Going to Campy, need advice on tools and other misc things..

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
kemo
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:03 pm

by kemo

All,

This is my first post. I love the forum btw, lots of great bikes and advice.

Background: I have a Aluminum Colnago Dream frame I picked up some time ago, used. Im just a recreational rider but like the styling of the older Colnagos and one day would like to have a steel Master X-Light.

After many months of ups and downs on cash flow and other issues, I finally have some time and just a little money to get rolling on this project.

Question: what tools, and what bottom bracket size will I need to get this Chorus crankset installed? This seemed like a good deal for $220.
http://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-Chorus ... B001GSSI5O

Thanks,
Steve
Austin TX (oak hill)
Steve Kennemer
Austin, TX

frenchnago1
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:54 pm

by frenchnago1

You'll need a set of campy cups and a shim or park or campy or var tool to tighten them, you might need to face your BB too. If you are not tooled for that see a bike shop!

Nice set up by the way and great bike!

by Weenie


kemo
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:03 pm

by kemo

frenchnago1,

thanks for the quick reply! Im just now getting into wrenching on bikes and what not so Im not super familiar with all the different hardware out there. this is my first time dealing with Campagnolo equipment or even cups for that matter.

what is "facing the BB"? Im assuming it has somthing to do with the bottom bracket area of the bike that might need some reworking?

thanks again,

Steve
Steve Kennemer
Austin, TX

fat tire
Posts: 354
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:54 pm

by fat tire

It is when you make the bb square by shaving off metal from the bb surface. I would have a shop do it. It is an expensive tool plus you will only do it once for each new frame. So the likely hood of getting your money out of the tool is unlikely.

Facing makes sure that everything is flush and prevents the bearings from wearing really fast if they are not square when you put the preload on them.

kemo
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:03 pm

by kemo

thanks for the help guys...i found this nifty video of the tool in question shaving a BB in preparation for a campy crank.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT4qzevaOWo
probably best to leave this up to the pros...at least the chasing of the threads and the facing of the outer bottom bracket area. Im assuming that there is a certain amount of metal that can be shaved off before you get into problems. Also, if there is a situation where the bb metal has been shaved before or it just takes that much shaving to get it square, then there would be a thin shim installed between the cup and the bb area.

I proabaly need to read the manual :shock:
Steve Kennemer
Austin, TX

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bikerjulio
Posts: 1901
Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
Location: Welland, Ontario

by bikerjulio

Campy are good with tech info. It is all available on their site. Go to the instruction sheets. With a "modern" frame I have yet to need to do any facing - so you should best check the BB with a caliper and see if it appears within Campy specs. Get rid of any paint on the surface.

Their BB cups install with a regular tool like Shimano or Truvativ. I'd advise the "Cup" type tool used with a ratchet wrench.

If the threads are Italian you'll need a set of Record cups in Italian threading.

If you are going all Campy you need a cassette lockring tool. If 11 speed, a chain tool.

Other than that, no special tools for most assembly and maintenance work.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

If you're going 10 or 11 speed there is no need to get the dedicated chain tool, be it the Campagnolo one or the two Park tools (CT4.2 & CT11). By using a KMC 11 speed connector all you need is a regular chain tool to trim the chain and a pair of chain pliers to open the chain if you want to clean it off the bike.

Other than that the following

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HammerTime2
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by HammerTime2

ultimobici wrote:10mm with an extension bar to allow you to access the central bolt on the UT Cranks
Get a Campagnolo UT-BB110 Tool to tighten/remove the central fixing bolt http://www.competitivecyclist.com/produ ... 111.0.html .

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sugarkane
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by sugarkane

HammerTime2 wrote:
ultimobici wrote:10mm with an extension bar to allow you to access the central bolt on the UT Cranks
Get a Campagnolo UT-BB110 Tool to tighten/remove the central fixing bolt http://www.competitivecyclist.com/produ ... 111.0.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .



I use a 10mm T handle Allen key and a large spanner on the flats of the Allen key... Works pretty ace.

Also you can set the press link chain rivets with a preload adjustable chain tool and a c spanner to lock the rivet in place.. About $25 worth of tools.

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sugarkane
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by sugarkane

laager wrote:
sugarkane wrote:I use a 10mm T handle Allen key and a large spanner on the flats of the Allen key.

Ahh. The common amber liquid calibrated metric torque elbow.



Haha you can't over torque that thing

I have a micro torque wrench for normal bolts though
In fact I just upgraded to this one.
Image
Last edited by sugarkane on Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

I use this.
http://www.sport-torq.com/
the 20° break action means you can't over torque unless you're hamfisted!

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giant man
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by giant man

laager wrote:
bikerjulio wrote:If you are going all Campy you need a cassette lockring tool.

Plus a chain whip. However, my recommendation is a Vice Whip. Works really well, including on 11s.

The UT-CN300 chain tool could probably be placed in the same bucket as the BB facing tool. Expensive and rarely used.

The UT-BB110 hex extension for the Ultra Torque crankset is pretty cheap and worth getting.

The main items are two torque wrenches. One for the fine stuff in 1/4" drive and one for the big stuff (cassette lockrings and UT hirth joint) in 1/2". Finding one in 3/8" will be easier but I have a major aversion to 3/8". I just like 1/2" better.

+1 - agree! best tool I bought last year, can't recommend it enough

buzz
Posts: 31
Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:53 pm

by buzz

dont waste your money stick with shimano di2 or sram red , i have friends who have campy and they very dissapointed , clunky shifts , awkard set up

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bikerjulio
Posts: 1901
Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
Location: Welland, Ontario

by bikerjulio

Image
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

by Weenie


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kman
Posts: 1091
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:51 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

by kman

giant man wrote:
laager wrote:
bikerjulio wrote:If you are going all Campy you need a cassette lockring tool.

Plus a chain whip. However, my recommendation is a Vice Whip. Works really well, including on 11s.
*snip*

+1 - agree! best tool I bought last year, can't recommend it enough


I considered one of those, they certainly look cool. You still need a regular chain whip for track cogs though and since they are about 6x the cost of an average chain whip I decided against it.
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.
-- Frank Zappa

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