Proper sanding steps?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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USofChay
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by USofChay

Mr.Hyde wrote:It's better to use a blade from a cutter knife to get varnished parts clean. That is way faster than sanding and works out great. You just have to take care ever to use a sharp blade, so you will need to change it three or four times when cleaning a frame.

Could you please post a link to this tool?

by Weenie


gumgardner
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by gumgardner

It's super easy. Just get a box of straight razors(the kind you cut rugs with). Hold the sharp edge perpendicular to the piece you are "sanding" and pull/drag towards you. After I felt more comfy, I started dragging it back and forth as fast as I could do it. You'll see white 'coating' strips come off as you drag the blade. No need to sand afterwards because it is a super smooth surface. It gets tricky in tight areas bc you can't pull and drag very easily. Worst part for me was a few cuts in my fingers ;)

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Mr.Hyde
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by Mr.Hyde

Yep, just like Gum said. I'd make a Video, but I haven't anything to clean at the moment, sry.

Frankie13
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by Frankie13

gumgardner wrote:It's super easy. Just get a box of straight razors(the kind you cut rugs with). Hold the sharp edge perpendicular to the piece you are "sanding" and pull/drag towards you. After I felt more comfy, I started dragging it back and forth as fast as I could do it. You'll see white 'coating' strips come off as you drag the blade. No need to sand afterwards because it is a super smooth surface. It gets tricky in tight areas bc you can't pull and drag very easily. Worst part for me was a few cuts in my fingers ;)


It would be nice to see some pics on how to use the razors!
Thanks alot!!

gumgardner
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by gumgardner

Not able to do a pic right now but just give it a try. They put so much coating on these components that you'll be able to trial and error without it being a problem. You'll see, there is only one way to do it.

\ (blade angle when going <--
------------- (carbon piece)

/ ( blade angle when going --->
---------------

Hope this helps

t0ph0id
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Location: Zürich, Switzerland

by t0ph0id

gumgardner wrote:Not able to do a pic right now but just give it a try. They put so much coating on these components that you'll be able to trial and error without it being a problem. You'll see, there is only one way to do it.

\ (blade angle when going <--
------------- (carbon piece)

/ ( blade angle when going --->
---------------

Hope this helps


Nice diagrams, explains it quite well.

Using this technique how long did it take to do a set of forks for example?

gumgardner
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Location: Pittsburgh

by gumgardner

Not too long. 1-2 hours. Still not done...gotta still do the tight spots. Got down to the Uni-carbon fiber of my Edge 1.0 fork though :beerchug:

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Mr.Hyde
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by Mr.Hyde

Ritchey WCS Fork -> ~1h.

Geoff
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by Geoff

@gumgardner, very interesting!!!

Gregorio
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by Gregorio

Yes ,...pictures!

gumgardner
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Location: Pittsburgh

by gumgardner

Just sanded my Edge 1.0 fork and Campy SR11 levers, front and r. Derailleurs. I'll post picks in my Ruegamer post when I get a chance. ;)

gumgardner
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by gumgardner

I used a razor blade to remove the clear coat and decals from my 2011 Super Record 11sp Group and Edge 1.0 fork. Savings...11g :beerchug:

Image

Image

I still need to remove the coating off of the derailleur plate.

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dj97223
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by dj97223

Please show a picture of the tool/blade you are using. Thanks. :beerchug:
“If you save your breath I feel a man like you can manage it. And if you don't manage it, you'll die. Only slowly, very slowly, old friend.”

gumgardner
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by gumgardner

Sorry for the bad pic, but you'll get the idea.
Image

by Weenie


Gregorio
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by Gregorio

That does look nice. Not sure I would lay waste to the sr components though.
Do you think it would be next to impossible to use this technique to do an orbea orca but leave the clear coat on the down tube where it says ORBEA. I was thinking maybe to out line the letters first to keep the clear coat from coming off in sheets. What do you think?

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