AERO brakes
Moderator: robbosmans
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@Juanmoretime I had to remove the cover and cable hanger piece in order to install it on my p3, your photo has been deleted so i can't see whether this would work for you or not? I then re-assembled the brake in situ.
Edit:- just found a photo online of the plasma 2 rear brake area, would it not work if you spaced the omega out further by using multiple serrated washers, not the most elegant solution I realise!
They do brake fabulously too, although they were only used 3 times on last nights TT!
Edit:- just found a photo online of the plasma 2 rear brake area, would it not work if you spaced the omega out further by using multiple serrated washers, not the most elegant solution I realise!
They do brake fabulously too, although they were only used 3 times on last nights TT!
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Heres a couple of photos of my rear brake, trying to improve the aerodynamics with a little bit of gaffer tape and card.
Original view, at approximately 20degree yaw
Now with added fairing:-
I think this should help smooth airflow round the edge of the brake which was sticking out a little. and its relatively stealth modification in real life.
Original view, at approximately 20degree yaw
Now with added fairing:-
I think this should help smooth airflow round the edge of the brake which was sticking out a little. and its relatively stealth modification in real life.
Wouldn't get that past the commissaires here...
Dalai wrote:Wouldn't get that past the commissaires here...
That is clearly structural and provided by the manufacturer.
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UK TT scene, their own regulations not UCI ones! Only 1 UCI race per year, the sporting National Champs (as opposed to the fixed distance champs run by the UK TT body). 2 seconds to remove a bit of tape and card before hand.
- HammerTime2
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape wrote:While related to duct tape, it <gaffer tape> differs in that it can be removed cleanly because it uses a synthetic rubber adhesive rather than a natural rubber adhesive.
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Yeh any tape will do as long as its sticky enough. You only have a few millimeters of brake to attach it too so has to be strong enough to resist the wind. I just used the same roll of tape that I use for my disc wheel valve holes.
the bit of card just gives it a little structure to prevent deformation/ballooning under the wind that will hit it.
I'm guessing it will only save 1w at most, but the sharp edge of the rear of the brake was annoying me.
the bit of card just gives it a little structure to prevent deformation/ballooning under the wind that will hit it.
I'm guessing it will only save 1w at most, but the sharp edge of the rear of the brake was annoying me.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned the EE brake in this topic, given its small frontal surface area profile and a cable routing that sticks out less than most other brakes. Not to forget their awesome performance and minimal weight. Just thought they'd deserve to be mentioned. From a frontal view mine don't protrude outside the fork and headset profile nor the seat stays in the rear and the cable narrowly brushes the top tube and seat tube.
“I always find it amazing that a material can actually sell a product when it’s really the engineering that creates and dictates how well that material will behave or perform.” — Chuck Teixeira
I actually think that the EE brake on the rear with an Omega up front might be the perfect match. EE is totally flat in its design so it is like the wind hitting a wall.
I will be doing this set up on a couple of bikes maybe.
I will be doing this set up on a couple of bikes maybe.
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AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades
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