Time iclic2 pedals

[astranoc]

I have sent an email to Time to tell my story, but no reaction after 5 days. I said that I receive better comments concerning the Iclic 2's and whether we could agree on a replacement. I'm holding them partly responsable for my comming 6 weeks of pain.

I had exactly the same problem, sent an email to Time and after a week they actually didn't care much to give me an explanation, they were actually very dismissive of the problem and told me to go back to my retailer if I think i have problems with the pedals. They just lost a customer (had 2 RXS, and then 3 iclics), sold mine and bought Look for all the bikes.

[gede]

Reading all this, I'm more and more convinced to replace the Iclic's with the RXS or Look Kéo's. Only thing that I doubt is that a dealer one's said that he had seen multiple RXS pedals with broken rears. Anyone experiences with that?

Furthermore, I'm wondering whether I can hold Time responsible for my crash and if a consumer organisation could help me with getting at least an answer from Time. At this moment, I try to warn as many people as possible.

[natiedean24]

Put me in the club. I'm still riding strong on my Carbon RXS pedals. 10,000 miles thusfar. If I had some spare cash, I would consider securing a spare set now.

[WeightySteve]

I try to warn as many people as possible.

I tried that (in this and an older thread), got flamed a bit, so stopped.

Sorry to hear your story gede, as I said, the moment i had any hesitation about faith in the pedals during a sprint they were sold within a week.

10+ years ago, I used to race 500m TTs on the track with Equipe's with metal front and back cleats ( yes, I know i should have been strapped in! ) and I had 100% confidence in them. I even pulled a back wheel out once, but never had any doubts about the pedals or cleats letting go. They were simply the best pedal/cleat combo ever designed imo. Might still have been on them if I could have found new shoes with the bolt holes. But alas, not even Time kept that up with their shoe ranges

Like you that's exactly why I went for "give me the best Time do" when I returned to cycling a couple of years ago. That was iClic Ti-Carbon, and I was frankly amazed how much of a step backward (basicaly to the point of non-functional imo) Time had "developed" their pedals to.

I'm very suprised you're even entertaining the idea of a replacement from Time (even a free one).

My recommendation would be NOS PD 7810s. (Still not sure I can feel comfortable on a plastic/carbon pedal body, but I guess Shimano must be confident about them, so might go for 7900's eventually when i'm forced to upgrade again).

[gede]

You are right. I will never feel confident again with Time Iclics, even not a remake version 2, 3 or 20. I'm looking for that old confident clear 'snap' feeling again and without the plastic rubbish, even if it costs me a 100 grams extra. I'd rather loose a 100 grams myself and look for a 100 % safe pedal. I'm sick of sitting in the chair here with 6 broken ribs because I did not take action immediately the moment my bad feelings with Time started. I never worked harder during the winter with > 10 hours of fitness each week and all of that is gone thanks to Time and an - in my eyes - underdeveloped and untested product put on the market. Even the cheapest SPD pedals of 50 euro's are a 100 % more reliable and resistant than the piece of rubbish were Time asks 200-250 euro's for.

I like the robust look of the DA pedals. The only thing against it, is that I'm a Campy fan and all my bikes are complete with Campy. I see hardly any comments on the Record pedals. What about them?

[andyindo]

This sucks! I was going to get the new iclic2's! I currently run keo's but not too happy with them. Used to have dura ace 7810's and those were really good. Dont want to put shimano on my campy bikes either......Such dilemmas.

[HammerTime2]

Give me a break. If you like Shimano pedals, just put them on your "Campy" bike.

Maybe you got here by mistake and meant to go to http://brandsmustnotclash.com .

[gede]

I think you have a point. Unless someone can give me good feedback of the Records, I should buy the DA and have something were I can put my confidence in. Never again, it will be Time. Time has proven to choose for commercial arguments and not for customer satisfaction and safety. I needed such a pair of plastic cleats every month and they ask 15 euro's for a stupid plastic plate!

[Bigger Gear]

Not be a complete shill, but I have 2 pair of new in box RXS Carbon for sale. New cleats, new pedals in box current 2011/12 model. I have them listed in the classifieds too. I have made the switch to the S-brand that everyone loves to hate

PM if interested.

[FreaK]

....Dont want to put shimano on my campy bikes either......Such dilemmas.

You'd be far from the first. IN fact most of the serious people i see riding DA pedals have otherwise campy bikes. Campy's pedals are well made, but they don't seem to be on anyone's shortlist, whereas the shimanos have a character similar to what people move to campy for, that sort of solidity.


back on topic:
I put a few hundred km on the iClick 1 last year. The Racer model, red cleats. For the first few days to a week, they seemed to me to be exactly the pedal i was looking for. Almost walkable cleat, vs Look, low profile and the feel of the float was good, clip in and out was nice too. But once i put a bit of wear into them the occasional misclip -note: i don't always perfectly clip in anyway so at first i didn't blame the pedals- became more frequent, and I started to notice hotspots. Eventually they just didn't feel so great. I'm weird, I switched back to my trusty boat anchor CrankBros Quattros. I rode Speedplay Zeros for a year or so and found that they were a wee bit loose for my tastes.
I'd be interested to try the new iClick 2 though to see if the plates really help stabilize the situation.

[Omiar]

Back in the younger days, I had the Time Equipe Pro pedals - magnesium body, steel axle. This was a very solid platform, never had any problems. Shoe cleats were made from bronze? and were very durable.

Now I have the IClic2-s, it wasn't the same rock solid feeling in the first couple of rides, but i'm beginning to like them very much. Comparing to the old pedals, they are much more comfortable. Click, ride, don't think about them, ride some more.

[arcticycle]

I've been riding the Iclic2 racer's for 150km now and initial impression is that they are good, stable, easy clipping, no false clip-ins at all. Previous pedals were Shimano Ultegra which I used for 20 000km. We'll see how these work after some more riding.

[murph100]

Used Time RXS for years, very happy with them, but kept breaking the rear bit off the cleat. Then I tried 2 versions of the iClics, bloody terrible, false clip-ins, plastic feeling and cleats broke in weeks. I gave up last year and switched to Speedplay Zeros, love them, since then I haven't looked back ... or down !

[Wingnut]

Used Time RXS for years, very happy with them, but kept breaking the rear bit off the cleat. Then I tried 2 versions of the iClics, bloody terrible, false clip-ins, plastic feeling and cleats broke in weeks. I gave up last year and switched to Speedplay Zeros, love them, since then I haven't looked back ... or down !

I used Speedplay Zero's for years and tried to like them but the cleats wore down easily, got tired of having to lube the cleats, the pedal/cleat interface rocked (poor stability) and the cleats were expensive to replace. So I went back to my Time RXS's and it was like going from night to day!

The Time's had a much more stable platform, cleats lasted so much longer and no more lubing them...I'm never going back to Evilplay, I mean Speedplay...

[b0bafett]

I'm using the iClic 1st generation racer whites. iClics are now going for less than half the retail price at competitivecyclist (maybe clearing stock before the revamped version). After using them, I think they are worth the discounted price to begin with. I fully agree & experience all the mis/half/non/accidental clicks during riding.

One position which will result in disengagement is : try lifing the inside of the shoe or supinate your foot, then twist your heel inwards - un-clic like magic. Sounds like a unaturally & unlikely movement? Not while cornering & shifting the knee position. Ideally the knee should touch the top tube but some may corner 'MotoGP' style & point the knee inwards unintentionally, & end up riding Speedway (inner heel on the road) after accidentally unclicking.

The reason they stay on my bike is the color match with my white frame.