The tech doc is sometimes hard to find. On the MAIN PAGE, when you pull down the Cycling tab to choose your region, at the bottom there is an option for tech docs. You will find it there, as the 9000 dealer manual.
If your bike derailleur cable exit point is somewhat close to the line, you may not notice. Basically, the cable should pass close to the arm pivot point, but not too close. This allows the cage to move a large amount at first, before the cable gains leverage on the system. By the time the cage is actually pushing the chain against the ring, you have a ton of leverage. this is how Shimano managed to shorten the throw AND lower the effort.
Cable not close enough to the pivot and the cage won't move far enough. Cable too close to the pivot and the initial lever effort is very high, or the cage does not move at all.

Thanks! Mine didn't come with the plastic setup guide, but I was able to figure out which way to set it from the dealer manual. You would think that sort of information would be included in the box. Although they might include it in the AM packaging since I think mine was an OE package even though it came in the same box.

What bike are you using? Mine didn't come with the guide either, and I'm just wondering if I did it right - SuperSix Evo Black inc.

CAAD 10. I put the converter in the "on" position.

Take a look at page 10 of the dealer manual. It shows how to set it up based on where your cable exits the frame if you don't have the plastic piece.

This may have already been answered here but do 7900 series crankset and brake calipers work with 9000 series shifters, derailleurs, chain, etc?

Yes they will, this was discussed two pages ago and many other times

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viewtopic.php?f=10&t=112392 -Gallium Pro
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=100286" -Trek Madone

Dealer manual: FD-9000/RD-9000

http://si.shimano.com/content/si/front- ... 01-ENG.pdf

I am in the final process of ordering a custom frame.

I have decided that I would like to try a Shimano groupset - the 9000 series.

At first, I was all set on the soon-to-be released DA 9070 DI2 groupset with the internal seatpost battery option. The customized bike frame is an either/or choice - mechanical or electronic groupset and not interchangeable.

My friend, who is concurrently building up his Litespeed L1R bike and who has chosen the DA 9000 groupset, is advising me against the electronic version.

He said that the shifting on the 9000 is already perfect and does not see the additional advantages and only sees the additional disadvantages (risks) of the electronic version. He is a product quality and reliablity engineering manager at a US multi-national hard-disk company. His responsibility is to investigate and trend the HD failure events and set the warranty period to exactly cover the failure period and not cover certain failure events. He told me to look at the Shimano warranty terms and period for the electronic version.

I will be riding in Thailand and hotter/wetter climates and I sweat gallons/liters onto the groupset. Even with weekly bike wet rag wipe-downs and monthly chain lubes and brake and shifter cable touch-up lubing, my brake and shifter cables started to rust after 4000 miles (eight months), I had to re-grease my Speedplay pedals, and the steering column, upon maintenance dissassembly, was found to be caked in salt. But, I did not have to change out my chains and the bottom bracket and wheel hubs were fine. He said that he does not think the IP rating (water-proof) of the FD electronic housing and shifter cables will withstand my sweat salt creeping into the junctions.

What do you all think?

Mark

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2011 Cannondale Quick CX-1
2012 Lynskey Helix OS with SRAM Red
2013 Lynskey R330 with SRAM Red Quarq
2013 Parlee Z1 with DA 9070

I think your friend knows jack all about di2 failures or general lack thereof.

Having said that, you can't really go wrong with cabled.

There is greater risk in mechanical damage, with either group. I've seen front derailleur parallelograms completely seize up solid, limit screws locked, etc. besides aluminum handlebars with holes eaten through them from the sweat.
I've had one di2 wire become contaminated. it was from an internal wire kit, and the frame design did not allow that one plug to be heat shrink sealed. their standard plugs are sealed on their own, without needing the heat shrink...

Either way you can't go wrong. They're both incredible groups, best shifting of their respective type. If I had a choice, though, it'd definitely be 9070 Di2

It was discussed that the f. derailleur uses a 'stabilizing screw / plate' to help hold it steady and fine tune the derailleur.

Can this feature be found on BOTH the braze on and clamp style front derailleurs?

I would imagine that the clamp on FD doesn't need it since the derr is integrated into it and will be braced by that. The support bolt on the braze on FD gives another point to anchor it and afford support in a second spot. With a clamp on FD, the FD is effectively braced by the whole seat tube since it is integrated into the clamp that wraps around the whole tube.

Surely one of you with a 9000 derailleur on their bike could chime in and clear this up.

So has anyone made an attempt to replicate what Wayne Stetina did as described here by L. Zinn?

http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/07/ ... now_228686

Running Dura Ace 9000;
shifters
f. & r. derailleurs
chain

all mated to a (10) speed Shimano cassette? I just can't bring myself to hand over the cash for a super expensive D-Ace 9000 cassette with Ti cogs that will wear out in half a season. I went down that road with a 7900 Ti cassette. They aren't worth the money (for me).

I want to try and run D- Ace 9000 mated to a (10) speed cassette. When the Ultegra level (11) spd cassettes become available I will then buy (11) spd cassettes.