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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:10 pm 
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hi guys,
i bought these wheels about 3 months ago(their 2011), and ever sence day 1, i've felt a noticeable amount of friction when spinning the rear wheel on and off the bike, and it doesnt feel any close to what i would have excpect from campy's USB hubs :x (the front wheel also has friction when spinned,less than the rear but again, not what i would've expected from the USB), actually my campy KHAMSIN spinns better, the USB bearings really feels like some kind of really cheap bearings.
In addition, the front wheel lately started to feel like the rim is a little bit egg shaped as when spinned on and off the bike you can feel it goes up and down(i checked and it was not the tire's fault), but when i put it on my bike and search for the spot when it's not true, i just cant find it :? , the wheel seems to be totaly round and true but doesnt feel that way.
thanks for the helpers


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Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:10 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:54 pm 
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Location: Scotland
Have you tried adjusting the bearing preload?

Take the tyre and tube off and see if still feels egg-shaped. If not, then the problem is with the tyre or tube.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:22 pm 
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Is what you refer to "feeling" egg shaped possibly because the wheel rim is not perfectly balanced from weight standpoint -since said it looks fine......?

Few rims are perfectly balanced weight wise although Campy does try something opposite the valve stem to get theirs a bit more balaced most others who generally don't do anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:26 pm 
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Like all loose bearing hubs, the preload should be set with a light amount of play in the axle. This play will disappear after clamping down your skewers. Also, the Campy skewers that come with these wheels have one of the best cams in the industry and do not need to be over-torqued to hold your wheel...you should apply only enough torque to cancel the preload play in your bearings.EM3

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:34 am 
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The nice thing about the preload adjustment on the Shamal Ultra's is that you can adjust it with the wheel on the bike. This removes the need to judge how loose it should be before tightening the QR, and compressing the axle, when adjusting off the bike.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:48 am 
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thanks to all who answered :D
garyh- i took the tire and the tube and it still feels egg-shaped, i guess it is unbalanced weight, but i dont get why would campagnlo do such thing if it's not balanced with the tube and tire on, and i'm pretty sure it wasnt that way when it was new(also reffered to what tommasini said), could a piece of something got inside the rim? althugh i dont hear anything when shaking it...
as for adjusting the bearing preload,garyh or em3, can you explain how exactly do i adjust it(of course,while the wheel is on the bike)? thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 1:04 pm 
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Bearing adjustment : http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90198
the link is for Fulcrum Racing Zero's, but they are basically the same.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 4:30 pm 
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Actually, with Campagnolo/Fulcrum hubs, you DO NOT set the preload with a hint of play, because with this hub design the preload adjustment ring does not experience any of the clamping forces of the rest of the axle.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 4:49 pm 
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noam9070 wrote:
hi guys,
the wheel seems to be totaly round and true but doesnt feel that way.


Well then, it is round and true. I think you have got a bit wound up over nothing, to be honest. The friction you notice is probably just seal drag which is meaningless when it comes to actual cycling, as is the perceived imbalance you've noticed. They're lovely wheels, just ride them, enjoy them and stop worrying.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 5:23 pm 
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yeah i figured it's not critical when riding, but it's nice to feel that they run smoothly,
i loosened the ring with the hex screw(while the wheel was on the bike) but it didnt seem to change anything, are you sure i dont need to do something before i loosen it? just to be sure -this is the ring that need to be loosen right? http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19 ... tra2w.jpg/


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:23 pm 
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if you take the hub apart you will see that the bearing cone is shaped say like ] against which the split ring spacer sits inside, so > going into ].

Winding the outer cap with the locking allen key / hex key onto the axle forces the > wedge into the ] cone, thus tightening things up in terms of free play of the bearings on the cones...

Once the split spacer is wedged into the cone it doesn't come back out too easily so it will actually need some movement along the length of the axle to get the play back.

If you've found the bearings are running slow or too tightly, ime you will need to take the hub grip nuts off either side, wind off the lock ring & then loosen out the axle from the bearings / cups a couple of mm to get the whole assembly loose again. A plastic ended hammer & a short knock on the end of the NDS axle does enough for me to introduce a bit of play in the assembly.

If you've taken it apart a bit, that will allow you to set the desired amount of play onto the bearings & thus get a nice free running hub once again.

The campag style hubs are really nicely put together & serviceable, so its worth spending a few minutes with allen keys to open them up to appreciate how simple they are to work on. Regular cleaning & fresh grease will help keep them in good condition & make them last longer too .. & then you'll also know when its time to replace cones and/or bearings.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:35 pm 
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I also have used a rap on the axle end with a rubber mallet when the wheel has been out of the bike.

If you prefer to leave the wheel in the bike while getting the cone to back off, then first note the orientation of the lockring (where the split is). Then turn loosen the pinch bolt for the lockring and turn that lockring back (loosening it) a full turn or so. Then grab the rim....say up by the brake and rock it side to side firmly. That rocking will put some side pressure on the bearing cone (much like what the mallet will do) to get the cone to back off a bit. Then tight the lockring up to where you think it should be - somewhere between where it is now and where you noted it was to start with. Best to go a little, lightly tighten the lockring pinch bolt, check the side play, then go a little more if needed, and so on.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:21 pm 
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ok i think i understand now, i'll give it a shot and will let you know, big big thanks!! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:59 pm 
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tommasini- i did what u said, and now theres just a side play beetween the hub and the axel,the bearings feel exactly the same,i'll think i'll stop trying "fixing" this one,just tell me please how to cancel the side play


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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:59 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:52 pm 
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Location: Central USA
To get out the side play you've got to turn the lockring clockwise (facing it) about a 1/8 rotation at a time until the side play just barely disappears.

Having said that - if the bearings are no where near where you think they should be that's a whole different issue.

Did you buy the whee;s new from a dealer of ?? As one option might be to have that dealer check them over for you.


Last edited by tommasini on Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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