Weight Weenies

luckysix wrote:I am installing some full-length nokon with the supplied cables and there is a lot of friction. I tried lubing with triflow, but it's still quite bad. Should I give powercordz a try?

Also, is it worth buying liner made by a different manufacturer? The nokon liner doesn't seem particularly smooth.

imho the ptfe powercordz liner for nokon is better than than the nokon one, it has a bit more clearance, certainly seems smoother running

i use nokon+powercordz (with sram red), it's just so much better than the gore ride-on i had before, the powercordz do not stretch, so changes are really snappy, brake feel is good too, and then there's the weight saving as well

i ride year-round, all weathers except ice, i don't use any lube, don't run full length liner, i've had no problems with powercordz sticking, no excess friction

the install takes a little extra planning/care to get the best results - the first time i did it i made the outers much too long, with powercordz you can go much tighter

this post shows my install...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92700&start=15#p812939

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I'm having a bit of trouble finding the power cordz liner for sale. Any opinions on the Jagwire stuff? Looks the same... superficially at least.

http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Liner-Kit ... 728&sr=1-2

I have been using iLinks for about 6 months with no issues, shifting is better than with the Gore Rideons supplied with SRAM Red

luckysix wrote:I'm having a bit of trouble finding the power cordz liner for sale. Any opinions on the Jagwire stuff? Looks the same... superficially at least.

http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Liner-Kit ... 728&sr=1-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I run full length Jagwire liners because I don't like having to run Nokon's special 1.1mm derailleur cables, no complaints thus far.

so....i have a set of minis and std i-links in the post..

what advice do ya'll have for use with SR 11 ?
i'm also using neg-Gs

i've seen lots of sram and shimano set ups but whats the tricks and tips to using with campag 11 speed?


next question is it really worth it?


thanks sk

Anything can work fine if setup right. I found the I-links to be a tad tricky at first and I personally didn't think they performed that well (for shifting at least). Once I got the hang of it it only took a tad longer to cable a bike, but you have to be extremely careful not to crimp the liner.

I like normal cables better because of the frequency in which I have to change them out. Pulling an old, dirty cable out inevitably gunks up the liner a tad and lubing the liner will totally FUBAR the setup (horrible move on my part).

I now run Dura Ace and find that the DA cables still work the best, but I would definitely use the i-link brake cables again and probably will.

KWalker wrote:Anything can work fine if setup right. I found the I-links to be a tad tricky at first and I personally didn't think they performed that well (for shifting at least). Once I got the hang of it it only took a tad longer to cable a bike, but you have to be extremely careful not to crimp the liner.

I like normal cables better because of the frequency in which I have to change them out. Pulling an old, dirty cable out inevitably gunks up the liner a tad and lubing the liner will totally FUBAR the setup (horrible move on my part).

I now run Dura Ace and find that the DA cables still work the best, but I would definitely use the i-link brake cables again and probably will.

Why is it a horrible move to lube the liner if you don't mind me to ask?
Thanks!

Gunked up the shifting and sucked immensely afterwards.

I always run liners the full length with Nokon and iLinks - means the need to relube and deal with crud incress is all but eliminated. I have Nokons on 1 bike that have barely needed touching in 6 years. iLinks are less successful - used a set on a CX bike and the metal sections wore and some split - since replaced with Nokons. Installation just needs patience and a little more care. The sagging cable stories are generally all about poor install and not taking up all the slack. Weight is less my concern and more about neat, tight cable turns and the fact they don't rub-up your paint because the little segments roll as you turn the bars.

I'm considering using PowerCordz running in standard iLink outers, to operate EE Cyclework brakes with Force levers.

Is there anything that I should be aware of before I pull the trigger on the Cordz?

Dammit wrote:I'm considering using PowerCordz running in standard iLink outers, to operate EE Cyclework brakes with Force levers.

Is there anything that I should be aware of before I pull the trigger on the Cordz?

The windsor clasp that comes with the cordz don't fit into the clamping mechanism of the EE brakes. I just bought a pair of EEs and was going to use cordz with them. It looks like the stock clamp might work but I haven't tried it yet.

According to the instructions you are meant to knot the cord around the brake anchor bolt- I've had a play around and I don't think it will fit with my brakes:



What have others with these brakes done in this situation?

Can I just clamp the cord, rather than knot and clamp?

I´ve been using powercodz and mini i-links for a while. I´m planing on changing my shimano housing for alligator i-link and mini i-link on my new road bike. I´m not gonna use powercordz never again. They can get damaged just installing them and they do not provide any real increase on performance, more on the contrary... They have this sticky plastic texture on the exterior and they don't slide so good. Also they don't work so good with grease. Steel cables keep grease better as they have micro threads and grease stays there. For shifting you can use 1.2mm cables or sram 1.1 cables. I would go Di2 and hidraulic braking though... Cheers!!

monty dog wrote:Weight is less my concern and more about neat, tight cable turns and the fact they don't rub-up your paint because the little segments roll as you turn the bars.

Would you please clarify; do i-Links tend to mar paint?

I'm trying to decide between Nokon & Alligator i-Link for a new bike.
I want silver color.
The shiny chrome finish on my old silver Nokons would flake off after a season or two of use.
The newer silver Nokons are clear anodized instead of plated, right, and therefor less shiny and more durable?
How about Alligator i-Link--is the silver finish durable?

My new bike has a nice paint job that I want to protect. Are both Nokon and Alligator hard on paint? With Nokon you can use shrink wrap tubing for contact points; what about for Alligator?

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