Tune QR shortening?

[pk0r]

Though I am already owning those QRs for over 5yrs (the AC14), I always disliked the too long rear axle (about 5mm too long) which besides looking bad, unnecessarily delays wheel changes.
My brother's AC14 do have just the same prob (though being the latest model) - looks like they are made rather for MTB 135mm stance than for the 130mm roadbikes' - despite of being the road model.

So: since the rear axle is made of titan, I wonder how to shorten/cut the axle. I already talked to an engineer in the university's workshop and he said they don't have the tools and he wouldn't know of anything else than to dremel/sand the end off.
So does anyone have similar experience with too long axles and how to shave/shorten them.
Since I am only talking about the very end of the axle and thread it won't make any difference in the QR's reliabilty, function and stiffness anyways, but quicken wheelchanges and improve looks.

Thanks.

[zakeen]

I snaped the Ti bolt in my seat clamp, found another Ti bolt that was too long, so I just got a hack saw and sawed it off, then I got a file and smoothed off the ends. worked for me.

wasnt easy to saw thou.

[pk0r]

Hmmm a normal sew could do good?!
Gonna try it out if none comes with a better idea - just didn't want to ruin my threads and thus then don't get the QRs off/on at all any longer.

[fleanutz]

Screw the end cap of the QR onto the Ti axle beyond the point at which you will cut, then cut off the excess, then unscrew the cap (thereby guaranteeing the ability to get the cap back on). File the end a bit, then thread the cap on again. Should work fine.

[twistyaction usa]

Measure the amount of threads you want to cut off, then remove the skewer and instead of the aluminum end cap, thread something much harder (and probably heavier) on to the skewer past where you want to cut it. The purpose of this is to straighten out the threads after you cut some of the skewer off. After you have made your cut, begin to remove the steel or whatever else you've threaded on to reform the threads, but don't do it completely. Just enough to straighten out the threads. Then screw the temporary end cap back on to the skewer so you can start work on bevelling the end of the rod with a fine file so it's easy to thread on your aluminum end cap. The last thing you should do between filing and unthreading is to remove the steel "die"(for all intents and purposes) so that above all else you are left with good threads that will accept your soft aluminum end cap. That's what works for me.

[divve]

I used a Dremel to cut and chamfer the edge. Looks just like the original if you're a little bit handy.

[pk0r]

Thanks for the tips guys!
Took me only 15minutes to get it down - with a normal hand saw.
Cannot believe I haven't done this any earlier - reallly bothered me for over 5yrs.

But I don't understand at all why Tune cannot deliver the correct lenght since they already produce seperate MTB and road QRs..

Well, anyways: I am happy now. Thanks again

[simon]

to me it looks like they made a long axle to fit every road frame possible.
when i bought my skeewers it was written that you can cut the axle, but when the wheel is in the frame you have to see the axle coming out of the alu end cap.

[divve]

I think they include the same skewer for both MTB and road.

[popawheelie]

You should buy a Dremel and some of the attachments. These things are great tools for this stuff. Alot of the bolts on your bike are a little longer than they need be.

[Tippster]

I strangely have the same issue with my rear Heylight Ti QR.

about 5mm too long...

Time to get the saw out...