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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 367
Location: Melbourne
Does anyone else see any problems in changing over the Rotor regularly if I am careful? I'll be changing every week or two to train on the TT bike.

Chainring wear aside, just replacing bolts and o rings every now and then? Or something more sinister?

The alternative is to keep the Powertap in the TT bike for training and change the chainset over only for TT races so that I can use a disc...just will need to take a/c of diff in power b/n the two.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:03 am
Posts: 346
Location: San Diego California
I went through some head scratching when fitting a shiny new Rotor 3D Quarq and new Ultegra BB. I bought 2 BB's with the intent of moving the crank back and forth from the TT bike to the Road bike. The fit is super tight out of the box. I messed with it for a while, finally got out the micrometer and digital calipers. The Ultegra plastic ID measured 23.98mm. The Rotor shaft measured 24.00mm. While the Rotor shaft likely meets the print tolerance, the maximum (MMC) diameter should be line-to-line (23.97mm).

I thought about all this for a day or so, then tuned the Rotor shaft as others have suggested. The shaft now slides in freely but no play and is easily changed between bikes.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 5:44 pm
Posts: 75
SQ wrote:
Does anyone else see any problems in changing over the Rotor regularly if I am careful? I'll be changing every week or two to train on the TT bike.

Chainring wear aside, just replacing bolts and o rings every now and then? Or something more sinister?

The alternative is to keep the Powertap in the TT bike for training and change the chainset over only for TT races so that I can use a disc...just will need to take a/c of diff in power b/n the two.

Thanks


I honesty don't see there being a problem there. The DTT bolt on the NDS arm (fancy schmancy pinch bolt that acts as both the compressor and expander) is not replaceable, so be careful to not put too much stress on it, or worse, back it all the way out as Rotor says you'll then have to send the crank in for service to have it re-installed. Other than that, R&R of the crank is easy as hell and, if you do it right, will not create excessive wear on the mating surfaces.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 367
Location: Melbourne
Thanks very much.

I am thinking of keeping the Powertap on the TT bike so I am not changing every week but great to know that changing is easy.

Simon


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:29 am
Posts: 1
Old thread, but does anyone know the dimensions / std number of the o-ring used in the 24mm 3D?

I'm in need of a replacement, and having tried a couple can't seem to find the correct one (the old one fell to pieces, so was no good for comparison).

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2012 10:09 am
Posts: 163
I use Rotor 3D P2M with Shimano BB and BB90 on my Trek; it took me about 2 mins this morning to switch ..


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 1175
Location: Canada
Lupo wrote:
Old thread, but does anyone know the dimensions / std number of the o-ring used in the 24mm 3D?

I'm in need of a replacement, and having tried a couple can't seem to find the correct one (the old one fell to pieces, so was no good for comparison).

Thanks!


http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vclose2.asp?prd=113830&cat=7386000657


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