Bigger Gear wrote:
What EM3 says is very probable. The Campy 240s freehub had a very thin flange on the inner side where the largest cog sits against. This is because the freehub body is longer than Shimano. Recommended torque on the lockring is 30 N-m, whereas Campy wheelsets specify 50 N-m. I have also managed to crack the freehub inner flange through gorilla torque. Not 100% sure if this would create the wobble, it could but my symptom was excessive freehub drag when the cassette was installed because the cracked freehub was rubbing against the hubshell.
Years ago I had a Mavic FTS-L freehub that wobbled. It was not bad and I just lived with it, then I converted the freehub to Campy and the wobble went away so I assumed the problem was with the freehub seating. Perhaps you can find a local shop that has a spare freehub you could mount to see if that fixes things.
precisely...in my case, first I noticed the wobble, than after a few more weeks, the drag resulted after the crack progressed and the free hub body started to rub against the hub flange. If the failure progresses to the drag do be careful as you are subject to catastrophic failure. Specifically, after a few weeks of troubleshooting the wobble on my free hub and continuing to ride in the meantime, one day while JRA I heard a faint crack sound as i was torquing up a short steep hill, and then my rear mech began to coil up and around (equivalent to what would happen if you broke a rear mech hanger). Given that i was going very slow up the hill I was able to stop before I tore the hanger off my bike.
Lesson of the story...take your cassette off and inspect the flange on your freehub body.