Weight Weenies

Well people have tested this and it is faster. Keep in mind that this is not the only way to do this set up and yes you could refine it. There are higher stradles that have the noodle to keep more cable exposed.

I will go with what I know has tested faster and you can go with what you think is maybe better.

I will be doing this set up on my next Tri/TT build and it will be faster than standard brakes.

-People?
-Tested?
-How?

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elviento wrote:Is that glued or welded? Or does it offer any adjustment?

Don't know the answer to this, but couldn't you make a very neat ISP head with an expander bolt system to retain it? Like a quill stem or a fork bung.

Yes you definitely could and I posted a drawing on this earlier... The key is to keep it light. This thing alone weighs more than many of today's light seatposts.

MajorMantra wrote:Don't know the answer to this, but couldn't you make a very neat ISP head with an expander bolt system to retain it? Like a quill stem or a fork bung.

andy2 wrote:-People?
-Tested?
-How?

Specialized with a wind tunnel

NGMN wrote:

andy2 wrote:-People?
-Tested?
-How?

Specialized with a wind tunnel

Really? So they have verified, in the windtunnel, that by putting non aero objects that cover their aero headtube to about 1/2 of the frontal are like in the pic - you go faster??
Or have 'people' read marketing department blurbs and drawn their own conclusions?

andy2 wrote:Never mind the cable, but between that cable hanger and those brakes most aero benefit of anything north of the rim is lost. The straddle cable mounting fi is just plain horrible. Sort of like having a bicycle mounted on the front of your aero car.....

If he is designing her own stem, he could add a little hole in the stem that acts as cable stop as many old CX bikes had

That's question for you fashion weenies.

Pro:
Fashion,
Size flexibility,
weight (a tad)

Con:
level is so classic,
Provides a resting position or descending position, or both.

Slope wins narrowly at 3:2. So slope it is (sorry I answered for the fashion weenies). That said, the looks of a deeply sloping toptube is funny or EVEN DISTURBING.



Therefore, I am going to go with a moderate slope of approx 30mm. This way, I will enjoy the size flexibility (never mind the size inflexible ISP on top), the resting AND descending position (in fact, if the road on my descent slopes downward by 30mm over a stretch of 530mm, then I would effectively have a "virtual level" toptube at that moment of time. Isn't that brilliant?).

For visual effect on the degree of slope, I could spend a few hours to come up with a drawing for you, or you can just imagine the outcome of an SS Evo banging an EPS wearing a condom made by the Chinarello guys...

Glad I got this out of the way.

Nothing wrong with lots of slope - that bike you posted just kinda sucks

A road frame with lots of slope always sucks! End of story.
(sorry for the sloppy photoshop)

That is my post on my English Build.

jooo wrote:

@BmanX - I remembered seeing it in your thread and saw this:

elviento wrote:Is that glued or welded? Or does it offer any adjustment?

kgt wrote:A road frame with lots of slope always sucks! End of story.

Wow real good argument there

kgt, this is really funny/odd, coz I saw the super-duper sloped English and started PS'ing my way through the photo, and when I am 90% done with my work, I saw your PS job.

So that my work doesn't go to waste, here is a neutral redition of less slope...

Jooo, my theory is that a frame, generally needs to be the center piece of the machine, visually. On a larger bike, that's not a problem. On a small bike, it is. Of couse it's all aesthetic and subjective.

kgt wrote:A road frame with lots of slope always sucks! End of story.
(sorry for the sloppy photoshop)

@Jooo - The post is a quil style set up and has 20mm of adjustment. But this was a custom one off for my build. There is a lip inside the ISP that this mini post can sit on and Rob did up a few spacers so it is pretty solid. It offers 20mm of adjustment in my ISP. You have to leave off the head, tighten down the body, put the head on and tight down the saddle bolts. So more work than a standard post to get it set up but after it is set up, no problems and I have never had to fart around with it.

I have two of these set ups that Rob sent me. A shorter lighter version and a heavier longer version.

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