perfect just by using a longer spindle as chainring spacers wouldn't be possible. In that case you need a 130mm spindle and your q-factor would be 157mm.

Personally I wouldn't bother trying to install a SRAM crankset when you've already got Cannondale Hollowgram cranks, except that I wanted to use a Quarq I already owned.
I’m also trying to use a sram red crankset with a quarq on my super x. How’d you manage to remove the spindle? I removed the NDS bolt but it seems like the spindle is bonded on to the arm too because it doesn’t budge

boots2000
Posts: 1394
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm

by boots2000

Looks good- too bad about the AI cranks and rear wheel- I would never buy just because of that.

grover
Posts: 1302
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 1:06 pm

by grover

Thedaniel wrote:
Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:53 am
I’m also trying to use a sram red crankset with a quarq on my super x. How’d you manage to remove the spindle? I removed the NDS bolt but it seems like the spindle is bonded on to the arm too because it doesn’t budge
Thread the NDS bolt back in until ~2mm of the bolt head is still protruding from the crankarm. Then use a plastic/rubber hammer to hit the bolt head to knock the spindle free from the crankarm. You need to somehow support the back of the crankarm while allowing the spindle to move freely away. The park tool crown race setter was perfect. The spindle slides into it and the crankarm rests perfectly on the end of the pipe.

by Weenie


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