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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:07 pm
Posts: 766
ms6073 wrote:
Seen/downloaded this - Hollowgram SL Crankset Owners Manual ? I think that typically for the Hollowgram crank, the non-drive side crankarm is installed and torqued first then once installed, for maintenance only the drive side crank arm is removed.


Thank you. I actually have checked the manual before writing here. And on the photo on page 7 where the spindle is pulled out from the non-drive side there it looks like that the pedal arm sits not completely bottomed out on the spindle .I just wanted to be sure if there is an issue with a brand new item before torquing it to the given Nm. So it looks like there is nothing wrong with our crank set .On the other hand I am curious to know why the flower splined edge of the spindle has been designed longer than needed? Or am I mistaken and the crank arm will slide fully onto the flower splined edge when torqued correctly?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:11 pm 
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It's not longer than needed,the spline iss some sort of conical, so when you torque it will not move or slide.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:41 am 
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pholcus wrote:
It's not longer than needed,the spline iss some sort of conical, so when you torque it will not move or slide.


Thank you.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:15 am
Posts: 108
So my lbs just tried to instal my hollowgram sisl on my new 2012 felt f1 and they are telling me that it will not fit. Something to do with not enough space or too much. Has anyone heard of the CH SISL not working on certain BB30 frames?

I am hoping that there is some kind of solution here, other than getting a new crank! Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:03 am 
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Shop Owner

Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1980
Location: NoVA/DC
it might be that the frame bulges out slightly from the 68mm width around the crank spider area. if that is the case, then something to offset the crank will help- srm specific bearing shield or srm-offset spindle. look at cannondaleexperts.com.
if it's anything else, we need pics.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:15 am
Posts: 108
Appreciate it! I am going to head into the shop tomorrow and get the specifics. I have found numerous pics online of F1's with the CH SISL SRM, so maybe that will solve it. I will repost tomorrow. Thanks again


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:19 am
Posts: 879
Anyone else with info on this? I'd like to know if the Hollowgram fits before making a potential purchase.

The troubles I've seen have come from F1 owners (I believe the spindles have been too short) - I'm wondering if this is just due to the carbon bb design on the F1 or if I should still expect to run into clearance issues on my F3 (aluminum bb sleeve)


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 11:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2010 1:04 pm
Posts: 66
Imaking20 wrote:
Anyone else with info on this? I'd like to know if the Hollowgram fits before making a potential purchase.

The troubles I've seen have come from F1 owners (I believe the spindles have been too short) - I'm wondering if this is just due to the carbon bb design on the F1 or if I should still expect to run into clearance issues on my F3 (aluminum bb sleeve)



I am currently running a Hollowgram SRM on my 2011 FC with no clearance issues. However, this is with the SRM spindle and NDS bearing shield. I tried with the standard spindle and shield and it was too tight so I swapped to the SRM specific parts and it worked perfectly.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Australia
Seeking assistance - installing new Hollowgram (SiSL) on Supersix. The issue I have is with the DS crank, I can't get anywhere near the torque required and the wavy washer is compressed. In using only the washer (no plastic spacers) I can probably get it close to 25nm, but again the washer is pretty flat. There is no play in the cranks, and they spin well (it's not binding). I tried using multiple plastic spacers (shims) but this actually works in reverse, i.e washer compresses far earlier when tightening. I'm sure it's something basic I'm missing, but cannot find anything in the installation manual or on the boards as to the procedure when this occurs? (most people seem to have the opposite issue).


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