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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:46 am 
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Posts: 680
roca rule wrote:
are this really 29" or 26"? does the weight includes rotor? if price is no object the some enve built can be under 900 grams with the right parts
980+145=1125
sub 900gram wheelset= 900 grams
that is 225 gram difference
plus the extra weight on the fork and the extra weight of pads and calipers vs rim calipers and pads?
is braking that much of an issue
i ride carbon tubulars with kcnc cb1 brakes and i find the quite aduquate for their job. i do not thik that you can make the rim any lighter specially clinchers.


29in wheel at 943g. And this is for a MTB wheel, it's put through quite a bit more stress than a road wheel, so it could probably be made even lighter.
http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/custom-bikes/943-gram-edge-tune-29er-wheelset.html
Since your looking for absolute lightest, there are 36g discs. Or 72g for a set. (add ~40g if using centerlock).
http://www.innolite.se/sida.aspx?id=50
So your looking at 1015g for a set of wheels including rotors...Not bad, even for road wheels.

EDIT: okay, so I underestimated how light some stock forks are. :oops: Depending on what forks we're talking about, there will be a decent increse. Enve's new disc cross fork weighs 470g

A 2007 XTR caliper weighs 91g..Yes it has pads.
http://www.fotos.light-bikes.de/main.php?g2_itemId=2883

Dura-Ace 7900 caliper weighs 145g
http://www.fotos.light-bikes.de/main.php?g2_itemId=12449

And before you ask lightweight hydraulic cables weighs 19-23g/meter
http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-components/brakes/hydraulic-brake-hose-weights

Why don't you do some research on discs before you start spewing crap out?


Last edited by Colin on Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:53 am 
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Well without adding weight and strength to the seat stay and making the ride harsher or making the left have less spring than the right, you have to mount the brake on the chain stay or add a substantial brace between the seat and chainstay. Due to room considerations between the seat stay and chain stay you can only go so close and 140 is pretty much the limit because you start having to really distort the shape of the seat stay. If you have to do it on the bottom of the chainstay, you end up having a long post reaching down from the axle area of the chainstay in order to get the position correct. I have done many designs in my head of how this would work on a road bike and the only logical place is between the chainstay and seatstay. Why don't you show us a design that would work with a 115mm disc?

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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:53 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:50 am 
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yourdaguy wrote:
Well without adding weight and strength to the seat stay and making the ride harsher or making the left have less spring than the right, you have to mount the brake on the chain stay or add a substantial brace between the seat and chainstay. Due to room considerations between the seat stay and chain stay you can only go so close and 140 is pretty much the limit because you start having to really distort the shape of the seat stay. If you have to do it on the bottom of the chainstay, you end up having a long post reaching down from the axle area of the chainstay in order to get the position correct. I have done many designs in my head of how this would work on a road bike and the only logical place is between the chainstay and seatstay. Why don't you show us a design that would work with a 115mm disc?


So you haven't then ? :roll:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:09 am 
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Location: Central USA
Would now be the moment to note that for many it would seem foolish to purchase high dollar / high tech items like DA7900 or either of their two electronic groups or anyones high end 10 speed wheelsets - while a garage sale bonanza for those satisfied with running old tech......not so much fun for those wanting their stable to be current

Meanwhile.....where's that leave SRAM??????


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:41 am 
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durkonion wrote:
I'm not sure how valid the 4 arm rumor is. In Shimano's Tech Doc the picture of the crank shows 5 arms. Of course that could just be a place holder.


I suppose they could gamble on the fact that power will be measured from the pedal as opposed to the BB from the near future, taking the SRM problem out of the equation and meaning pros will ride full & current groupsets again. Then, 4 arm, 5 arm, who cares???

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:54 am 
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Collin
That its still heavier than zen's enlightenment at 875grams with no modified parts and no unavailable parts.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:09 am 
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Roca

I really don't need to know your descending skills. The amount of time you would lose braking for the 21 hairpins would more than negate any handling benefits you might enjoy due to a lower bb.

For hairpin 21 for instance, I would want to slow from 50mph to around 20 mph in a short a space as possible. With carbon rims in the wet I'd need to start the process near hairpin 20


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:34 pm 
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I would think your limit of traction would be at the tire/road and not the brake/rim brake/disc in the wet. The last thing you need is a whole of of braking traction when your tires are getting their minimum amount of traction. I think it's a moot point which is better in the wet when going down hill/curvy road. I would rather have good modulation/feel.

Just so you know, I have no experience with carbon or discs in the wet or dry. So I'm probably talking out of my ...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:45 pm 
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maxxevv wrote:
yourdaguy wrote:
Well without adding weight and strength to the seat stay and making the ride harsher or making the left have less spring than the right, you have to mount the brake on the chain stay or add a substantial brace between the seat and chainstay. Due to room considerations between the seat stay and chain stay you can only go so close and 140 is pretty much the limit because you start having to really distort the shape of the seat stay. If you have to do it on the bottom of the chainstay, you end up having a long post reaching down from the axle area of the chainstay in order to get the position correct. I have done many designs in my head of how this would work on a road bike and the only logical place is between the chainstay and seatstay. Why don't you show us a design that would work with a 115mm disc?


So you haven't then ? :roll:


Apparently you haven't either. I am saying I have done the thought exercise and I clearly explained it. You are claiming it is easily doable but offer no proof. The ball is in your court to prove me wrong.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:48 pm 
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roca rule wrote:
Collin
That its still heavier than zen's enlightenment at 875grams with no modified parts and no unavailable parts.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


I didn't say it was the lightest wheelset in the world, although it is lighter than like 99% of road wheelsets, hell it's lighter than most of the wheels you see on peoples sub 6kg builds on here! You also have to keep in mind that it's a mountain bike wheelset! It's stronger than most road wheels will need to be.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:14 pm 
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Butcher wrote:
I would rather have good modulation/feel...


Just to clear this up, that's what discs will give you in all conditions and rim brake/carbon rim will not.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:22 pm 
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If anyone really thinks discs are going to get them down a typical Alpine descent faster than normal brakes then I think they need to work on their skills and cornering technique first.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:25 pm 
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So, one the wheel front. Shimano wheels (as in their own brand) are likely screwed with the need for a wider freehub. But something like a DT Swiss 240 might be ok, since they already offer the wider Campy freehub/endcap combo. I bet they will be able to comeout with a wider "shimano 11" freehub body and endcap, so people with exisiting wheels will be OK. Likewise, zipp and powertap should be able to get solutions out there.

Chris King? Maybe... but I bet it will require some major rework.

Seriously, who is going to buy shimano wheels and high end groups with this stuff leaking? I very nearly bough some Di2... not anymore.

Anyone want a few sets of C24 tubulars? :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:40 pm 
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Briscoelab wrote:
Anyone want a few sets of C24 tubulars? :)

If you go lower than that http://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php ... s_id=11301

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:39 pm 
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Location: by Crystal Springs (Sawyer Creek Trail)
Briscoelab wrote:
Anyone want a few sets of C24 tubulars? :)


You can ship some to me, I'll pay postage :lol:


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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:39 pm 


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