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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:17 pm
Posts: 15
Anyone running this combo? I'm curious on how many (if any) of the 2.5mm spacers were needed with the rotor 3D Cranks.

I'm running the Chris King BB and SRAM Red Cranks (standard English not BB30) with the GXP kit adapters/spacers right now so I'm not using any of the 2.5mm spacers between the BB Cups and the frame. I'm curious what I'll need to move to the rotor 3D setup.

BTW, I already checked with a few reputable shops about using the same cups/bearings from the GXP to the standard setup and they all seemed to think it would be fine. Just a matter of figuring out the spacers (if any). Far as I can tell the only difference in the BB's is the adapter kit which contains a spring washer, normal washer, adapter sleeve for the NDS spindle and some shims. The cups seem to be the same for all road versions.

Just curious if anyone had any experience with this.

Thanks!!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 2:56 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1980
Location: NoVA/DC
if it's a road crank, you use no spacers.
the spacers are to take up space on mountain bike frames, to account for the difference between a 68mm shell width and a 73mm shell (which is never used on road bikes), and whether you are using an e-mount front derailleur (not on road bikes either).
you don't have to worry about any of that.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:17 pm
Posts: 15
thisisatest wrote:
if it's a road crank, you use no spacers.
the spacers are to take up space on mountain bike frames, to account for the difference between a 68mm shell width and a 73mm shell (which is never used on road bikes), and whether you are using an e-mount front derailleur (not on road bikes either).
you don't have to worry about any of that.


That's what I was thinking too but the installation instructions seem to indicate you might need the spacers even with a road setup and so did the guy I talked to at Competitivecyclist.com.

We'll see when it gets here but I'm betting it doesn't need the spacers.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:21 pm
Posts: 282
Location: Kingdom Of Northumbria
I'm using this exact set up, NO spacers behind the BB.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 4:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:17 pm
Posts: 15
LardLover wrote:
I'm using this exact set up, NO spacers behind the BB.


:thumbup: Thanks!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:01 pm
Posts: 233
Kind of old and sorry to bring this back up.
I'm running a Chris King BB with Rotor 24mm 3D cranks on my cross bike. The non drive side keeps coming loose.
If I tighten it somewhat tight w/o torque wrench, the cranks bind to where they hardly spin a full rotation.
Is this normal? Do I need those CK bb spacers? I wish Rotor made Bottom Brackets in Mango!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:06 pm 
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Posts: 438
Location: Canada
If your arm is coming loose then you haven't installed correctly... You must not be torquing your pinch bolt to the required specs. The preload bolt should be over torqued and binding.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:01 pm
Posts: 233
Thanks. I have a Park Tools stand and a plethora of tools, minus a torque wrench.
I think it's time to invest in one.
Thanks for the advice.
I won these cranks on ebay and they didn't come with the stock detailed instructions.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:17 pm
Posts: 103
Yep ...torque wrenches help when bearing down on $7000. framesets!!! :D


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