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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:12 pm
Posts: 26
Does anyone know if postage is included or on top of the price?

Regarding rim width options. There are 2 options for the 60mm deep rims right? Normal and wide. I'm a bit confused...


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Posted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:28 am 


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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:43 am
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Postage is extra, something between 50-80$ depending on where you are.

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:35 am 
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Thnanks.

Can anyone less simple minded than myself explain the rim width...


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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:33 pm
Posts: 167
rims for racing/performance bikes used to be about 2mm wide at the brake track. Now rims for racing are availble that are wider 23-25 mm at the brake track and thy bulge out even wider than that along the side walls

This gives , primarily an aero advantage as the tires are 23-25mm wide so n wider rims the tir blends in smoothly with the sidewall, vs a wide tire in a narrow rim looking somewhat like a light bulb shaped (in cross section).

Wider rim/tire combos an also be run at a bit lower pressure than smaller tires giving more comfort without sacrificing performance.


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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2010 6:10 pm
Posts: 44
I haven't done the 1500km on the 50mm tubular but today I had a magnificent ride http://app.strava.com/activities/56223235 to test the wheels.
Very hard climbing: one 9.4km @ 8.5% and one 12.3 @ 6.3% in witch the final 4km never go bellow double digits of %, and one very tricky descent with LOTS of switchbacks http://app.strava.com/activities/56223235#1029333187. The road wasn't perfectly smooth and it was really narrow so precision handling was required and it all went better than expected.
The wheels clearly aren't the stiffest but they are enough for me and occasional rides.

All I can say is that I'm really very happy with the wheels AND the breaking whit Reynolds Blue Pads. Please, you really have to try the Reynolds pads, really, really good whit minimal noise. Of course I used the hard&short breaking but the rims never seamed very hot.

I'm very bad at climbing and I am really out of shape so don't make fun of my VAM :oops:
On the other hand, I made the KOM of the descent by almost a minute 8)

A sample:
Image


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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am
Posts: 472
Tranquillo that's nice to hear that. I'll be riding this wheelset in an attempt to climb up mt. Hamilton next week.


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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 11:58 pm 
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Tranquillo that's nice to hear that. I'll be riding this wheelset in an attempt to climb up mt. Hamilton next week.


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 1:31 pm
Posts: 1
Does anyone know till what weight the FSC38-CM are strong enough? Im about 88 kilo


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 8:57 pm
Posts: 766
Location: Ireland
Ordered a pair of 38cn, they arrived a day earlier than expected. They weighed 1290grms (including veloplugs added) so I suspect I got a pair of cm's, they seem well built and I had zero issues and they appear well finished and rigid enough on a 50km cycle on average rough Irish roads (I weight a little under 16st at present). If I was ordering again I'd go for the wider rims as the tyres came up a little narrower than they do on a set of Campag Nucleons, I'll be racing and trying to break these over the next few months so I'll let you know how they get on.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:54 am 
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in the industry

Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 2:22 am
Posts: 86
Location: N96 Road jingquan, Jimei District, Xiamen city, China
Irish wrote:
Ordered a pair of 38cn, they arrived a day earlier than expected. They weighed 1290grms (including veloplugs added) so I suspect I got a pair of cm's, they seem well built and I had zero issues and they appear well finished and rigid enough on a 50km cycle on average rough Irish roads


:D Irish, usually 1355g/set +/-30g for CN, :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am
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this may sounds weird.. but i've only put about 50 miles into the 38mm rims and my front is not true anymore. well, when i first got it.. it was off a bit, but didn't think much of it.. but now it rubs the brake pads. i did the toe in brake adjustment as suggest by prendrefeu (thanks man!) but the problem is still there. so i checked and sure enough.. the front wheel is not true and rubs.

i noticed the spokes are flat/ blade like. so how does one go about in truing it? i presume they need to remain flat like the rest?


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2010 6:10 pm
Posts: 44
Maybe you should take the wheel to your LBS to be trued?
The spokes should remain flat, its the nipple that rotates, AFAIK.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:11 am
Posts: 472
tranquilo: thanks, i'll give them a call as soon as they open up


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:25 pm
Posts: 321
Location: Aloha, Oregon
AddictR1, interesting

I ordered my 38mm's last night and thought to myself just after ordering that I might take them to my trusted wheel builder once I receive them and have them just give them the once over just to make sure everything is tensioned they way I like them.

On the subject of toe in, are you really just tipping the front or rear of the pad up or down to cover more break track? When I think of toe in, my mind goes to car tires and you can not actually toe in a pad on a sram red brake.

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Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:08 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:16 pm 
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in this case, toe-in means the front of the pad is closer the wheel than the rear by just a few mm....not up or down...pads should be more or less the same position relative to the height of the brake track

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