I was just wondering what peoples thoughts were on how tight a QR should be. I have found that while using the c-4 titanium skewers I need to crank it pretty tight to stop any creaking while out of the saddle, and giving the pedals a good mash...

is it possible to damage the hub/fork/anything else? from overtightening a QR?

Never heard of that before, I would guess that the QR would fail before the rear axel of the dropout would. Nice, light skewers are fun, but for 'normal' riding I prefer 'factory' skewers (Campagnolo or Shimano).

It is definitely possible, but some hubs are more sensitive than others. It is usually dependant upon how much side load the bearings see when the Q-release is tightened.
I have a set of C-4s, and I have heard some things about them having problems with sideload stiffness. (not exactly your problem, but perhaps related) I haven't really investigated on my own pair yet. I didn't notice any unusual problems when using them last year.

I feel like I habitually "overtighten" my skewers, but just a little bit. I have pulled the rear wheel out of the dropouts a couple times when mashing due to insufficient skewer force. If course that isn't a problem when using a bike with vertical dropouts.

You may also damage the QRs. Some QRs with an over centre cam action can be wrecked by over compressing the rubber washer in the QR - those that have such a washer.

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Biggest things you could do are damage the hubs (bearings) and skewer (but with the flexible C-4 skewer I think that is probably not such a likelihood)...

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interesting opnions... thanks peoples..

maybe i'll try and back them off a little and see if it still creaks...

I found that putting grease on the surface where the skewers touch the dropouts can get rid of the creaking noise.

Exactly.

Ti skewers can stretch because the metal is quite elastic. Spray/wipe both sides of the dropouts with dry lube and then clean the excess off and this will stop the creaking. The QR just needs to hold the wheel in place securely but "more is better" is not true.

The handle force vs clamping force applied is different for various skewers. Then you have the size of the skewer / dropout interface and similarly the hub locknut size and lumpiness. So your mileage may vary.

My experience - KCNC and other rear skewers need to be uncomfortably tight to avoid wheels pulling over on steep hills. The front can be a bit looser. Shimano and campag skewers grip much better and so you just need to feel a bit of resistance when closing.

Yes you can overtighten QR's.
I have tried it with an old XTR. The weakest point is the threaded part of the axle and this is the part which gets damaged. No threads after try.

I see a lot of over tightened skewers in the shop...to the point where we have to use mole grips or the like to get them off!

i think for superlightweight ti ones you'll probably brake the skewer before you damage the frame.

I noticed it some cases the conical spring does not fit well between hub and skewer
preventing secure tightening no matter how tight. Depends on how thick dropout is too.
Try it without spring before blaming skewer.

OK I have a dumb question. I have older bikes [70's] and the drop outs were kinda horizontal and with loose a QR, the wheel could slip forward. Newer frames, at least the ones I have, are vertical, so how would the wheel slip out?

I understand about the lighter weight ones making noises, titanium stretching, etc. but not the wheel moving.

I am still riding a bike from about 1987 that has the horizontal dropouts.