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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:51 pm 
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Location: NorCal
I am building up my 1st cross bike and need to get a stem picked out. For bike fit, I am setting up my saddle position exactly like my road bike, but should my reach be shorter? I ride fairly extended on the road bike. My best guess would be to go 1-2 cm shorter.

Thanks in advance, Jeff

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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:16 pm 
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I would bring in the reach a bit on your CX bike. 1-2cm s a good starting place. Also you will most likely want your bars 1-2cm higher on the cx bike as well.

Saddle position: most want it close to the same as road bike. Some prefer it a bit further forward, as that can aid transition to out of the saddle efforts when getting on the gas a bit. Also, the more forward biased position matches well wit the shorter more intense efforts of cross, as compared to a road bike setup.

This is all preference though. If you're using the bike more for gravel and long ries, I would keep your saddle the same as road bike and be less aggressive in shortening reach.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:09 pm 
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Just bought myself a Giant TCX Advanced SL and I used the following settings :

Saddle position / setback = exactly te same as the racebike.
Saddle hight = -0,5 cm on the crossbike.
Saddle tip - handle bar centre = -2cm on the crossbike.
Stem = 0 degrees ( because of the shorter head tube on the crossbike )/ -6 degrees on the racebike
Saddel - handlebar drop = -1,5 cm on the crossbike.

Hope you can do something with this info.. I started with a similar drop and a -10 degree stem with an extra spacer on the crossbike but now the position is a lot better for me. ( no more back pains. :D )

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:08 pm 
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The head tube on the CX is only shorter because the fork is longer - stack will be similar.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:43 pm 
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Are you racing cross and if so, are you placing high? I.e., are you completely flat out and trying for an advantage on every kind of terrain and every racing situation? If so, you need to optimize your position for serious racing. These days, that means you'll be riding higher speeds and need to think about aerodynamic position (yes, even in cross) and body leverage just like you do on the road. I wouldn't compromise my position for one small portion of terrain and instead think about where I need to make the greatest gains. That means you position yourself pretty much like your competitive position on the road.

If you just race cross to finish, or for the fun of it, or are racing a little cross and riding a lot of gravel, I wouldn't automatically put you in a randonneur kind of positioning either. Those are the old "Intro to Cyclocross" guidebook concepts, but these days riders are often able to ride a lower, longer position and actually feel better doing it. So why throw away a position you've been able to tune and that works for you? Sometimes cross can be a great way to find a better position on your bike, so I'm not dismissing a change in fit, just saying you should change fit with an objective in mind. If you can go faster and feel better, it's worth it. But that's always an individual matter and nobody on this forum (unless they've met you and ridden with you) can say much about it. Flexibility, chest clearances, body morphology and proportions, and your relative capabilities in power generation and breathing all affect that position. Honestly, I see more fit issues in cross than in any other part of cycling, and it's usually because people are told some old concept that probably was never true to begin with and that isn't necessarily relevant to you. Before you can even be fitted for a stem, you need to ride yourself into the bike and the discipline -- race cross races the way you want to race them, on the bike you want to use (this one, presumably), and decide what you need.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 10:31 pm 
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Problem is, most cross bikes have shorter reach ( and some more stack), so, unless you use a much longer stem, your reach will be automatically shorter. But I agree with 11.4. I would also stick to my trusted position as much as possible... Reason also why I stick with pure 'race' bikes for winter training, as those 'endurance bikes' may have a little more relaxed stearing and more comfort + tyre clearance, but it's hard to replicate your usual position on them without a -17° stem (on those look ugly on a steep slooping frame)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 10:36 pm 
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Thanks! I will shoot to match the road position and see where it goes from there. I am going to step away from criteriums and want to try focusing on cross racing next year.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:46 am 
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Marin wrote:
The head tube on the CX is only shorter because the fork is longer - stack will be similar.
Of course, thats dependent on bottom bracket height too...... ;o)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:47 am 
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And FWIW my position on the cross bike is pretty much within measurement error of the same as the road bike....... allowing for the fact that i use different saddle, different bars, different pedals and longer cranks.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:38 am 
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pritchet74 wrote:
Thanks! I will shoot to match the road position and see where it goes from there. I am going to step away from criteriums and want to try focusing on cross racing next year.


which bike?

Just curious...


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 4:43 pm 
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I tried as much as possible to replicate my road position on my CX race bike. I did 'tilt' the handlebars up a little so that the top of the hoods where higher and I did eventually take my stem length back a CM from 130 on my road to 120. I think I might take it back another 10 to 110 for next CX season to sharpen up the steering a little more (I am 6-4 riding a 61cm bike so am not the best at working through tight series of CX turns). As for the saddle I definitely feel a more power position, a pushed forward saddle, is a another little tweek worth trying.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:49 pm 
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rasmussloth wrote:
pritchet74 wrote:
Thanks! I will shoot to match the road position and see where it goes from there. I am going to step away from criteriums and want to try focusing on cross racing next year.


which bike?

Just curious...


Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:43 pm 
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Nice frameset - saw them on eBay a few weeks ago. :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 7:28 pm 
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Ya, the deal was too good to pass up. I have been toying with the idea of diving into cross racing for years, but now I have a good excuse! I am going to build it up with Record 10s.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 4:39 am 
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Marin wrote:
The head tube on the CX is only shorter because the fork is longer - stack will be similar.


This isn't necessarily true. Most CX bikes have a slightly to dramatically higher BB. So that can negate the increased fork height.


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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 4:39 am 


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