Appreciate if someone knows if the Scott Foil fork is supposed to have a crown race?

Cleaning out the headset bearings etc...decided to pull the bearings out to clean/grease them.

Hmmm...no crown race??

Just wondering, seems odd that the bearing is sitting right on the crown of the fork.

With that said, it would have to be some unique crown race for it to fit, because it tapers the entire way down to the fork shoulder. So not sure what kind of weird crown race it would be.

Having build up another bike with a Ritchey drop in headset, it had a crown race. But I know this is proprietary.

Thanks

I'm fairly certain it doesn't take one similar to giants OD2 fork but I will check a foil at work tomorrow

The crown race is molded into the fork, it doesn't need an additional one.

It certaintly appears that way. There isn't a typical shoulder where a crown race would seat onto/pressed on. It does sit nicely on the bearing and flush nearly to the frame as you would expect.

Oh well, just greased it up...and seems OK.

Thanks for the replies!

no crown race on either of my Foil forks.

_________________
2012 Scott Foil Premium

Ok, thanks for the confirmation also on this, appreciate it.


One other thing. Which side do you run your derailleur cables?

From what I've seen on the internet and photos. the FD/Left shifter runs into the left side of the frame, and the RD/Right shifter is fed through the right side.

Seems like you could do either, cross over would seem to make more sense, but the rear brake also goes on the right side of the frame.

Thanks

2011 Cervelo R3s don't have a race. Bearing sits on the fork.

_________________
R2.5 / R3 / S-Works 29er (20 lbs) / S-Works SL4 Di2 (14.7 lbs)

Keep the cable routing as you said; left for front and right for rear, it enters the bottom bracket cable guide with a clean angle this way and shifts very nicely.

That is what I ended up doing. Glad I had a pick tool and some technique to get the cables I changed through the BB area.

It looks like the guide wanted it as you said also and reduces the chance of any cable crossing/friction. Odd how there are no liners inside the frame to help out on this.

Seems to be working fine and after you poke and work on a technique, it becomes less painful to run the cables...but still not the most fun I've done!!

One issue is I use Jagwire cables. The housings are a little stiff compared to Gore. Down the road I might spend the money on the Gore ultralight. The housing are thinner/more flexible I've found. So making those tight angles/curves to the same side from the bar tape to the internal routing is easier and not as difficult. Of course, when riding you don't notice the difference. But when in the bike stand, if you don't have the cable lengths done just right, the steering wheel will go to one side slightly due to the stiff cable housings trying to straighten themselves out.

Thanks