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 Post subject: CX1 Hydro or Di2 R785
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:09 am
Posts: 71
Just about to build a Crux and looking a groupos. CX1 was the original preference as the idea of no front derailleur was nice for simplicity and weight and the hydro discs are ideal. Now I've been looking around at prices however and it seems that the hydro Di2 with ultra parts would not be too much more expensive.

My question to you, spend the extra $ for Di2 or go for the simpler, lighter and debatably more bullet proof option of CX1?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:26 am
Posts: 14
With the CX1 Hydro you get a clutched rear derailleur...that's a big plus in my book.


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Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:24 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:26 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:25 pm
Posts: 14
Location: NC USA
I personally chose R785. Fully closed shifting & braking minimizes in-season servicing and ensures consistent performance. While I will be running a dual set-up, 44t x 38t / 11-28, I have three friends that will be running R785 as a single ring set-up, 40t / 11-28, with custom programmed shifting, right lever buttons = upshift and left lever buttons = downshift.

Another consideration may be whether you use the bike for purposes other than CX racing. If you plan to do any gravel events or ride it on the road occassionally, you may run out of gear with a single ring set-up.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 6:01 pm
Posts: 1519
Personally, I hate the look and especially the feel of the Sram hydro levers.

The Shimano feel much better in hand (to me).

After having Di2 on my road and CX bikes for a few years, it would be really hard to go back. It's so nice being able to go basically an entire season without having to replace a shift cable or adjust the shifting.

Going to hydro brakes would mean even less of a hassle (once you get your rotors properly spaced on the wheelsets).

Nothing stopping you from running a 1x setup on the Di2. You will miss the clutch der, but you can run either a narrow wide chainring or a traditional chain guard/catcher.

I ran 1x10 setups on my cx bikes for years before getting Di2. The weight savings, simplicity, and reliability were well worth it. But, the front Di2 shifting is amazing. So, I'm taking the weight hit for a bit more versatility.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:09 am
Posts: 71
Thanks for your help! How hard is it to program the Di2 to shift up on one lever and down on the other for 1x11? Is it incorporated in the program or is it more of a hack?

Cheers
bfno

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S-Works Venge - Red 22 - LW - Zipp
S-Works Shiv TT - Red - Zipp
S-Works CruX [WIP]
Specialized Langster Pro - American Classic - Sram
Pinarello Dogma 60.1 - Apex - Campagnolo


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:25 pm
Posts: 14
Location: NC USA
I haven't received my R785 levers yet, still backordered, so I haven't played with the software yet but I believe this is easy to program. No hack required.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 3:48 pm
Posts: 250
Location: The Netherlands
I have both CX1 and Di2 and Di2 is far better with discs.
With Di2 before approaching 90 degrees curves or switchbacks, in the last meter you can brake and move from 36 to 39 T on the from in half pedal round, and you're already set to sprint and get back on speed again.
With 1x11 setup, assuming you're on the 12T cog and need to get on 18T cog you need a couple of pedal strokes for shifting before approaching the curve, wasting the advantage of having discs and brake on the very last meter then


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:09 am
Posts: 71
If I went the Di2 route would I be able to/would it be worth while having either sprint shifters or climber switches? Also another Di2 Q, if I have the internal battery I have to charge it from an SM-EW90-A or B junction box right? An SM-EW67 wouldn't work would it?

Also from my calculations, going Di2 1x11 is actually cheaper than running mechanical CX1 hydro. This seems like a no brainer now! What crankset would you guys recommend for 1x? I was looking at going rotor cranks with Wolf Tooth chainrings

_________________
S-Works Venge - Red 22 - LW - Zipp
S-Works Shiv TT - Red - Zipp
S-Works CruX [WIP]
Specialized Langster Pro - American Classic - Sram
Pinarello Dogma 60.1 - Apex - Campagnolo


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:18 pm
Posts: 104
The programming is incredibly easy however the software is kinda expensive for home use. Any decent shop should have a copy and they can do it for you in about 30mins.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:09 am
Posts: 71
I thought the software was free from http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com ? Is this not the right software?

Edit: Oh wait I see what you mean, the actual hardware to connect to the computer is expensive

_________________
S-Works Venge - Red 22 - LW - Zipp
S-Works Shiv TT - Red - Zipp
S-Works CruX [WIP]
Specialized Langster Pro - American Classic - Sram
Pinarello Dogma 60.1 - Apex - Campagnolo


Last edited by bfno on Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:28 pm
Posts: 6
How about the new XTR electronic rear mech, it has a clutch, but could you use it with Di2 road levers?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:09 am
Posts: 71
I believe it is compatible but it is very expensive in comparison to the ultegra at the moment!

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S-Works Venge - Red 22 - LW - Zipp
S-Works Shiv TT - Red - Zipp
S-Works CruX [WIP]
Specialized Langster Pro - American Classic - Sram
Pinarello Dogma 60.1 - Apex - Campagnolo


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:28 pm
Posts: 6
Just checked, about £200 diff! might be an option when it trickles down to xt.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:24 am
Posts: 953
I have Di2 on my cross bike with cantilevers. It's amazing. I trust Shimano, they've made great brakes for years, I'd buy Di2/hydros without any hesitation.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:09 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:41 pm
Posts: 27
bfno wrote:
Just about to build a Crux and looking a groupos. CX1 was the original preference as the idea of no front derailleur was nice for simplicity and weight and the hydro discs are ideal. Now I've been looking around at prices however and it seems that the hydro Di2 with ultra parts would not be too much more expensive.

My question to you, spend the extra $ for Di2 or go for the simpler, lighter and debatably more bullet proof option of CX1?


CX-1 is a race group. If you plan on doing anything other than racing with the bike go with the Shimano double. I have raced on a 1X cross bike for 6 years and think it's the way to go for racing but my second (pit) bike is a double that I can throw a larger cassette and 50 tooth ring on in the off season and use it as a gravel race/explore bike.


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Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:09 am 


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