"Older" SRAM Force Levers w/TRP HYRD Brake Calipers

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allenpg
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by allenpg

I'm wondering what anyone has experienced using the new TRP HY/RD brake calipers with "older" 2011 SRAM Force levers. I've heard that overfilling the calipers with mineral oil helps. I'll probably eventually upgrade, but looking for something better than Avid BB7. Thanks!

-Pete

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

I am about to do a Trek Boone build with this very set up so not yet tried it myself. I have looked at comments on this issue on the web and it seems at some point that TRP made changes. Serious complaints seem to be older. More positive reviews recently so maybe there was some change. Either way it sounds like there will be a lot of lever travel no matter what one does. This is OK as long as you can lock up the wheels if needed.

The one thing I wonder about is attaching the cable on the "short" side of the pinch bolt. This would effectively move the pistons more with a given amount of cable pull. I have seen this suggestion but not actually heard feedback from someone who has tried this.

I did see a comment from one user who said he was happy with the improvement in lever throw by going to a thicker rotor. Tolerances would get tight but if it clears, than you're good. BTW who makes "fat" rotors?

They say new Shimano levers work best because of increased cable pull but I am so fed up with Shimano's lack of backwards/forward compatibility, breaking cables, etc. that I am becoming exclusively a Sram guy. Love that all of my 10 speed and 11 speed stuff works together. Prefer the shifting and hood shape also.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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allenpg
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by allenpg

I just ordered my brakes. I'll let you know how they work once I get them installed. BTW, I've heard the 2015 models address many of the previous issues.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Just finished the build.

Lever action is fantastic. Lever travel stops around halfway to the bars. This is with early (not very first) generation Sram Force. Cable routing on the Boone is very straight so there is minimal cable drag. The overall feel is remarkably close to full hydraulic. Will road test it soon and then post more feedback. Set up was flawless.

I bought a Shimano spacer kit because I am running 160 mm rotors. I installed the included reciprocal washers (like the rounded ones you see for canti and V brake pad holders). Are these really necessary? They look a bit funky and move the caliper that much further away from the mounting posts. Also in photos online, nobody seems to use them. Thoughts?
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

allenpg
Posts: 136
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 5:34 am

by allenpg

I got these installed my CX bike and now my wife's. Way nicer than the Avid BB7s. I found having an inline adjuster (especially for the front) really helps tweak lever pull distance. Even though these are discs, they don't have same stopping power as regular hydraulics and what seems less than Ultegra 6800. Still, I think these are a nice brake for the price and weight.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Yes I agree, with the stock pads, stopping power wasn't significantly different then top performing rim brakes. Now in the wet - that is a very different story. For me the choice of discs was to prevent destroying a set of rims every winter or two. After a short ride I am very pleased with the performance and completely happy with the amount of lever travel and feel.

I think the level of stopping power comes down to the type of pad used. IIRC the TRP HY/RD ships with metallic pads. I have read elsewhere that changing to a Shimano resin pad increased stopping power significantly.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

allenpg
Posts: 136
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 5:34 am

by allenpg

My wife rode about 30 miles yesterday on these brakes and thought they were a huge upgrade from the BB7s. She has Elixirs on her MTB, and felt these were very close. She has brand new SRAM Rival 22 shifter/brake levers.

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djm
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by djm

I thought the HYRD ships with a metallic/organic combination pad?

Also I've read that topping up the resevoir on the 2014 model will decrease lever travel and that the lever travel on the 2015 version has been made shorter. There's a YouTube-video from *bike explaining the differences between the MYs.

BB7s are crap compared to HY/RD, really.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Yes djm, I think you are correct on the pads. I have heard other pads can increase stopping power. However I am not sure why more power would be needed - maybe in a MTB situation, but for cyclocross or road there is plenty of stopping power. I was playing around with a friends hydraulic set up today and the difference in lever feel is not that much.

I strongly recommend the TRP HY/RD for anyone who wants to keep a set of non hydraulic shifters going.

Can anyone comment on if they think a 140 mm rotor is adequate for road use? I have only ever used 160s.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Some more relevant info. A video has been posted showing a mod to reduce lever travel for TRP HYRD brakes combined with Sram, Campy, and older Shimano levers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aBa3sGUUhs This mod has been mentioned as a possibility by others on this board but this is the first example I have seen.

I made the modification on my front caliper and the lever travel was reduced by nearly 50%. As you would expect the effort required to depress the lever is increased by a similar factor. The level feel is now very much like any cable actuated caliper brake. Not bad but a definite deterioration. I haven't tested it on the road but just on the stand I think it is a very worthwhile mod for those who want earlier engagement.

I haven't seen anything official from TRP on this (the video is not on their Youtube channel) but the video is identical to some official TRP how to videos so :noidea:

I haven't been able to find any comparison between the TRP HYRD and the Juin Tech R1. Curious to know how they compare in terms of lever travel and lever feel. The R1 is also a closed system and I understand this is not a good idea in the long run. Apparently you never have to bleed them. A bit suspicious. Anyone have more info?
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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ajh
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by ajh

I found that the travel issue on the TRP Parabox R as well and there was no way to do this mod so I changed over to a Hope Vtwin system and never looked back. Way better power and no issues with lever travel. I even had to put in some dead space to get the travel in the lever to be more than 5-10mm before engaging the brakes. One finger lockup is easily possible and the pads last a long time. They even have proper pad wear adjustment which never worked on the Parabox R as I had to pull the cables so tight, by depressing the activation lever, to get the brake lever to no go to the bar I effectively blocked the reservoir.

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