Sram CX1
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- the_marsbar
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 5:23 pm
- Location: Denmark
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Looks nice
But no levers for hydraulic brakes? Shame on you, SRAM... That's a huge fail IMHO.
But no levers for hydraulic brakes? Shame on you, SRAM... That's a huge fail IMHO.
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Interesting that SRAM makes a CX product of its own. Shimano, in contrast, tends to fill the gaps with single product releases (e.g. R series compact cranks, CX FD and cranks).
Is there any technical reason why SRAM couldn't do the same? Totally seeing the need for a product line on the MTB side with the incompatible hub, but for the CX, isn't really just crank and RD, and maybe a shifter-less left brake needed?
Is there any technical reason why SRAM couldn't do the same? Totally seeing the need for a product line on the MTB side with the incompatible hub, but for the CX, isn't really just crank and RD, and maybe a shifter-less left brake needed?
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX
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- Posts: 87
- Joined: Sat Sep 23, 2006 11:30 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
This really is just a fill-in few components to make a CX1 group. New RD works with any Exact Actuation lever (10/11spd mechanical OR Hyrdo) - the CX1 shifters are just Force 22 with different logos and shifter guts removed from one side.
And CX1 crank is exactly the same as the Force crankset with a different chainring. They just added CX1 logos like the shifters.
As for chain and cassette they ARE just Force 22.
So buy the CX1 RD and chainring, pair with whatever 110bcd crankset and SRAM 10/11spd shifter/cassette/chain you want and you are away.
And CX1 crank is exactly the same as the Force crankset with a different chainring. They just added CX1 logos like the shifters.
As for chain and cassette they ARE just Force 22.
So buy the CX1 RD and chainring, pair with whatever 110bcd crankset and SRAM 10/11spd shifter/cassette/chain you want and you are away.
Last edited by scott_racer on Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Start flat out ... then pick the pace up halfway
- rasmussloth
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 3:19 pm
- Location: Denmark
I believe the groupset is branded as "Force" because SRAM is planning on releasing a "Red" version 2015 when they launch hydraulic.
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- Posts: 316
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:40 pm
- Location: Beer City
Does anyone know if online retailers are selling these yet?
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- Shop Owner
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2005 3:12 pm
- Location: cochem -germany
They say it will come in July.
CX RACE 12.12.15 http://www.cx-sport.de/content/cyclocro ... cup-cochem
cx1 will be available within this or the next week here in the states. I would imagine you would see it just as soon in AUS!
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction."
743power wrote:cx1 will be available within this or the next week here in the states. I would imagine you would see it just as soon in AUS!
Sweet, thanks for the info.
I'm not traditionally a SRAM guy, but 1x11 is quite innovative. I'm planning to try it out on a do it all gravel grinder/road bike.
Just got my cx1 38t chainring the other day, 72g w/o hardware. Rd should drop in any day now =)
When i first started building my cx i went full Force22, now i need help gutting my left shifter. Found an old howto on cxmagazine but its for old force, Anyone has any ideas?
When i first started building my cx i went full Force22, now i need help gutting my left shifter. Found an old howto on cxmagazine but its for old force, Anyone has any ideas?
- the_marsbar
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 5:23 pm
- Location: Denmark
- Contact:
You could also sell the left shifter, and get one of the empty SRAM shifters, a CX1 or a SRAM 900 single speed lever: http://www.sram.com/sram/road/component/shifters
(Assuming you are running canti brakes).
(Assuming you are running canti brakes).
To remove guts from Force 22 left shifter (working from memory)
- remove shifter hood
- remove brake lever by removing circlip on pivot pin and pushing pivot pin out
- remove shift internals cover on inside of shift body by removing 3 screws
- on outside of shift body there is one screw stopping a metal rod that runs through the shifter, remove it and push metal rod out
- you should then be to able to wiggle out the shifter spool/spring
- there is a rod that the shift lever pivots on held in by a circlip. remove circlip, rod and shift lever
- MAKE SURE to replace rod that runs through shift body and screw that retains it on the outside of shift body. This rod greatly stiffens the shift body, you're likely to snap/crack the shift body if you leave it out.
- reinstall brake lever and shifter hood
- remove shifter hood
- remove brake lever by removing circlip on pivot pin and pushing pivot pin out
- remove shift internals cover on inside of shift body by removing 3 screws
- on outside of shift body there is one screw stopping a metal rod that runs through the shifter, remove it and push metal rod out
- you should then be to able to wiggle out the shifter spool/spring
- there is a rod that the shift lever pivots on held in by a circlip. remove circlip, rod and shift lever
- MAKE SURE to replace rod that runs through shift body and screw that retains it on the outside of shift body. This rod greatly stiffens the shift body, you're likely to snap/crack the shift body if you leave it out.
- reinstall brake lever and shifter hood
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