A decent potential crank is the Zipp 300. Pretty conservative in style but can be had quite cheaply. It's their older model but still a good one.

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!

I agree with the choice of Feather brakes or one of the clones. I recently bought a used pair of Feathers and I was impressed enough with them to try the "TR" brakes being sold on Ebay. Both provide plenty of stopping power for my 175# weight, much more than the Cane Creek BRS-200SL sidepulls I've been using for the past 15 years. On top of that, they saved 50+ grams.

The TR brakes are very similar to the Feathers with the following differences:
- Swisstop GHP brake pads (nice bonus)
- A better, more positive cable adjuster
- A thicker upper arm that's hollowed out in the back
- Some machining near the brake pad slots to reduce weight
- A much better price (I paid $180)

The brakes came out of Seattle, rather than Taiwan and they arrived in NH in three days, so I certainly can't complain about the service.

Absolute best bang for your buck?
Veloflex master (or corsa) 20mm tyres direct from PBK and either maxxis flyweight tubes or continental supersonic tubes (don't get the supersonic tyres....they only last a few K's so it's actually $$ prohibitive!). The tyres aren't the 170g they claim...but they are typically still 20-30g lighter than a 4000s. each. The tubes may be as much as 40-50g lighter than a grotty cheapo tube each. Up to 150g depending on the combo you are running now and the veloflex can't be beaten for ride and grip. Downside? (there always is one) is that they are not very puncture resistant. They roll fast and grip SOOOOO WELLL!!!!
Check your rim tape. If it's heavier stuff....get a light one or consider velo plugz. (save 10-20g)

Alu nipples.(20g)
alu chainring bolts (save about 15g over steel and not overly pricey)
Build a light expander or score a tune gum gum and top cap.(save about 30g)
Get smart with a dremel. NEVER dremel a frame or fork but you can start on your bar plugs. 7g?....see if you can get them under 3g.....it's free if you have a dremel.
Alu waterbottle cage mounting bolts (4g if you have steel ones but they only cost a few $$)
How much does your spanky looking carbon bottle cage REALLY weigh?X-cross cages are about 11g and cost about $35-$40 (save up to 40g per pair but not super cheap)
When replacing cable outers, consider iLinks. This is only economical if you were doing a replacement anyway.
KCNC brakes are reasonable but definitely NOT for bigger guys on the hills and I personally don't think they work well with SRAM levers. Save about 100g
Keep your eye open for a low ks second hand SRAM red powerdome cassette or DA cassette. They last a decent length of time and will take 100g off compared to a budget casette (DA shifts better, even on SRAM systems!!).
When you upgrade/replace your pedals shop carefully and get the BEST you can.
A second hand SLR carbon Ti railed variant can be picked up cheaply second hand (save up to 100g).
Look at your handlebar tape weights carefully when you next replace it (save up to 25g).
Above all else (and I cannot emphasise this enough!) chug 1 less beer and eat 1 less slice of pizza and knock off 5kg from the ENGINE of your bike....not only will the whole set up be significantly lighter but it's cardio-fuelling system will be WAY more durable, your bike will last longer and you will actually SAVE some of the $$ required to do some of the mods listed above (save 5000g, gain power and save dollars).
You all knew that anyway, right?

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!

Hi,



If you want to run the best tyres on the planet, do it in style. Use them with a nice latex inner tube a la Vredestein (55g) and roll like a king.

Mini I-links + Powercordz perhaps? 1.2mm dia allround for the dare devils? Can be done and safely so with a trick or two.



Ouch.... Wrong planet, wrong time. We want a life as well as being able to sustain 50km/h for miles and miles.........

Cheers,

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Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

The planet x brakes are currently on sale on the site for ~$150. 205 grams and fairly well reviewed though lacks a traditional quick release adjustment which is really useful when using multiple wheels especially of different widths.

fdegrove....absolutely agree. I bought a bulk load of Challenge latex tubes (range is low 60g mark....the lightest of 10 tubes was 60g flat....typically 65 ish tho) and have been massively impressed at how much of a difference this makes. The funky little red tyre liners are simply awesome. They were the equivalent of about $5US each. When they come in again I will definitely be buying.
I use a mixture of NOKON outers (brakes) and mini iLinks (Gears) with Powercordz. Very very hard to set up but last a long time and work OK. Early versions of Powercordz are definitely NOT as smooth in operation.

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!

The SRAM Red crank is a pretty good bang for the buck!

Also, buying used on eBay makes a lot of the pricier items a lot more manageable.

Where did you get the tubes from? NZ or overseas? Nice mention on the X Cross cages, just orderd two now! I'm finding it a real problem to get latex tubes in New Zealand and so far I've been quoted $34US to ship 3 Vredistein latex tubes from the US to New Zealand, which is just extortion!

Torpedo7 had them (more than a year ago) in packs of 5.....I bought 2 packs and haven't opened the last one yet. They semi-regularly have the challenge tubes on special but I haven't seen the latex ones again since the first time (when I bought them). Kiwi importers aren't stocking latex tubes much from what I gather. I've actually had bike shops say that they don't like installing them (sad lack of skill really......it's just not that hard). They have little appreciation for how much difference they make, I suspect.
A common "line" I hear is that they puncture so much more easily. "really?' I say....." so the glass has made it all they way through the casing and you think the difference between latex and butyl underneath really makes a difference?".....pretty niaive

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!

KCNC crankset is 50gr lighter (Source: FWB crankset shootout #4) and, even on Ebay, the same price or less than the SRAM Red one.

Oh no you didn't.

KCNC has 47% more average deflection

Red weighs 80g more

KCNC stiffness/weight = 0.450

Red stiffness/weight = 0.619

KCNC eBay price (cheapest completed listing in the last 30 days) - $299

Red eBay price (cheapest completed listing in the last 30 days) - $133

Crankset deflection ? Really? I race sprints with Joan Llaneras and Toni Tauler (dont win much but thats another story), mash gears and the KCNCs plenty stiff enough, rest is just a number.

HOwever, I will grant you SRAM Red at 133 is a real bargain - is that second hand?

I emailed them the other day and they replied that do not plan on getting them in again anytime inthe future. Oh well

^.urgh....dammit.
Perhaps we can split a bulk pack from an importer? I know a good 10 pluis people that's buy in if we could get them cheap enough. In the meantime....try PBK for the Michelins.

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!