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USofChay
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by USofChay on Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:07 am
Mr.Hyde wrote:It's better to use a blade from a cutter knife to get varnished parts clean. That is way faster than sanding and works out great. You just have to take care ever to use a sharp blade, so you will need to change it three or four times when cleaning a frame.
Could you please post a link to this tool?
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gumgardner
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- Location: Pittsburgh
by gumgardner on Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:21 pm
It's super easy. Just get a box of straight razors(the kind you cut rugs with). Hold the sharp edge perpendicular to the piece you are "sanding" and pull/drag towards you. After I felt more comfy, I started dragging it back and forth as fast as I could do it. You'll see white 'coating' strips come off as you drag the blade. No need to sand afterwards because it is a super smooth surface. It gets tricky in tight areas bc you can't pull and drag very easily. Worst part for me was a few cuts in my fingers
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Frankie13
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- Location: USA
by Frankie13 on Fri Mar 04, 2011 2:54 pm
gumgardner wrote:It's super easy. Just get a box of straight razors(the kind you cut rugs with). Hold the sharp edge perpendicular to the piece you are "sanding" and pull/drag towards you. After I felt more comfy, I started dragging it back and forth as fast as I could do it. You'll see white 'coating' strips come off as you drag the blade. No need to sand afterwards because it is a super smooth surface. It gets tricky in tight areas bc you can't pull and drag very easily. Worst part for me was a few cuts in my fingers
It would be nice to see some pics on how to use the razors!
Thanks alot!!
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gumgardner
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by gumgardner on Fri Mar 04, 2011 4:02 pm
Not able to do a pic right now but just give it a try. They put so much coating on these components that you'll be able to trial and error without it being a problem. You'll see, there is only one way to do it.
\ (blade angle when going <--
------------- (carbon piece)
/ ( blade angle when going --->
---------------
Hope this helps
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t0ph0id
- Posts: 137
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- Location: Zürich, Switzerland
by t0ph0id on Fri Mar 04, 2011 4:21 pm
gumgardner wrote:Not able to do a pic right now but just give it a try. They put so much coating on these components that you'll be able to trial and error without it being a problem. You'll see, there is only one way to do it.
\ (blade angle when going <--
------------- (carbon piece)
/ ( blade angle when going --->
---------------
Hope this helps
Nice diagrams, explains it quite well.
Using this technique how long did it take to do a set of forks for example?
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Mr.Hyde
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Geoff
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Gregorio
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- Location: Center of the Universe
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gumgardner
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- Location: Pittsburgh
by gumgardner on Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:16 pm
I used a razor blade to remove the clear coat and decals from my 2011 Super Record 11sp Group and Edge 1.0 fork. Savings...11g
I still need to remove the coating off of the derailleur plate.
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dj97223
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by dj97223 on Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:11 am
Please show a picture of the tool/blade you are using. Thanks.
“If you save your breath I feel a man like you can manage it. And if you don't manage it, you'll die. Only slowly, very slowly, old friend.”
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Gregorio
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by Gregorio on Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:28 pm
That does look nice. Not sure I would lay waste to the sr components though.
Do you think it would be next to impossible to use this technique to do an orbea orca but leave the clear coat on the down tube where it says ORBEA. I was thinking maybe to out line the letters first to keep the clear coat from coming off in sheets. What do you think?